What method is used to remove air from a water loop?
What method is used to remove air from a water loop?
Hello Everyone,
I want to start by apologizing, as I’m aware there are many discussions here about similar issues, but none have really solved my current problem.
I’m a fairly skilled PC builder, but this is my first time setting up a complete water cooling system. Previously, I used factory sealed CPU coolers, but this is the first time I’ve been working with a full set of components.
The main issue is that air is stuck inside my water loop and I haven’t been able to remove it. So I think it’s time to look more closely at the setup.
Here’s what I have: a Corsair Carbide Air 540 case, an ASRock Z87 Extreme9/AC motherboard, an Intel i7 4770K CPU, a Phobia UC-2 LT CPU water block, two XMP R9 290X GPUs with XSPC water blocks, one XSPC EX240 Rad, one XSPC EX360 Rad, and an XSPC D5 Photon 170 pump combo.
Because of the case configuration, I’ve arranged my loop in this order: XSPC Res/Pump Combo → XSPC EX240 Rad → CPU water block → first GPU → second GPU → XSPC EX360 Rad.
I’ve attached a photo of the Res/Pump in the back of the case, a close-up of the flow rate indicator (which is completely still), and a view of the front side showing the tube from the Res/Pump leading to the XSPC EX240 Rad.
Additionally, I have a picture of the tube from the XSPC EX240 rad going into the Phobia UC-2 LT CPU water block, and another showing the outlet of the CPU water block into the first GPU water block.
The second GPU water block is connected via an SLi/Crossfire water bridge, and the tube from that second GPU goes into the XSPC EX360 Rad.
This image shows the tube exiting the rear of the EX360 Rad and into the back of the case, leaving the XSPC EX360 Rad.
Another photo is of the tube from the EX360 Rad entering the rear of the case and moving towards the front side, where it connects to the XSPC EX240 Rad.
There’s also a quick-release fitting on the rear of the case, which I’ve used to make draining easier.
Lastly, two quick-release fittings are joined together and connected to the flow rate meter.
I’ve read many threads, but none have helped clear the air in my loop. Trying to shake it side to side, from front to back, or upside down hasn’t made a difference. Some bubbles have moved, but there are still big air pockets that won’t come out.
I’m curious if it’s because of how I’ve arranged the water loop.
So far, the pump has been running for several hours and I’ve tried all the suggested fixes, but nothing seems to work.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks a lot.
If your pump operates smoothly and quietly, with visible flow when the PC is idle, it suggests everything is functioning properly. When you tilt the pump, air intake increases and cavitation occurs, which likely causes the speed up, whining, and noise. This kind of noise and cavitation can harm the pump. Your reservoir is adequately sized, so it’s still advisable to refill it and let the system run for a day or a week. The issue should resolve on its own. If you had a T-line without a reservoir, bleeding would be more critical—otherwise, a large bubble reaching the pump could stop flow or trigger serious cavitation. This isn’t a major concern in your situation.
I haven't assembled a water-cooling loop myself, but I've been going through many guides. I've been preparing a parts list for roughly four months and studying a lot of material before choosing components and starting construction in March or April. I'm pretty sure I've seen suggestions about adding a few drops of dish soap to help remove air bubbles (though I'm not sure the exact amount). It might be better for readers to have a clearer overall image of the entire loop, and drawing circles could indicate trapped air... or maybe there are just too many bubbles everywhere?
Start the loop and let it operate. Over time, the water movement will expel the air. Water loops aren’t ideal vertical paths where water rises from the bottom and pushes air upward; instead, they create twists, turns, and downward sections that attempt to trap air. But if you let it run, they’ll eventually be forced through.
You won’t be able to remove the micro bubbles permanently—at least it’s not worth trying. I used the same loop on my i792 for five years. Whenever I powered it off for a day, small air pockets formed at the highest points in my tubing and CPU. After turning it back on, I’d see those bubbles being pushed out into the reservoir, only to reappear in the same spots the next time.
If your system has good flow, it won’t cause noise and you won’t overheat. Just let it run; the loop will naturally reach balance.
A very nice-looking loop, but one adjustment would be to increase the 240 rad between the CPU and GPU water blocks. This would help keep the water flowing to the GPU as cool as possible.
dave85uk :
I've not built a water cool loop myself but I have been reading lots of guides as I've been making a Loop parts list for about 4 months now and readings lots of material before I select my parts and start building in March/April, however....
I'm pretty sure I have read in a couple of places that a few drops of washing up liquid helps clear out air bubbles (actually not sure how much).
It may be more beneficial for readers for a overall/clearer pic of the entire loop, and drawing circles were the air is getting trapped... or is there just a lot of bubbles everywhere?
Hey Dave, thanks for the reply. Whilst trying to dislodge stubborn air pockets I have noticed that the main pockets hover around the top mounted radiator, CPU Block and between the 2nd GPU and front mounted radiator. They are quite large in terms of air pockets, in fact when I tilt and shake the case about I can almost empty the tube running from the top mounted radiator to the CPU block, or the tube running from the CPU to the 1st GPU, or the tube running from the 2nd GPU to the front mounted radiator.
The line coming out of the front mounted radiator to the inlet of the res/pump is always full, there is never any air pockets trapped in this area. Bubbles/Air travel through this tube and get absorbed into the res (which is how it is supposed to work), but clearing the rest has proven more difficult.
In my limited experience I tend to think that air pockets are trapped in the radiators, but it is only a guess. I will work on some better pics and an actual diagram of my system setup to show component location and flow direction. As you indicated, this may assist others in problem solving my loop issues.
Thanks again.
Adjust the loop and let it operate. Over time, the water movement will naturally expel the air. Water loops aren't ideal vertical setups where water rises from the base and pushes air upward; instead, they tend to create twists and drops that trap air. However, once you let it run, the air will eventually be expelled.
You won't be able to remove the micro bubbles permanently... or it's not worth the effort. I experienced the same issue with my i792 for five years—every time I powered it off, small air pockets formed at the highest points in my tubing and CPU. After restarting the loop, I'd see those bubbles pushed into the reservoir but end up back in the same spots.
If your system has good flow, it shouldn't cause noise or overheating, so just let it run. It should balance itself naturally.
Your loop looks great. The only improvement I'd suggest is adjusting the 240 rad between the CPU and GPU water blocks to ensure efficient cooling for the GPU.
Thanks for the feedback, BC. I'll test it out and keep it running. Since I've left it on for several hours after finishing the loop, I'll monitor how it performs.
Also, I didn't mention earlier that I'm using EK-Ekoolant (Clear) instead of distilled water. It was already treated, so I avoided adding extra treatment to prevent bacterial growth. I'm curious if this change makes a difference, but I thought it was worth noting.
I've not constructed a water cooling loop myself, but I've been studying many guides. I've been compiling a parts list for roughly four months now and reviewing a lot of material before choosing components and starting the build in March or April.
I've heard from a few sources that a little bit of dish soap can help remove air bubbles (though I'm not sure about the exact amount). It might be more useful for a clear overall image of the loop, showing where bubbles are trapped... or maybe there are just too many bubbles everywhere.
Hey Dave, thanks for your response. While trying to free stubborn air pockets, I've noticed the main bubbles are around the top radiator, CPU block, and between the second GPU and front radiator. They're pretty big—when I tilt or shake the case, it seems like the tube from the top radiator to the CPU block, or from CPU to the first GPU, or from the second GPU to the front radiator can be almost emptied.
The tube leading from the front radiator to the pump inlet is always clear, with no air pockets there. Bubbles move through this tube and get absorbed into the reservoir, which is how it should work. Clearing the rest has been tougher.
In my experience, I think air pockets are mostly in the radiators, but that's just a guess. I plan to take better photos and create a diagram of my setup to show where each part goes and how the air flows. Your suggestion could really help others with their loop problems.
Thanks again. Do your radiators have an air bleed screw? My unit has a small one on the non-barbed end—it's designed so the barbs go in at the bottom and the screw lets you release air from the top.
I've not constructed a water cooling loop myself, but I've been studying many guides. I've been compiling a parts list for roughly four months now and have reviewed a lot of materials before choosing my components and starting the build in March/April.
I'm fairly certain I've come across advice suggesting a few drops of dish soap can help remove air bubbles (though I'm not sure the exact amount).
It might be more useful for viewers to see a complete, clear image of the entire loop. Drawing circles could indicate trapped air, or perhaps there are just too many bubbles everywhere?
Thanks for your response.
I've noticed that the main air pockets tend to gather around the top-mounted radiator, CPU block, and between the second GPU and front-mounted radiator. They're quite noticeable—when I tilt or shake the case, it seems like the tube from the top radiator to the CPU block, or from the CPU to the first GPU, or from the second GPU to the front radiator can be nearly emptied.
The tube leading from the front-mounted radiator to the inlet of the reservoir or pump is consistently clear, with no trapped air. Bubbles move through this tube and are absorbed into the reservoir, which is the intended function. Clearing the rest remains challenging.
Based on my experience, I believe air pockets are mostly confined to the radiators. It's just a hypothesis. I plan to take better photos and create a diagram of my setup to clearly show component positions and airflow. Your suggestion could really help others with their loop problems.
Thanks again.
I've not constructed a water cooling loop myself, but I've been going through many guides. I've been preparing a parts list for roughly four months now and reviewing a lot of materials before choosing components and starting to build in March/April. However... I've come across a few suggestions that a small amount of dish soap can help remove air bubbles (though I'm not sure the exact amount).
It might be more useful for viewers to get a clearer overall image of the entire loop. If air is getting stuck, it could be around the top-mounted radiator, CPU block, or between the second GPU and the front-mounted radiator. The tubes running from the top radiator to the CPU block, from the CPU to the first GPU, and from the second GPU to the front radiator are usually free of trapped bubbles. The outlet tube from the front radiator always stays full, with no air pockets present. Bubbles pass through this tube and are absorbed into the reservoir, which is the intended function. Clearing the rest remains challenging.
In my experience, air seems to be trapped in the radiators, but that's just a guess. I plan to take better photos and create a diagram of my setup to show where each component is located and how the air flows. Your feedback would be helpful in solving my loop problems.
Thanks again.
Do your radiators have an air bleed screw? My unit has a small one on the non-barbed end (it's designed so the barbs go in at the bottom and the screw lets you release air from the top).
Unfortunately, they are XSPC EX240 and EX360 radiators and don't seem to have this feature. I originally chose cross-flow models, but they didn't fit well in my system, so I returned to standard radiators.
There aren't many Australian suppliers that offer different brands, most rely on the same wholesaler and have limited options for brand and model selection.
If you were to lay your entire case on its side, would that shift the "inlet barbs" to the bottom and the "outlet barbs" to the top? It should definitely help with the air in your GPU blocks. Use the whole air float method on water to your advantage.
Can you hear the air moving through your pump?
Bonecrushrr :
singo79 :
dave85uk :
I haven't assembled a water cooling loop myself, but I've been going through many guides. I've been compiling a parts list for roughly four months now and have tested various materials before choosing components and starting construction in March/April.
I'm fairly certain I've come across advice suggesting a few drops of dish soap can help remove air bubbles (though I'm not sure the exact amount).
Perhaps it would be more useful for others to see a clearer overall image of the loop, and drawing circles might indicate where air is trapped... or maybe there are just too many bubbles everywhere?
Hey Dave, thank you for your response. While trying to free stubborn air pockets, I've noticed the main bubbles are concentrated around the top-mounted radiator, CPU block, and between the second GPU and front-mounted radiator. They're quite noticeable in terms of air volume. When I tilt or shake the case, it seems the tubes from the top radiator to the CPU block, from the CPU to the first GPU, and from the second GPU to the front radiator all appear to be free of trapped air.
The tube leading from the front radiator to the pump inlet is consistently clear, with no air pockets present. Bubbles pass through this tube and are absorbed into the reservoir, which is the intended function. Clearing the rest remains challenging.
Based on my experience, I believe air pockets tend to collect in the radiators, but this is just an assumption. I plan to take better photos and create a diagram of my setup to clearly show component positions and airflow. Your suggestion could really help others with their loop problems.
Thanks again.
Do your radiators have a small air bleed screw? My unit has one on the non-barbed end (it's positioned so the barbs face down, allowing air to escape through the top).
Unfortunately, my radiators are XSPC EX240 and EX360 models, which don't have this feature. I originally chose cross-flow radiators but they didn't fit well, so I returned to standard models.
There aren't many Australian suppliers that stock different brands; most rely on the same wholesaler and have limited options for brand and model selection.
Would it help if you flipped your entire case? That might shift the inlet barbs down and the outlet barbs up, potentially aiding air release from your GPU blocks?
Using the principle of floating air in water could be beneficial.
Can you hear the air moving through your pump?
The only times I notice loud pump noises are when the case is tilted sideways or at its end, causing the pump to whine slightly and the liquid inside to churn rapidly.
Here are some product links I've purchased:
Res/Pump Combo -
http://www.xs-pc.com/water-pumps/d5-phot...pump-combo
Top Mounted Radiator -
http://www.xs-pc.com/radiators-ex-series...n-radiator
Front Mounted Radiator -
http://www.xs-pc.com/radiators-ex-series...n-radiator
GPU Water Blocks -
http://www.xs-pc.com/waterblocks-gpu/razor-r9-290x-290
CPU Water Block - http://www.computerbase.de/bildstrecke/42788/22/
I hope this gives you a clearer idea of what I'm working with. I'm currently unable to take photos or diagrams due to work commitments, but I'll organize them once I can.