Updating the plastic cover on the 8-pin EPS slot of the motherboard
Updating the plastic cover on the 8-pin EPS slot of the motherboard
The issue is that there’s no visible way to keep the plastic piece firmly attached to the board. It looks like it could easily detach if the CPU power cable were removed.
Is that the correct way the four-pin next to it is linked? Those pins should connect through to the back of the board where they’ll be soldered securely. You’d remove the old pins, then fit the new connector with pins and solder them in place. Note: Make sure you align the connector properly during installation. If you mount it incorrectly, the power cable would be plugged in upside down, causing 12V to become ground and vice versa. Edited January 6 by Spotty
They're secured via friction, even though the EPS/ATX power connectors are significantly more robust than USB 2.0/3.0 connectors, but the principles remain similar. This approach offers a safer, more reliable method. It's the more solid, technically sound choice.
Board photo included. Upon closer inspection, the extra 4-pin side lacks that small opening above the pins, which makes me wonder why it's present. My soldering skills are limited to connecting wires for screen mods in Game Boys, so I’m hesitant to attempt this on a working board. When I gently touch the pins, they feel sturdy—much stronger than those on a fan header. It’s unsettling seeing them exposed.
Speed holes improve performance. /s It might have been a plastic tab offering extra support for the connector that the 4-pin doesn't require, but if so, it didn't make much difference. Reasonable, yet it seems to be the only solution left. You could keep it as is and let the buyer handle it, though you'd likely lose some value.
This product is a 8-pin power male connector with transparent white casing.
As long as it’s not a frequently moved LAN rig, I don’t have much concern. The EPS connector will secure the pins, the main issue is the absence of a clip, so you depend on friction to keep it in place. If you’re overly anxious, there’s always the reliable "zip it onto whatever’s nearest and apply the right tension." Just like in life, using zip ties properly really makes a difference.
You're all set by simply moving the original header back. It should remain attached to your CPU 8 pin plug. The small hole near the header is likely a special design element, probably designed to secure the plastic casing and prevent it from being pulled out when connecting or disconnecting components. This feature seems intended for flow soldering purposes, helping keep the header in place during the process and reducing manufacturing issues.
The header you're using is a Molex Mini Fit Jr 5566 series, specifically the white version tailored for EPS 8 pins. You can find the original part here: [Molex 0039281083](https://www.digikey.com/en/products/deta...1083/61407). A comparable model for PCI-E 8 pins exists, though with a different part number and keying.
The connector fitting your plug is the Molex Mini Fit Jr 5577, which matches the EPS 8 pin specification. For reference, similar versions are available from other brands such as TE/AMP and AMP VAL-U-LOK. However, most manufacturers source their headers from Asian suppliers or lesser-known companies, like JMT or WST, which may not always list exact part numbers online.