Unusual USB Problem
Unusual USB Problem
I'm dealing with an odd USB issue. One of my two USB 3.0 front panel ports isn't functioning correctly, while the other works perfectly. The non-working port can charge my phone but won't show any data from a USB drive. Both ports are connected to the same connector that fits into the motherboard's USB 3.2 Gen 1 port. My research suggests this might be a common problem with the Lian Li Lancool 216 case, though no one has shared a fix. One person mentioned changing BIOS settings, but didn't provide instructions. Device Manager shows everything appears normal. I've updated to the latest BIOS and confirmed all USB ports are enabled in BIOS. Any advice would be appreciated.
I experienced a comparable issue. I was able to charge devices needing +5V, but USB memory sticks wouldn't work. During troubleshooting, I discovered one of the data leads connected to the front panel USB socket was damaged—preventing any link to the motherboard. It was a USB2 port, and I successfully re-soldered the wire back onto the socket.
Things to check
Remove the cable from the 19-way motherboard USB 3.2 Gen 1 header and inspect for bent or broken pins. The pins may bend, flatten, or break if the connection isn't handled gently. Note: This 19-way header includes two separate (isolated) USB3 ports...
Which USB port is malfunctioning? How many devices are currently connected?
This: "Both USB ports are connected to a single connector which plugs into the motherboard USB 3.2 Gen 1 connector."
It seems the "single connector" might be a splitter—correct?
One end connects to JUSB3-4 on the motherboard, while the other two ends link to the case's USB ports—correct?
If that’s the case, should I try swapping the dual-end connections between the front case USB ports? Does the issue lie with one end or both ends of the dual connection?"
I had a similar problem. I could still charge devices requiring +5V but couldn't read USB memory sticks. On investigation, I found one of the data leads to the front panel USB socket was broken (not making a connection down to the motherboard). It was USB2 and I managed to solder the wire back on the socket.
Things to check
Unplug the cable from the 19-way motherboard USB 3.2 Gen 1 header and look for bent or broken pins. The pins can become bent over and flattened, or snap off, if you don't insert the cable end carefully. N.B. This 19-way header contains two separate (isolated) USB3 ports.
https://superuser.com/questions/166...-3...broken-pin
If a pin is badly bent, it'll probably break off when you try to straighten it. Only fix I know involves a hot air rework station to remove the broken header and replace with a new one.
Alternatively, it's equally possible the USB socket on the front panel has one or more damaged data pins (the +5V VCC and GND pins are obviously still OK).
https://electronics.stackexchange.c...-if-certain-pins-missing-on-usb-3-0-interface
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_3.0
This is a view into a USB3 Type-A panel mount socket:
Shine a light into the socket and look for bent contacts. You might be able to straighten them with a sharp sewing needle. Best done with the power completely disconnected from the ATX PSU to make sure +5VSB is not present. It's only 5V DC so perfectly safe, but you should avoid shorting out any live pins in the USB plug or socket, to prevent damage to the mobo.
This is a view into a USB3 Type-A cable plug. The four large flat contacts at the front are "USB2". The five smaller contacts deeper inside are what makes it "USB3".
If you have a multimeter, set it to the Ohms range (continuity) and buzz the connections from the front panel sockets through to the other end of the splitter cable. If you find an open-circuit connection, there's not a lot you can do to repair the lead, but at least you'll have found the fault.
If all else fails, buy a new cable from Lian Li, or consider something like this if you can make it fit (not easy).
https://www.amazon.com/XMSJSIY-Moth...pr...el,aps,152&sr=8-1
Hi Ralston, thank you for your response. The exact USB port doesn't matter since they are the same. Typically, there are no USB devices connected on the front panel—they're only needed to read a USB drive or transfer files between a phone or tablet and a computer.
The two USB ports connect to a single connector via cables that run parallel to it. I plan to swap them at the ports to test the situation.
I've also tried using JUSB-4 instead of JUSB-3, but both ports stopped working when either one failed.
Thanks for your time.
Hi Misgar, thank you for your thorough response which clearly required a significant amount of your time.
Your suggestions are helpful and I will take action based on them. It’s possible I might have misaligned one of the pins in the motherboard socket while trying to connect the connector.
The Y cable could be a viable alternative if the issue lies with that cable.
I’ll let you know once I’ve completed the checks. Thank you again!
Misgar, you are right! One pin on my motherboard socket for the USB ports (JUSB3) appears to have broken off. This was probably caused by me while clumsily plugging in the connector. There's another USB 3 header on the MB (JUSB4) but I broke the pins on that as well.
Well, I guess I have to live with one usable USB-3 port out of two. Replacing my motherboard for this isn't going to happen. Not that I need two ports working but it would have been nice on a newly assembled PC (sigh).
Thanks again for your help. I salute your knowledge and experience.
For those who have destroyed their USB3 headers on their motherboard or want to add extra headers there is a solution. You can plug in a PCIe expansion card with 2 internal USB3 headers.
Join the group! Those 19-pin USB headers and matching cables appear to be overly complicated to connect, particularly when the motherboard is hidden inside a case, making it hard to see what you're doing and forcing you to align things precisely. Having experience with aerospace projects where pairs of connectors can cost hundreds or thousands of dollars, you understand the challenges of cheap plugs and sockets that only cost a few cents. See the issues with the +12VHPWR connector design. Investing more might help reduce these problems, but it could also make your products seem unreasonably expensive to buyers.