This setup offers a solid delidding and direct die AIO solution. What are your thoughts?
This setup offers a solid delidding and direct die AIO solution. What are your thoughts?
Hey there, I'm thinking about switching to a different cooling method for my synthetic sun setup. Right now I'm using the Fractal Prisma+ 360 AIO, which works well but struggles with heat spikes and core throttling after startup. I'm curious about alternatives like the Lian Li Galahad II 360 LCD AIO, which some people say prevents cores from slowing down. There are also Direct Die AIOs, like the EK-Nucleus AIO CR360, that claim to handle heat better but require more effort—like delidding. The Intel voltage limits I'm already using help control CPU temperature, but I'm open to a bit of overclock if it means cleaner hwinfo. What do you think? Any recommendations or experiences with these options?
Generally not worthwhile because fixing the CPU can be expensive if done incorrectly. Just tweak the voltage and proceed carefully. Many AIO ads aim to push you toward their products. Unless they use special pumps or fans, the main trade-off is speed versus noise. Upgrading often leads to louder operation. Delidding might help, but only experienced users should tackle it with a high-end CPU.
The situation isn't worth it—the die is now soldered, so direct cooling offers little benefit. It's also much simpler due to the soldering process. Lian Li seems focused on marketing. The best AIOs currently are the Arctic Liquid Freezer 360 and 420, which have stayed at the top for years. Your setup is decent, but the 13900K isn't ideal for heavy heat loads. Try lowering the voltage and it might perform better because it runs cooler and stays efficient. In short, Lian Li is exaggerating; the best AIOs are from Arctic. Consider undervolting your 13th Gen 4K and accept it. Intel's latest chip is poorly optimized.
Did you swap the Intel ILM for a contact frame? Updated on February 3, 2024 by leclod
A contact frame is positioned at your desk but hasn't been placed yet.
It’s already undervolted, and that’s fine. It performs better now. I used to face latency without the adjustment, probably because of core throttling. Once it works smoothly, I’m happy. I was aiming for a higher clock speed but ended up with 6GHz max and around 4.8GHz average when using the undervolt. With the board voltages and the synthetic silicon hitting close to 100, it reaches 6.2GHz and averages 5.2GHz. The temperature stability and consistency make me prefer running at a lower speed for better performance instead of chasing higher numbers. This was a strategy idea. That’s why I reached out to you about the marketing message.
Which option is correct? (TR means tighten the screws, not too much)
I was confident during the first attempt, tightened properly and felt only brief beeps—normal. The second time I mounted it again, I was more cautious. Now I’m concerned; I got just single long beeps instead of the usual short ones. It seems mounting once might compress the foam between the frame and the speaker, raising tension for the next try. So I removed all screws a quarter turn and now I get either short or long beeps unpredictably. Otherwise it works fine. (Note: I suggest buying a speaker cheaply on Aliexpress and adding tape to control volume.) Edited February 3, 2024 by leclod