These clock speeds appear to be quite low.
These clock speeds appear to be quite low.
You currently have no restrictions on power limits, so overheating is likely unless you use strong cooling. Your CPU can reach up to 220 watts before hitting the 220PPT cap. Using a negative curve optimizer will maximize performance by reducing voltage at specific frequencies, letting it run faster on standard voltages. Control your PPT until temperatures stay within safe ranges. There’s a threshold where CPUs consume more power for minor gains in speed—lowering PPT can improve temps significantly without hurting scores. Your EDC remains high even with unlimited settings, which helps keep temperatures lower than PPT but less so than lowering PPT itself. Reduce it to 190 or below and monitor both temps and performance; you should find a comfortable balance.
Alright, I've run some extra tests now. I can push it up to -25, but at -30 it drops about 3-400 MHz compared to the other side. Adjusting the curve down by 5 until it stopped worked out was 20. Then I set the limits at 200/130/130 and it repeated the same issue. One side is clearly behind the other. I pushed the curve even further, setting the limits to 200/200/215-15 to keep both sides matching the same speed, but still one runs slower. No matter what curve I use, the voltages stay pretty consistent. The only changes come from extra heat and a tiny speed boost. Looking at the HWInfo stats, one of the CPUs is running 6-12 degrees hotter than the other. That’s a big deal. Basically, this Ryzen chip has a weak side. For temperatures, when I boot up my PC it hits 60-68°C and idles at 40-50°C. I’ve tested multiple coolers—Dark Rock Pro 4, Kraken X63, NH-D15—and they all show similar temps. So, I guess I’ll just let this CPU run with the default settings and think about whether spending more on a Ryzen is worth it.
Just using a standard heat sink—it's disappointing. I notice the same spikes between Cxx 1+2 too. With our 3-year warranty, just unplug the fans and let it run. To be honest, when I bench, I flip a switch and hundreds of CFM flow through my case. High performance and silence rarely go together.
The voltage displayed for SC and MC in Cinebench is typically around 120V or 240V depending on your region. Just checking to see what you observe!
when you play, the frequency tends to stay around 3.7 to 3.9 ghz, with occasional brief jumps to about 4.3 to 4.6 ghz. it doesn't hold steady for long before dropping back to the lower range again. this pattern keeps repeating. are you seeing a higher clock speed during gaming?
The numbers between the CCDs are typical. The best-performing chip tends to get more stress and uses more power often. An A-20 allcore curve looks decent, so it seems you didn’t hit a faulty unit. No one really reaches the peak boost consistently. It’s just an effect shown in the “maximum” section of HWinfo. Your sustained rates should be better with PBO + CO than with stock settings. Make sure your BIOS and Ryzen Master are set to default, then adjust only PBO + CO. Changing voltage too much will likely hurt your scores. Usually EDC should be higher than TDC, which helps stabilize performance. Consider using an EDC of 160 or 180. Keep an eye on maximum temperature by tweaking PPT or TDC—they both limit total power draw similarly. Ensure thermal throttling isn’t affecting results. Your motherboard is fairly basic for someone aiming at maximum overclocking on a Ryzen 9. You’re probably within 1–3% of the potential, though the final result depends heavily on patience. There’s a lot of confusion online, so some frustration might stem from missing proper guidance. I suggest checking detailed tutorials on PBO 2.0 and Zen3 overclocking. Based on what you’re experiencing, it seems your issue likely comes from a configuration setting rather than a defective CPU. You should be able to exceed 4GHz during games unless your GPU is capped by the 5900x. What core frequency do you have at stock settings, and what wattage does it consume?