There is an unusual issue where the new system fails to boot into the BIOS.
There is an unusual issue where the new system fails to boot into the BIOS.
The policy doesn't match the actions being taken. Additionally, retailers are eager to dismiss RMA requests.
A few years ago, there was a DOA case involving Steve from GamersNexus. He demonstrated how Newegg handles its business, which gained significant attention.
The first video:
You can watch it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fnXsmXzphI
A follow-up version is available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CL-eB_Bv5Ik
There are more videos covering this story on the GamersNexus channel if you're interested.
In summary, Steve's situation wasn't unique in highlighting potential issues with Newegg's handling of CPU socket damage claims. His case was particularly impactful as it illustrated how unreliable Newegg can be.
Your problem seems quite confusing. With PC hardware, it only requires the CPU, motherboard, and one stick of RAM to successfully POST and enter BIOS (the PSU is also needed to power it). Once you can enter BIOS, the PC generally works well. You might want to try using a CPU without the non-F suffix, so you don't need a dedicated GPU in the system and instead connect the monitor directly to the motherboard. This could reduce potential failures. At this stage, I would consider using a second CPU with an integrated GPU, such as a Pentium G7400 or Celeron 6900, which doesn't need to be powerful for testing.
So I had it installed by the person, and he managed to get it working perfectly every time, even overnight. When I brought it back home and tried it again now, the same issue appeared. I suspect it might be related to the outlet I’m using, since I live in a house built in the 1920s. I checked the outlet with a multimeter—neutral to hot was around 120 as expected. Then I tested ground to neutral, which came back about 15, which is unusual. I also checked neutral to hot and got similar results when it should be 120. I examined the outlet and saw that the ground wire was connected to the metal box, which I’m not an electrician. I tried connecting the ground directly to the outlet, but nothing changed much. I realized recently that the plugs in my room used to have two prongs, but either I or my dad installed a three-prong outlet. This made me think you should use a GFCI outlet if you’re changing from two to three prongs. I tried that too and still had no improvement. When I spoke with the person who sold me the PC, I mentioned the ground-to-neutral reading issue. He explained that somewhere along the circuit, a neutral isn’t making proper contact with the outlet, which is causing this reading. My next step is to inspect all the outlets on the breaker panel in my room. I don’t know much about electrical wiring, but I’m wondering if this could be the root cause. It seems like there’s really only one possible explanation at this point.
I'm not an electrician, so I can't offer any insights on electricity grid matters.
Engaging a licensed electrician would likely assist in identifying the underlying issue.
Alright, this 5 month long technological torture session is over, and the solution was the stupidest thing ever. I brought my PC to my gfs house to test it out on her outlets, and when I plugged it in, it kept giving me the same issue as always. Then the only variable left was the monitor, and since I'm building her a new PC, I decided to try out her monitor and dp cable. And it worked perfectly fine. Then I tried my monitor and her dp cable, and it work perfectly fine. The whole time it was the dp cable. I didn't even think of it because the cable worked with my old system, so I have no clue why it doesn't work with the new system, but I don't really care. I'm just glad it's finally over lmao