The PC setup will start the fans yet fails to activate the motherboard indicators and cannot shut down.
The PC setup will start the fans yet fails to activate the motherboard indicators and cannot shut down.
Hello, this is my first time setting up a PC, so I apologize if it seems a bit odd.
I just put together my system and tried to turn it on. All the fans are active—both the case fans and the AIO radiator fans, along with their ARGB lighting—but there are no LEDs on the motherboard (including the QLEDs that help with boot troubleshooting). There’s also no signal from the screen; my monitor is connected to the motherboard via HDMI, and I haven’t plugged in a separate GPU just yet.
Interestingly, the PC powers on with the power button on the case, but it only shuts off when I turn off the PSU switch. If I quickly flip the PSU switch back on after a few seconds, the fans resume immediately without needing to press the power button again. However, if I wait 30 seconds between shutting it off and turning it back on, the fans don’t turn back on until I press the power button.
All fans are connected through the fan/ARGB controller hub that came with the Be Quiet cooler.
Previous troubleshooting steps:
- Verified processor is correctly seated (no changes made)
- Removed all memory and tried booting without it (no change)
- Confirmed ATX power connector is firmly connected to the motherboard
- Hopefully, this will all work!
Hardware details:
- MSI AB50GL PCIE5 850W PSU
- Asus Tuf Gaming Motherboard B650-Plus
- AMD 7900x processor
- 2 x M2 PCI 4 SSDs (4GB each), one in slot 1, another in slot 2
- Be Quiet! Pure Loop 2 FX AIO
- 2 x 16GB Kingston Fury Renegade DD5 6400Mhz (removed)
- Montech AirX ARGB case
Any suggestions or guidance for further troubleshooting would be appreciated. Feel free to ask if you need more details.
Welcome to the forums, newcomer!
2 x 16Gb Kingston Fury Renegade DD5 6400Mhz Dimms (in sockets 1 and 3 initially, but currently removed)
Are you referring to slots labeled A2 and B2?
Check the CPU socket on the motherboard for any bent or damaged pins. For your AIO setup, attempt to release the mounting pressure on the AIO and observe if it improves system boot.
First, I would carefully verify that all wiring from the front panel power switch and I/O panel is correctly installed. This step is simple, but it helps prevent mistakes, especially if you're not familiar with these connections. Alternatively, you could completely remove everything from the front panel and then proceed, which would help confirm whether the issue lies with the front panel or a connection error.
Thank you for your message. I appreciate the effort, but I wasn’t very clear about what was happening. I attempted A2 and B2 levels, tried one DIMM in A2, and even no DIMMs at all. I checked the AM5 socket thoroughly—everything appears fine. Also, I tried without the cooler fitted, but nothing changed.
Also, ensure you have TRIPLE checked EVERYTHING here.
This checklist contains troubleshooting steps gathered from various forum members. It's crucial to follow each step carefully if you aim to resolve your issue effectively.
"No POST", "system won't boot", and "no video output" troubleshooting checklist
This document consolidates advice from multiple forum users.
So the front wiring looks good to me, as do the pins on the processor.
I think I’ve found the problem though. I’d plugged In the ATX power connector but not the CPU one, which is on the top left and I’d hidden it behind my AIO radiator! (Newb error!). I plugged that in and it now powers up the motherboard, gets stuff on screen, and will power off as expected when I press the case power button.
In addition to the 8 pin CPU power connector, there‘s a 4 pin one just to the left of it (extreme top left of the motherboard). I don’t think ai have any 4 pin connectors for my modula power supply. do you Know what that power connector is for, and whether it is essential?
Thanks
The additional four-pin connector is usually only required when using the highest TDP processors or performing significant overclocking. For most processors, moderate overclocking is sufficient and the extra connector isn't necessary. Many power supplies, particularly older models, lack EPS connectors beyond the standard 4+4, whereas yours includes one. There are no four-pin EPS/CPU connectors available; only 4+4 connectors exist, loosely assembled in the center and prone to breaking into separate four-pin units if you choose to install it. Adding it won't cause harm and may help prevent issues with your 7900x when using Precision boost overdrive (PBO) in the BIOS, which is typically enabled by default.
My cables aren't exactly ideal - they're two rows of four pins and can't be separated. I might order a single 4-pin one from Amazon if needed. My PC is working properly with the built-in video, and I can also start up using the Gigabyte 4070 card connected via its PCI slot, even though it doesn't have a power connector. The RGB lights up on the card, but it just displays colors without doing much else. Still, the motherboard video remains functional. However, if I connect the card's power connector and try to power it up, it won't work. Even after removing the card or unplugging it completely, it still doesn't start. I was concerned it might be permanently damaged, but eventually I managed to get it back online by adjusting the power connections. It's frustrating because the PC is fine in everyday tasks but struggles heavily with games using the onboard graphics.
Yes they are. All "8 pin EPS" connectors are "separable". There are none that don't fit this rule. It's a required standard. There are no exceptions to this policy that I know of. This has remained consistent since at least 14 years ago.