F5F Stay Refreshed Hardware Desktop The new motherboard lacks SATA ports, so you need an alternative connection method.

The new motherboard lacks SATA ports, so you need an alternative connection method.

The new motherboard lacks SATA ports, so you need an alternative connection method.

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FironeX
Junior Member
44
01-16-2016, 02:38 AM
#11
a few cables could be extra or daisy-chained, connecting only where intended—just make sure they’re meant to receive or send power. The motherboard manual can guide you on front header connectors from the case if you haven’t installed them yet.
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FironeX
01-16-2016, 02:38 AM #11

a few cables could be extra or daisy-chained, connecting only where intended—just make sure they’re meant to receive or send power. The motherboard manual can guide you on front header connectors from the case if you haven’t installed them yet.

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DanielEmpire
Posting Freak
781
01-17-2016, 05:22 AM
#12
It depends on the setup, but inserting a 3 into a 4-unit configuration might not fit well.
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DanielEmpire
01-17-2016, 05:22 AM #12

It depends on the setup, but inserting a 3 into a 4-unit configuration might not fit well.

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168
01-17-2016, 03:59 PM
#13
The 3-pin remains functional since lowering the voltage reduces its energy output, slowing its rotation.
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Dolphinpokemon
01-17-2016, 03:59 PM #13

The 3-pin remains functional since lowering the voltage reduces its energy output, slowing its rotation.

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puffyshadow8
Member
156
01-22-2016, 03:21 PM
#14
Sure, I'm here to help. What are you referring to?
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puffyshadow8
01-22-2016, 03:21 PM #14

Sure, I'm here to help. What are you referring to?

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Bassksksk
Junior Member
10
01-30-2016, 06:56 PM
#15
Review the documentation that came with your case, along with the motherboard manual. Your setup likely includes several fans, and for ease, a cable was added to link them into one fan connector—especially if the buyer might have a motherboard lacking sufficient header pins. In the image, you’ll see four connectors: two with only two pins, a red connector with four pins, and a black connector with three pins. Each connector has specific roles: ground (negative), voltage (+12V), a 3-speed sensor (indicates fan speed), and a PWM signal (tells the motherboard how fast to spin). The top two headers seem meant for pairing two case fans that don’t require speed control via PWM, using either two- or three-pin connectors. The lower pair connects two fans that can be managed with PWM, featuring a fourth pin for speed adjustment per fan. If a fan lacks PWM support or if you use a two- or three-pin connector, the PWM signal is ignored and the fan runs at full speed continuously. You don’t need these extra connectors—simply remove them if fans are directly connected to the motherboard. The RGB headers in the previous photo have rounded pins; check the manual for the compatible RGB standard, which will list supported connector types.
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Bassksksk
01-30-2016, 06:56 PM #15

Review the documentation that came with your case, along with the motherboard manual. Your setup likely includes several fans, and for ease, a cable was added to link them into one fan connector—especially if the buyer might have a motherboard lacking sufficient header pins. In the image, you’ll see four connectors: two with only two pins, a red connector with four pins, and a black connector with three pins. Each connector has specific roles: ground (negative), voltage (+12V), a 3-speed sensor (indicates fan speed), and a PWM signal (tells the motherboard how fast to spin). The top two headers seem meant for pairing two case fans that don’t require speed control via PWM, using either two- or three-pin connectors. The lower pair connects two fans that can be managed with PWM, featuring a fourth pin for speed adjustment per fan. If a fan lacks PWM support or if you use a two- or three-pin connector, the PWM signal is ignored and the fan runs at full speed continuously. You don’t need these extra connectors—simply remove them if fans are directly connected to the motherboard. The RGB headers in the previous photo have rounded pins; check the manual for the compatible RGB standard, which will list supported connector types.

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Ceriana51
Member
65
02-04-2016, 08:06 AM
#16
Hello, you encountered an error message while trying to open your PC. FTPM or PSP likely refers to a file format or software setting. Check the documentation for more details or try restarting your system. If the issue persists, consult technical support.
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Ceriana51
02-04-2016, 08:06 AM #16

Hello, you encountered an error message while trying to open your PC. FTPM or PSP likely refers to a file format or software setting. Check the documentation for more details or try restarting your system. If the issue persists, consult technical support.

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AlbyKursal
Junior Member
49
02-04-2016, 02:30 PM
#17
Yet press Y to reset fTPM fTPM is Trusted Module Platform... it's either a chip on the motherboard or it's inside the processor as a secure area of memory, storing secure cryptographic keys that can encrypt drive contents. The motherboard reports this is its first detection of the processor, and warns that the secure memory isn't ready for encryption if you opt to use it. Choose yes to initialize, then in BIOS you can turn on encryption (unlikely necessary). Pressing N will prevent fTPM initialization, which might block Windows 11 installation (uncertain if TPM is still required today).
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AlbyKursal
02-04-2016, 02:30 PM #17

Yet press Y to reset fTPM fTPM is Trusted Module Platform... it's either a chip on the motherboard or it's inside the processor as a secure area of memory, storing secure cryptographic keys that can encrypt drive contents. The motherboard reports this is its first detection of the processor, and warns that the secure memory isn't ready for encryption if you opt to use it. Choose yes to initialize, then in BIOS you can turn on encryption (unlikely necessary). Pressing N will prevent fTPM initialization, which might block Windows 11 installation (uncertain if TPM is still required today).

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G3tMyWombo_
Junior Member
3
02-05-2016, 01:41 AM
#18
Hello, I have a follow-up query. The system keeps restarting into BIOS despite having Windows installed and your SSD set as the boot priority. Could you clarify what might be causing this issue?
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G3tMyWombo_
02-05-2016, 01:41 AM #18

Hello, I have a follow-up query. The system keeps restarting into BIOS despite having Windows installed and your SSD set as the boot priority. Could you clarify what might be causing this issue?

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gluonic
Member
234
02-05-2016, 02:54 AM
#19
If your system can handle speeds above 4800 Mhz, turn on EXPO on the left side of the screen beneath the RAM status. Pick a frequency that matches your RAM modules or let the BIOS select the optimal setting automatically. If EXPO isn’t active, the memory might run at its standard speed, which is secure but less efficient. After enabling it, the computer may need up to several minutes to boot if you do so, as the BIOS will test the RAM with various patterns to ensure stability. Once trained, the BIOS saves this data, so future starts will be quicker. Beyond that, I’m unsure why it continues looping in the BIOS—possibly due to a missed key press during startup or an accidental F2/DEL activation. Set your system clock and date correctly, since some programs may behave poorly with incorrect time settings. If the clock resets daily to January 1st, consider replacing the CR2032 battery on the motherboard or verifying that no jumper is active for BIOS reset. Ensure the battery stays firmly in place during transport—press it gently and confirm it’s seated properly. For more details, refer to page 15 of the ASUS documentation, which shows the motherboard layout and highlights CLRTC at position 13. Avoid touching those pins, as they can reset both settings.
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gluonic
02-05-2016, 02:54 AM #19

If your system can handle speeds above 4800 Mhz, turn on EXPO on the left side of the screen beneath the RAM status. Pick a frequency that matches your RAM modules or let the BIOS select the optimal setting automatically. If EXPO isn’t active, the memory might run at its standard speed, which is secure but less efficient. After enabling it, the computer may need up to several minutes to boot if you do so, as the BIOS will test the RAM with various patterns to ensure stability. Once trained, the BIOS saves this data, so future starts will be quicker. Beyond that, I’m unsure why it continues looping in the BIOS—possibly due to a missed key press during startup or an accidental F2/DEL activation. Set your system clock and date correctly, since some programs may behave poorly with incorrect time settings. If the clock resets daily to January 1st, consider replacing the CR2032 battery on the motherboard or verifying that no jumper is active for BIOS reset. Ensure the battery stays firmly in place during transport—press it gently and confirm it’s seated properly. For more details, refer to page 15 of the ASUS documentation, which shows the motherboard layout and highlights CLRTC at position 13. Avoid touching those pins, as they can reset both settings.

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coolgirl1566
Member
170
02-06-2016, 11:26 PM
#20
I don’t interact with DEL or F2, yet the ASUS logo keeps appearing saying “Press DEL or F2 for BIOS” and it jumps straight to the AMI page without any input. There’s no physical contact with those pins, and I haven’t adjusted the time in BIOS yet. I’m currently using a DiskPart command prompt on the Windows installer page, which prevents me from exiting and returning to BIOS to fix the date and time. I’ll attempt this once the disk cleanup finishes.
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coolgirl1566
02-06-2016, 11:26 PM #20

I don’t interact with DEL or F2, yet the ASUS logo keeps appearing saying “Press DEL or F2 for BIOS” and it jumps straight to the AMI page without any input. There’s no physical contact with those pins, and I haven’t adjusted the time in BIOS yet. I’m currently using a DiskPart command prompt on the Windows installer page, which prevents me from exiting and returning to BIOS to fix the date and time. I’ll attempt this once the disk cleanup finishes.

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