The lost display appeared, and the GPU fans accelerated to maximum speed.
The lost display appeared, and the GPU fans accelerated to maximum speed.
I was checking Discord after playing Rematch for two hours. Suddenly my screen went black and displayed "no display," though I could still hear videos playing and my friends chatting in the background. I observed the GPU fans running at full speed, so I attempted a reboot by holding the power button for five seconds, but the PC wouldn’t shut down. I then unplugged the power supply from both the PSU and the PC. After reconnecting the power, the PC still wouldn’t turn on. It briefly lit up for a millisecond before shutting off again, but it never powered on at all after pressing the power button.
I already have a faulty RAM slot that caused boot issues before, but only after cleaning my PC and removing the RAM. Reseating the RAM resolved the problem. I’ve tried several things so far:
- Removing CMOS for five minutes and reinserting it – failed.
- Re-seating the GPU – didn’t help.
- Tightening the power cables on both the PSU and GPU – no success.
- Switching the power switch on the PSU – the PC turned on briefly for about ten seconds, but then refused to boot and shut off again.
- Taking out the GPU – it seemed to work, as the PC didn’t shut down until I pressed the power button again. The GPU and boot lights came on from the motherboard.
My system details are:
- CPU: i5-10400f
- GPU: MSi RTX 3080 Sea Hawk 10G (second-hand, used for office and gaming)
- Motherboard: Asrock B460M Pro4
- RAM: Two 8GB DDR4 modules, GEIL Evo Potenza and Klevv Value, both at 2666Mhz
- Power Supply: Bitfenix Whisper M 650W 80+ Gold
Well, it won't function properly because your CPU has an F-suffix and lacks an integrated GPU. It's probably an ex-mining GPU that gave up. The seller can lie if needed to close the deal. Try any known working GPU and see if the PC stays on and you can boot into the OS. If it works, your GPU likely failed. For future reference, avoid Intel F-suffix CPUs—since you've had GPU issues, an iGPU inside the CPU might still be usable. Sure, during normal use the iGPU isn't necessary, but in emergencies it can save the day.
Oof, that's really annoying — looks like a hardware problem is likely. Based on what you mentioned, the GPU or PSU seems to be the culprit. The black screen, loud fan noise, and refusal to shut down are typical signs of a GPU failure or short circuit. It’s also notable that it only starts up without the GPU, which confirms the issue.
A few quick actions to consider:
- Try using a different PSU if possible — 650W is quite high for a 3080, particularly if it's older.
- Boot without the GPU to check if the system powers on at all (you won’t see anything, but it can reveal if the board is functional).
- Examine the GPU closely for any signs of damage, overheating, or leaks — especially with the hybrid cooler.
My guess is the GPU. If it was previously used, it might have been in worse condition than stated.
Let me know how it goes — I’ve dealt with this before.
Yes, it's verified. My GPU is nonfunctional. Testing with my brother's RX 6700 XT worked fine for Windows. I won't purchase additional used components again. For a 1440p 144 FPS experience on AAA titles, what would be a comparable or marginally inferior upgrade at a fair cost?
Under 500 USD. I did some research and browsing in my local computer shop website, the options around that price point are 9060 XT 16GB starting at 406 USD, 5060 Ti 16GB at 480 USD, and 7700XT 431 USD. There's also 7800XT, but it's a bit over the budget, cheapest one I can find is 535 USD.
Edit: forgot to add the other GPUs prices
The RX 7800 XT would be the most suitable option in this comparison.
If you opt for a more affordable GPU, you will notice a significant drop in performance.
With hardware, there are two main paths:
1. Purchase from an unreliable source and hope for a decent build at a very low cost.
But buying used comes with its own set of challenges; it’s sold without guarantees and there’s no assurance it will function properly. You’re essentially taking a 50/50 chance—either it works and you get a good deal, or it doesn’t and you end up with nothing more than a useless device. Plus, you’ll spend money and time troubleshooting it later, and there’s no warranty to protect you.
2. Choose a reputable seller, opt for a new unit, receive a warranty, and be confident it will perform as expected while paying fairly.
If it fails, the warranty covers replacement or repair at no cost.
Personally, I don’t have the financial means to buy used hardware, so I prefer to stick with brand new equipment.
The CPU likely limited the performance of the 3080 and it should too for the 7800XT. Considering the power supply, a 9060XT or a 5060ti would probably be better options, even though they might not match the 3080's speed—since having the 16GB version would keep the performance gap manageable.
5070 12GB priced at $550 would be a more straightforward swap for a 3080. A used 4070 Super could work if you're willing to save, though I understand you prefer new, but the 30 series was still common back then. The 40 series is less ideal. The 5060 Ti 16GB at $430 seems overpriced given the benefits. The 9060 XT costs $370, which is reasonable if ray tracing matters. The RX 9070 remains the top option but comes with a steep cost.
5070 12GB is priced at $600 locally. The cheapest 2nd hand 4070 Super I costs around $580, and many ems still have only one year of warranty remaining.