The displays for the MOBO event, including fans and LEDs, will activate, but there won't be any video being shown.
The displays for the MOBO event, including fans and LEDs, will activate, but there won't be any video being shown.
I recently acquired a GTX 1070 and 8GB of DDR4 RAM with a speed of 2666MHz, intending to install them in my existing setup. However, after attempting the installation, the motherboard's fans and LEDs illuminated, yet it failed to produce a video signal. I began investigating the issue, and after numerous attempts, I removed the motherboard from its case and tested with a single RAM stick. Even then, no video output was detected. I have attempted several diagnostic procedures, all performed with the motherboard outside of its case:
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These steps were executed while the motherboard was removed from the case and placed on its original packaging):
1. Verified RAM compatibility, swapping both sticks and alternating the memory channels.
2. Inspected all cables for any looseness, specifically examining the 24-pin and 8-pin connectors.
3. Reset the CMOS by removing the power connector battery for approximately 8-10 minutes, and subsequently using a jumper to reset the CMOS pins for 5-8 seconds.
NOTES: The computer functioned perfectly before adding the new memory and graphics card, but after this installation, I was unable to power down the PC even by holding the power button for over 10 seconds.
Motherboard: Asus B450M-A
RAM: Ballistix Sport 2666 (one 4GB stick and one 8GB stick)
CPU: Ryzen 2200G
PSU: ANTEC High Current Gaming 520M
This is my current hardware configuration.
Let’s try this procedure now, assuming you haven't already done so.
First, take the motherboard out of its case. Then, proceed as follows:
Detach the graphics card.
Connect your monitor to one of the motherboard’s video outputs.
Ensure that the memory modules are placed in slots A2 and B2 – these are the second and fourth slots counting from the CPU socket. Only use these slots.
Remove the CMOS battery for five minutes. While it’s removed, move the clear CMOS jumper to the reset position and hold it there for 30 seconds. After five minutes have elapsed, return the clear CMOS jumper to its original location. If your board lacks a clear CMOS jumper pin but has a clear CMOS button, press that button for 30 seconds instead. Reinstall the CMOS battery.
Turn on the unit and check to see if there’s any improvement. If it successfully displays after using the onboard graphics, power down, repeat the CMOS battery reset procedure as described above, reinstall the graphics card, connect the power cables to the graphics card, move the display cable back to the graphics card output, and then attempt to power on again. If it continues to display the same problem – starting without video output – your graphics card is likely faulty.
Did you observe whether the fans on the graphics card activated, or did any lights illuminate on the graphics card during the previous attempt?
Were you using a different graphics card prior to this installation, or were you relying on the integrated graphics before adding this new one?
How long has your 520W high-current gaming power supply been in use, and how many years has it been operating?
I followed most of your instructions, but I skipped a few of the CMOS reset procedures. I’m utilizing my Ryzen 2200G’s built-in graphics currently. After installing the new graphics card, everything appeared to be functioning correctly – the fans rotated, and the indicator lights on the card illuminated. My power supply unit was operating without problems prior to adding the GPU and new memory, though it has been in service for approximately four years. Previously, I had a GTX 980 and experienced no difficulties until now. I've been running my Ryzen 2200G without an external graphics card for a month, and that operated successfully (though the frame rates were low). Thank you for your quick reply; I plan to retry resetting the CMOS.
Describe your previous recollection in contrast to your current one.
Test each RAM module individually within the A2 slot (the second slot located above the processor), and then restore CMOS settings after each test.
Is the system unresponsive when only using the integrated graphics processor, considering you've installed both new memory and a new graphics card?
Attempt to operate the system with only the original RAM stick you had previously installed, utilizing solely the iGPU and a CMOS reset, to determine if it returns to its initial configuration.
What is the origin of your graphics card and memory? Were they purchased new or used?
Has the CPU ever been removed from the motherboard throughout this entire sequence of events?
My system previously utilized a 4GB stick of Ballistix DDR4 2600, and I recently upgraded to an 8GB 2666 version from the same manufacturer. I’ve tested both memory modules separately in the motherboard's DIMM slots, but I haven’t cleared the CMOS after each test. The new memory isn't cooperating with my integrated graphics processor – I’ve attempted it while using both the new memory and a separate graphics card. I've attempted to return to my original configuration by resetting the CMOS. The graphics card showed minimal signs of wear (based on its appearance), while the memory was entirely new. I greatly value any assistance and sincerely hope this isn't due to a malfunctioning power supply or motherboard. I do not possess another power supply for testing, however, when all components were connected, my two hard drives operated, the case fans spun, the CPU fan activated, the motherboard lights illuminated, and even the graphics card fans and lights powered on.
Can you suggest anyone who possesses a power supply unit of respectable quality, with a minimum capacity of 500 watts, who might be willing to lend it for testing purposes?
The difficulty with diagnosing motherboard issues is that you generally need to rule out other potential causes first.
Since the board is already set up on your workspace, I would also remove the processor and verify that we aren’t facing a bent pin that wasn't an issue when only the integrated graphics were active, but subsequently appeared after trying to utilize a GTX 1070. Were you utilizing the GTX 980 in this same system previously, and if so, what prompted your decision to discontinue its use? Did you begin experiencing problems related to the graphics card’s performance – perhaps it malfunctioned entirely? What led to you ceasing use of that particular card?
I recognize someone, and I believe an 80-plus bronze component should suffice. I haven't applied thermal paste yet because I don’t have any on hand, but I plan to acquire some tomorrow and remove the CPU to examine it for bent pins. Also, my new GTX 1070 feels noticeably heavier than my older GTX 980 – I’ve even considered that the motherboard might have suffered damage from the weight, so I inspected it for any signs of this and haven’t found anything conclusive. I previously utilized the GTX 980 in this exact same setup without encountering any problems; I ceased using it because I was anticipating the arrival of a GTX 1070, and buying the GTX 1070 with the proceeds from selling the GTX 980 felt like a straightforward decision. Unbeknownst to me, something is preferable to nothing at all. Thank you for your assistance; for now, I don't foresee any further actions I can take today, but I intend to obtain a power supply and thermal paste to address all potential issues and reach a final determination.
Bronze, silver, and gold signify efficiency scores—they don’t reflect the overall excellence of a product. Their significance is contingent upon the inherent quality of the underlying platform—such as Seasonic G or Super Flower Leadex – that the power supply is constructed upon. Currently, many high-quality PSUs typically achieve at least Bronze efficiency, with most attaining Gold status. However, numerous units exist that boast impressive efficiency ratings yet possess substandard construction or utilize inexpensive components; these can quickly fail, lose functionality, or be inherently defective.
Fortunately, if your motherboard is faulty, it should remain covered by warranty for a period of five years provided you purchased it new, as ASUS guarantees their motherboards this way. Unfortunately, if your location isn’t serviced by ASUS, obtaining warranty service could involve substantial shipping costs that surpass the motherboard's original price.
Considering your graphics card purchase – did you acquire it from eBay, or elsewhere? I suspect this is the root cause of your dilemma and that the card was already compromised when you bought it, with the seller likely aware of this. It’s conceivable that a faulty card might have damaged your motherboard's PCI circuit. Obviously, it’s also possible that this isn’t the issue—but if a power supply problem is ruled out, I'm uncertain of any alternative explanation beyond a defective board, barring an uncommon CPU pin malfunction.
I purchased the graphics card on eBay; despite appearing well-preserved, my motherboard failed to display video. Fortunately, it’s still covered by warranty, though the claim process will take until September due to my location outside of the United States. Since I’ll be traveling then, I’ll simply postpone the claim, and in the meantime, I’m considering a fast alternative like either the B450 ASRock Steel Legend or the B450 MSI Gaming Plus, with a goal of acquiring a Ryzen 3600.