The computer isn't powering up.
The computer isn't powering up.
Turned my PC on two hours ago and everything functioned properly. After turning it off and back on about 15 minutes later, all fans—CPU and GPU included—spun and lit up. The RAM also activated. My monitor remained in sleep mode but didn’t show a 'no display port signal' until I disconnected it from the PC. The motherboard LED indicated a RAM problem, so I tried reseating it, changed the dimming slots, but nothing resolved it. I unplugged the CPU fan, power supply, all USB devices, removed the GPU and RAM, then reinstalled everything except the USB ports, but the issue persisted. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Try resetting the CMOS. It could be your BIOS RAM settings are broken.
You might need to swap out the CMOS battery since you don’t have another available.
Skip the battery removal and follow this tutorial. https://www.maketecheasier.com/how-to-re...s-and-why/ Should it not work, attempt to start with the iGPU by connecting the DP to the motherboard rather than the GPU (if available). If that fails, reinsert the GPU or inspect its power connectors. If the system powers on and lights up but no display appears, the issue may be with the screen itself.
Yes, you're correct. Both methods aim to reset the BIOS settings, and repeating the CMOS reset can help determine if it resolves the issue.
I experienced a quite similar problem that was erratic (and didn’t immediately show the DRAM indicator) which ultimately confirmed it was RAM-related. Specifically, the RAM I chose wasn’t approved by the board manufacturer’s QVL (Qualified Vendor List). Two distinct sets of kits from the same brand/model/part number led to different problems in three separate configurations. The key point was that none of the boards in these three cases included the exact RAM SKU I used on the QVL. One setup would randomly crash after several reboots, showing no video at every 8-12 cold starts, otherwise it seemed normal. Another consistently showed a glitching hourglass cursor in Windows. These DIMMs were identical to those from the first case. Some would fail to start at all, while others would intermittently cut audio or video after a few weeks. Swapping the RAM in these two situations resolved the issues completely, making everything run smoothly and feeling more responsive. The third was an upgrade I made in 2020 using the same SKU. It was unusual—three changes: RAM, M.2 slot, and GPU. Despite using the same SKU as the previous two, this board would not start at all on a VGA light with the new GPU, but it booted normally with its original configuration. Because of the VGA indicator, I didn’t consider testing the older RAM. After several tries, the board would shut down and needed to be returned for repair. MSI never explained what happened or how they resolved it, which felt quite frustrating. With newer findings, I examined this setup and discovered the DIMMs were responding at different speeds—a behavior that’s unusual and shouldn’t occur. It turned out the RAM wasn’t included in the board’s QVL either, even though manufacturers claim compatibility. Remember, both groups of DIMMs performed well individually and together. Even when I questioned whether the RAM might be the culprit, I was told simply “RAM is RAM, QVL doesn’t matter.” Clearly, that’s not always true. In fact, some RAMs aren’t listed on QVL despite manufacturers insisting they would work. Keep in mind, even when tested separately or together, both types of DIMMs functioned without issues. When I suspected the problem might lie with the RAM, I was surprised to find that it actually did work in a few cases. While there are certainly RAMs not included on QVL, it’s wise not to overlook them just because they’re cheaper or more common. My advice? Always verify your RAM’s SKU against the board’s QVL, considering your processor if relevant. In summary, don’t dismiss anything too quickly—especially when results are inconsistent.
A fun observation: These were AMD systems with two B450 and one B550 boards, running 1700, 3600X, and 5900X processors. The RAM I used wasn’t found on any QVL, and the only person who recognized its SKU mentioned it was ordered for a Coffee Lake build—a chipset generation. I’m beginning to suspect that certain DIMMs are tailored for Intel, while others are tuned for AMD, and using the wrong type can cause trouble. This experience highlights how important it is to double-check compatibility before buying.
Just a thought: RAM isn’t always listed on QVL, even though vendors insist it should be. It’s worth taking the time to confirm, especially if you’re unsure about your board or processor choice. This could save you time, money, and frustration down the line.
Not every situation includes a "CMOS clear" option, and the same applies to motherboards. Often only a few pins are needed, which you must connect with a metal tool or jumper. At that stage, it's usually better and safer to take out the battery—so you avoid any chance of accidentally connecting the wrong contacts. It's less about failure and more about being unable to proceed correctly.