System is unstable overall, but functions properly during gameplay.
System is unstable overall, but functions properly during gameplay.
Here’s the rewritten version:
I remember it all started when I was using Windows 10 with an i7-6700 processor, experiencing random restarts every few minutes after turning on. I considered switching to Windows 11 for better security, but that didn’t make a difference. After that, I performed a clean installation, but nothing changed. I upgraded to a Ryzen 5800X with the same RAM sticks, and still nothing happened. I even tried using Ryzen Master, but I didn’t notice any improvement, so I reset everything. The OS update didn’t affect RAM or CMOS clearing, and it never caused issues during gaming—whether it was PC game pass, Steam, or Ubisoft. Everything seemed to work fine otherwise.
I’m currently running a memory scan and am unsure what to do next. I’ve left Space Engineers open while my PC has been downloading my game library for three days, and that’s completely normal.
Please help me check my emails and stay calm!
When sharing a troubleshooting thread, it's important to provide your complete system details. List them as follows:
CPU:
CPU cooler:
Motherboard:
Ram:
SSD/HDD:
GPU:
PSU:
Chassis:
OS:
Monitor:
Include the age of the PSU along with its make and model. BIOS version for your motherboard at this time.
After an upgrade, we'll compare two sets of specifications—one before and one after.
Where did you obtain the OS installer?
I didn't utilize the performance improvements and reset everything.
It's recommended to reinstall the OS in offline mode, installing all required drivers manually through an elevated command.
I received the official Win11 64 from Microsoft. It isn’t a recovery version and isn’t tailored for my current PC. I didn’t want to interfere with my previous setup software.
The system settings were reset within the program, it was uninstalled, and the CMOS was cleared. As requested:
CPU: 5800x stock (second-hand), originally an i7 6700
CPU cooler: Noctua NH D15 dual 140mm, previous cooler was a basic Intel model I no longer have
Motherboard: x570 Aorus, from B250N Phoenix (both second-hand)
Ram: Crucial 2x 8Gb
SSD/HDD: OS drive, WD blue SATA 500Gb
GPU: Zotac twin edge 4070
PSU: Either an aerocool 750 or newer/Corsair CX 750w, up to 8 years old
Chassis: Phanteks Enthoo Pro 2 Server Edition, 6x 140mm fans
OS: Windows 11 Pro
Monitor: Samsung Neo QN90A TV
I’m uncertain it would be a driver-related problem. I couldn’t easily verify and wouldn’t want to repeat the process just to confirm. During one of the major resets, I think it restarted mid-Windows installation and then stopped. This suggests it might occur before any drivers were installed.
Memtest86 reported clean results after a standard run earlier.
chkdsk on the OS drive and sfc scans showed no issues, even after multiple attempts.
I'm trying with a different PSU this week.
The low draw mode appears to be unstable with this unit rather than due to any software problems. The Windows power profile set to high performance doesn't help. It's getting worse; older games aren't enough to prevent the restarts, now happening much sooner—like 5-10 minutes instead of over 20. I don't want to run the furmark bench test just to use my PC, haha.
Have you considered testing your RAM at the standard JEDEC frequency (typically 2133 or 2400MT/s)?
If you're applying a high XMP overclock beyond the 3200MT/s limit for the 5800X, it might lead to instability.
https://www.techpowerup.com/cpu-specs/ry...800x.c2362
A single MemTest86 run is satisfactory, but an overnight extended test with several passes would be preferable.
If you're using a high XMP setting, lower it to 3000MT/s, try some games, then run MemTest86.
If the system remains stable, raise it back to 3200MT/s and repeat the checks.
Even a single error in MemTest86 suggests reducing XMP by 200MT/s and retesting. Adjust until no errors appear.
If none of these steps help, consider switching to a different SSD drive—Samsung 870 EVO or similar from Crucial with DRAM cache is usually dependable.
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Factor-In...B08PC43D78
For budget-conscious users, I've used many inexpensive Patriot SATA SSDs as Windows boot media in older systems.
You might find a 120GB drive for about $13 and try it out. Suitable for basic Windows installs and low cost. Avoid Lexar.
https://www.amazon.com/Patriot-Memory-P2...ref=sr_1_5
I've had good results with second-hand motherboards, CPUs, GPUs, NICs, and RAM on eBay, though I've encountered some issues. One old motherboard I purchased for a friend failed after six months, running an AMD AM3 processor with a Phenom II X4 955, indicating it was quite outdated.
The main concern with second-hand components is the uncertainty about whether previous owners followed proper ESD protection or exposed the boards to static damage.
When I receive a board, CPU, or RAM wrapped in static-prone bubblewrap, I feel a bit uneasy—but if the cost is minimal, I consider it normal. It’s better when parts arrive in ESD-safe packaging, showing the seller’s attention to detail.
The laboratories where I work have invested millions in anti-static measures—ESD flooring, benches, protective gear, etc.
If any of your second-hand items show signs of static damage, it may take years before a failure occurs.
Thanks for sharing all the details.
The process was straightforward, just one pass with the ram checker. It was my initial use of memtest, so everything started at the default settings.
I looked through other forums and noticed that after running 3200 tests, things tend to become unstable. My RAM is rated at 2133 stock (2400xmp), I believe. I achieved a speed boost up to 29xx on the RyzenMaster bench, so I went back to 2750/2800. After resetting the CMOS first, I kept it at stock.
I didn’t consider ESD or OS drive problems... Perhaps I’m just too confident in my setup. Since I don’t have a spare SSD and funds are limited, I might connect a USB HDD for booting, but only after confirming the PSU is solid—I still think that’s the main concern.
Sadly the other PSU (really dusty silverstone SFX) seems to match this problem or it's completely different.
I also found out my current unit is an Aerocool VP pro 850w, which helps explain things.
I'm preparing memtest tonight; it might take all day tomorrow just to check thoroughly for errors.
I don't have any known good leftover RAM, so ideally I'll skip the faulty one and stick with the 8gb fml.
So memtest with the maximum free 4 passes didn’t yield any results. I’m running it again now using sequential CPU mode for a more straightforward approach.
I also considered that ESD might not be the issue, as it seemed to occur in my previous setup.
From a hardware standpoint, the only consistent elements between both setups are the drives and the RAM, which I’ve confirmed are working fine.
If a test install on a known good drive failed, it might point to a cable problem, though I’m starting to doubt that.
I’ll keep trying 🤪
A lot of testing was carried out recently. I removed my WD blue drive from the board, along with nearly all other SSDs, and installed a brand new OS on just one remaining drive. The installation was interrupted several times by restart crashes. Eventually, it was finished.
Later, I took out my second RAM stick from the A2 slot, and the system ran smoothly for more than 24 hours during the reinstallation of my Steam collection. Considering this RAM stick has passed eight memory tests without any issues, it seems the problem lies with the board itself.
In the following hour, I swapped out the RAM and discovered that both the A2 and B1 slots caused frequent restarts. The A1 and B2 slots appeared to be the only stable options.
Unfortunately, this means I’m now using a dual 16GB single-channel PC for gaming, which may result in about a 10% performance drop. On the positive side, I can now share this experience in one comprehensive post without having to rewrite it multiple times.
Thanks again for the drive recommendation that guided me correctly. I’ll attribute this outcome either to a random board slot issue or to dishonest sellers. Time to reset my overclocks and try to balance things out.