Smoke from magic lingered last night, marking the end of it all.
Smoke from magic lingered last night, marking the end of it all.
After reviewing EVGA's used warranty policy, I realized I didn't meet the criteria of previous ownership issues. As a casual user, I couldn't pinpoint which part would fail if replaced, though I'm not sure it's even doable. I assumed the issue was internal damage and rendered the board useless, but I was still intrigued. In a slim possibility these components were in parallel, I thought replacing them might salvage the board—after all, it's better than nothing.
Usually you would see a burn if that was the case and it would be pretty obvious. Anyway, the absolute first thing I would do is clean the board up. There probably is some damage somewhere that would be hiding under the dust and nicotine from the previous owner, and cleaning it would be the easiest way to find out. That said, I think I can see where the blown MOSFET is. Spoiler Get it cleaned up, then grab a multimeter to check if the inductor next to it is shorted to ground or to 12V. If it is, that should hopefully be possible to fix assuming it didn't blow up the memory at the same time (pretty sure that's part of a memory power rail, but it's been a while since I've looked at 20 series cards and am not positive about that), either by replacing the driver and MOSFET or just replacing the voltage regulator as a whole. If you want to attempt to fix the card, might be worth a shot.
Is that the R47 chip near you? I don’t have much experience with electrical parts, but I’m sure you’re referring to the die and the memory.
Received a complimentary 1080p free file with the condition that anyone believing they could improve it is welcome. It turned out to be a film of nicotine on the back of a cap that was sealing it shut and stopping its upload. I cleaned it extensively, and after 49 seconds of the first post, it regained functionality. Then performed numerous 1.2M ppd folding cycles.
The R47 is the component with an inductor. Anything containing 'R' followed by a number is typically an inductor.
For the ground you can use a screw hold, the negative side of a capacitor, a ground pin if it's an 8-pin PCIe, the casing of an HDMI port, the general IO Bracket, etc. Regarding the 12V, install three inductors along the right side of the card connected to the 12V power plane—one per PCIe power connector and one for the PCIe slot. Verify each one; it's likely connected to the slot, so confirm that first but test all. Keep the device unplugged if it's shorted to 12V and memory still functional; turning it on again might damage it.
One of the LR22 chokes was damaged, and the component next to it appears swollen at the end.
The VCore failed, which is actually a positive sign—it suggests the card might be repairable. If you detach the inductor next to the damaged power stage, the card should begin functioning again. However, I recommend swapping out the power stage before assuming it can handle full power levels.