Reviewed some of the Overclocking choices and loud water cooling, then moved the settings after reinstalling?
Reviewed some of the Overclocking choices and loud water cooling, then moved the settings after reinstalling?
Hello! About nine months back, I chose to upgrade my PC. I relied on them for creating my previous setup, and they performed well, but the firmware suggested exploring water cooling options they hadn't handled before, along with adjusting overclocking settings. As someone without expertise, and knowing I couldn't fix any long-term damage or detect problems in the BIOS or overclocking, I was unsure, yet decided to proceed.
Well, they installed a slow memory solution. It does come with an XMP profile of 2400Mhz, you should turn it on. Check images 2 and 5, there’s the Extreme Memory Profile. I noticed 1.32 volts, which is fine for a 10700k, but it seems no overclocking is active at all. Everything runs on auto, so the voltage adjusts automatically based on the chip’s needs. MCE (Multicore Enhancement) is set to auto; you could disable it if you want certainty, though it doesn’t appear to be affecting performance (disabling it would raise all cores to 5.1Ghz). What cooler is this? If it’s a 120mm radiator, it might be too small for a 10700K. The orientation also plays a role—ideally the pump should sit at the bottom to avoid air bubbles forming there. If most of the radiator is positioned lower than the CPU, that could be the issue. You’d just need to relocate the radiator to the top of the case, which should help remove any trapped bubbles.
It seems quite alike to a pump malfunction. Have the freezes started recently? Likewise, are the temperatures high? Pumps don’t tolerate air very well—it damages them. It appears your AIO might be positioned at the top, preventing air from entering the pump. Which AIO model is this?
It has gradually worsened over time since installing the PC. As discussed, my initial thought was to permanently open the left panel and install an additional fan for better cooling, since the motherboard already warned about overheating. Although the 602/603 case from BeQuiet with a lot of foam seems responsible, it doesn’t appear to be the main cause. The noise has increased in frequency and volume, but the temperatures remain moderate thanks to the open left case. Others on forums suggested opening the top as well, which might help airflow through the radiator and reduce the problem.
The device is a Navis EVO ARGB 280 v2, and here are some additional photos of the loop:
https://imgur.com/a/5zU4f5F
View: https://imgur.com/a/5zU4f5F
I hope I can improve the positioning inside this case to better support the pump and resolve the issue before it completely fails. However, since it’s still under warranty, in the worst case they might replace it, though I’m skeptical if that would happen due to a human error rather than a manufacturing defect.
Can you check the pump speed somewhere? It should be around a couple of thousand RPM and running at full capacity constantly. Are the fans increasing when the CPU gets hotter? Have you experimented with fancurves? Looking at this, the Noctua D15 seems more suitable.
https://tech-legend.com/reviews/silentiu...-280-v2/3/
It doesn't look like a very efficient cooler either—even better than Air.
Compared to the H100x, it appears similar in price range but the H100x is only 240mm thick.