Remove solder from old connections and install new ones.
Remove solder from old connections and install new ones.
I've got a functional giga H61M, but about three out of four USB connections are damaged and the VGA port is also affected. I'll need to check the remaining ports, as some might be faulty too. Replacing parts won't be easy—there are 35 boards scattered around, with roughly 20 of them essentially non-functional. I can salvage a few by scrapping and reusing ports from dead boards. My estimate was around 20 working units, but now 3-4 are beyond repair and require major fixes like socket swaps, chipset changes, or VRM replacements. Some components are tricky to fix and troubleshoot. I might eventually bring these back for fun, and about 10 boards can be sold with minor repairs like straightening pins or re-soldering chips. One upper-left port still works, so it’s probably not the USB controller. The LED indicator lights up when using the keyboard, but other ports are completely dead. A cheap Chinese mouse can power LEDs from multiple ports, though the keyboard port doesn’t work either. The VGA is dead, and both GPUs in the tested boards (G645, G2030) function perfectly. Cleaning the board thoroughly helped—dipping it in water twice with 99% IPA restored the USB and VGA ports, though only the PCIe X16 slot came back. Desoldering parts is risky with just two affordable soldering irons, so I’m considering a heat gun for better precision. Spoiler: This repair might be doable with the right tools, but it’s going to be a challenge.
It might be a bit tough using just a regular iron, but pairing a heat gun with it works best.
You won’t need a cheap soldering iron or an industrial heat gun to handle multilayer PCBs. These components require high temperatures to melt solder properly. It’s likely you’re misusing your tools and wasting both time and money trying to start soldering on modern circuits. I also question whether the ports are actually the problem—often it’s the socket or traces that cause issues.
You should avoid using regular soldering irons on motherboards. They simply won’t generate enough heat to properly desolder components. Invest in a quality soldering station with a strong transformer—at least 50 watts will serve you well. Even with a standard iron, combining hot air from a gun or a hair dryer can help. For best results, apply flux and solder to retention pins, then use a solder sucker. If needed, cut solid-core wire and touch it to the pins to melt the solder across rows. Continue this process until all rows are covered, then move your iron from one row to the next, heating each until you can remove the connector or it comes off. For USB connections, test continuity with a multimeter between pins and contacts before proceeding. Sometimes the issue isn’t the connectors but a broken fuse or protection diode. Watch the video for more details, but remember, those budget tools lack the power to melt enough solder effectively. Don’t skip proper flux and a reliable iron.
I used an iron for soldering, but precision work isn’t the best here. It seems a heat gun wouldn’t be necessary. I’ve tried using an iron and a pump before, and it was really difficult. The idea of “shooting” the ports doesn’t seem right unless the internal pins or traces are damaged. More likely, the issue is with the chip or its connections on the board. Have you checked with a multimeter to confirm there’s resistance around 0Ω or higher inside the port?
Mainly purchased irons for a simple fix on an x58a unit. It turned out to be just rewiring the main bios chip, which is why I bought two. Mostly focused on basic fixes and adjustments. I won’t be desoldering VRMs with these, since the tips are interchangeable. Later I might upgrade to sharper tips for voltmoding and other tasks. Things are straightforward—like soldering a thin wire, moving resistors (like X58 PCIe mod), desoldering SMDs not connected to power (anything except VRMs).
Why didn’t I think about needing a multimeter? Probably because I assumed it was only for voltmoding. Honestly, I’m not sure what a multimeter is looking for right now, so it came to mind first.
Another question: Does a hair dryer really get that hot? There are plenty of heat guns for around $8, so those should work. But if I buy a soldering station, I’d probably need two for dual irons when working on bios chips or SMDs that require more heat. The station itself is just a control board connected to a heating element—mostly just soldering on another connector.
I assume the connector is only for the heating element, so all I’d have to do is solder on another connector and have two irons on one station. Are there any good options? They’re better than these budget irons, though I’ve heard T12 stations are superior. If I invest in a decent one, what else should I buy?
I already have flux and some low-temp 138°C solder paste, so I think I can use those. For the wire, I have some basic mechanical supplies. Looking online, it looks like this should work fine. I do have some cheap solder wire, but it’s just low-quality. I’d avoid using flux during desoldering—it’s unnecessary even for a beginner.
When using a multi-meter with True RMS capability, it should work fine. This is the standard we were instructed to follow during my training. https://www.rockwellautomation.com/en-us...tant-.html The blue model performs well, while the yellow one has limitations.
True RMS isn't essential for a beginner multimeter. It becomes important mainly when measuring AC voltages frequently, especially if the device needs to handle waveforms that aren't perfectly sine waves. This feature doesn’t impact continuity checks, DC voltage readings, resistance tests, or other basic functions. Focus on accuracy—like achieving 1% error in DC measurements is achievable with most tools, while 0.5% or less is ideal for resistance. A solid continuity mode is key: it should alert you immediately when leads touch, though some models take a moment. For reliable performance, opt for well-known brands. The Aneng and Uni-T UT890D+ are solid choices around 25 euros, offering a comprehensive set for the price. Consider buying one instead of multiple devices; a good meter should last years, ideally over a decade. It includes 6000 counts, True RMS, diode mode, capacitance detection, AC/DC readings, frequency measurement, and more. For details, check the Banggood link or the TME EU page. The UT33 series is cheaper but lacks features like diode mode, min/max settings, AC current measurement, and strong fuses—making it more suited for low-voltage tasks. Aneng models provide better value in this price range.
Avoid ordering from China when India has stores that also deliver the same items. The UT33 is significantly cheaper than the UT890D but I’m interested in what ENG offers at a similar price, preferably something less expensive than the UT890D and essentially just a rebranded generic Chinese model like the DT9205. If the brand difference isn’t too big, I’m fine with that.
Avoid thinking about the UT33 series, it's not suitable for your requirements. It lacks useful features such as diode mode, making it more akin to a basic multimeter for car use—measuring battery voltage and similar simple tasks. The model with PLUS at the end likely uses a different chip, but I haven't found reviews confirming its quality. The UT33 C+ includes temperature measurement (possibly with a separate K probe), while the UT33 D+ is designed for NCV measurements and drops temperature. If you're looking for a budget option, the UT33 C+ might be acceptable, though it's unclear if it comes with a good probe. For better value, consider the UT890D+ priced around $25-30—it offers a solid feature set and robust build. Be cautious with seller descriptions; check reviews carefully for models labeled with PLUS or similar features. Alternatives like the Aneng AN8001 or AN8002 (both using the same chip) could be worth considering, with the latter possibly including temperature readings and a cheaper probe. Reviews for these are available online.