Reconfiguring the 10Gbps switch for shutdown purposes
Reconfiguring the 10Gbps switch for shutdown purposes
Here’s a revised version of your text:
So. Notice this isn’t meant for the faint-hearted or uncertain. We’ll be soldering, working with metal, and taking apart a network switch. We’ll handle an unshielded power source—no harm expected. Just remember, everything carries risk. If something goes wrong, it’s your responsibility. Linus often warns about power supplies being dangerous. With that in mind, let’s move forward. Our goal is to install a fast network switch, preferably 10GBASE-T with multiple SFP+ ports that operate quietly. This setup will definitely function well for high-density switches with over 50 POE ports, especially since we’ll swap out the old fans for larger ones.
~~~ Why are fans in network switches tricky ~~
Let’s explore this topic about fans in switches. You might have faced similar challenges before (especially when reading this). Replacing a fan in a managed 19" switch can be quite complex. If the manufacturer uses standard connectors—like 2, 3, or 4-pin fan connectors (commonly known as Molex KK or TX3)—you’re in a better position. Now you just need to identify the pin layout and understand that these fans differ significantly from their PC counterparts. There’s no PWM, no speed display, and the third pin usually serves a different purpose—often a "dead fan detection" signal from a hall sensor or similar. The exact function is kept secret by the manufacturer. If you attempt to connect the switch’s headers to your setup, you may trigger a fan alert. Even if you’re comfortable with it, you’ll learn that network switch fans operate at much lower start voltages than PC fans. Most PC fans are designed for 12V operation, while network fans typically run on 3-4V. Some start at 7V or 10V, but network fans begin around 3-4V. Consequently, your new quiet 40mm fans might not activate or could shut down after initial power-up. Noiseblocker fans work, but they’re limited to 10mm width and provide minimal airflow.
If you’re using a high-density switch with over 48 ports and POE, expect significant heat buildup. For 10Gbps speeds, airflow is essential. So? Skip the 40mm fans. Instead, we’ll drill holes in the switch, draw power from the main supply, and run silent 12V fans on top. Just be aware this voids your warranty.
The switch I chose for this project is a D-Link DXS-1210-12TC (Revision A1). It’s not new and can be found on eBay in Europe for around 500€ if you’re lucky. Most users replace them due to noise, though I prefer D-Link for its user-friendly interface—no need to wrestle with CLI. If you’re from Cisco territory, that’s fine, but it doesn’t matter.
The first step is to open the switch. I won’t go into detail unless you’re certain you can handle it—stop here if unsure. Once open, we’ll confirm the power supply delivers ample 12V. Then we detach the plug from both the power source and the mainboard. This process is straightforward for this model (thanks to D-Link’s cable design), but avoid touching any coils or internal parts.
With the cable removed, cut a red and black wire, then solder a third wire in between. I’m using a Molex connector here, so I can swap it out later if needed. Next, drill holes through the top cover—use hole punches for clean edges. If you don’t have them, skip this step.
Mounting the fans on the top of the switch cover is the next phase. It adds a few extra units to your 19" setup, but it’s worth it if you’re not risking your health or warranty. Most cabinets provide enough space for these modifications.
The final part involves creating an adapter to connect the external fans to the power supply inside the switch. Basic soldering is required, and pay close attention to polarity. If you’re unsure, halt here. I’m relying heavily on Molex connectors, so I have crimp tools ready. You can also salvage connectors from spare power supplies.
Once connected, assemble the cover back onto the switch. This part is tricky with SFP connectors, but there are workarounds. Consider practicing on a spare switch first. If you succeed, you’ll end up with a nearly silent 19"-silenced switch. I’ve even recorded a video showing the noise level of this modification—watch it for reference.
The Noctua NF-A8 ULN model handles 34.8m³/h, while the Y.S.TECH FD124020EB manages 17.9m³/h. With three Noctuas, we’re effectively tripling the airflow with minimal noise. The push-pull configuration works well, similar to high-end cooling fans. It’s a solid choice for my basement—no major disturbances for my wife.
Let me know what you think!
You seem to have misunderstood the message. It appears your impression isn't correct. A note: Noctua A4 won't even begin in the D-Link switch due to the high starting voltage of the Noctuas. And: they're definitely not quiet. A 40mm switch pushing 20 m³/h won't be silent.
This design seems quite unconventional. You've adjusted it to fit a 2U+ configuration, which adds some challenges—especially with the need for clearance above the fans and the risk of damaging them. The fan layout you described aims to direct airflow from left to right or vice versa between the heatsink fins. However, the placement appears suboptimal, as the fans seem positioned in less ideal spots. While pushing enough air might eventually force it out through the sides, the current setup may limit efficiency.
The Noctua fans you mention struggle with static pressure; they’re more like case fans than radiator fans and aren’t built to channel air through fins effectively. Small obstructions can significantly hinder airflow. Your Noctua models have a much lower static pressure—around 1.05 mm H₂O compared to the 40mm fans’ 9mm/0.36 in. This means the larger fans can move more air through the gaps on their sides.
Considering this, placing multiple units inside the switch could help push air through the fins. A strategic arrangement might improve cooling performance despite the current design flaws.
You could use a 12V soldering mod to adjust the push and pull of the smaller fans.
Obviously my perspective differs because the box doesn’t accommodate the fans you mentioned. This wasn’t the first attempt to mute a switch, and I’m unsure if anyone has tried using those particular fans—they’re far from silent. Not at all. Any gain in noise reduction would be minimal, just forcing openings without real advantage. I’ve placed Noctuas in a push-pull setup; the middle one draws air from the chassis. It performs well, cutting SFP+ chip temperatures by about 5-6°C versus standard fans, while other sensors match the stock performance. However, it operates much quieter. Adding fans on top introduces new challenges, especially with this switch positioned upside down on a shelf rather than in a cabinet. This setup offers extra comfort in office settings, particularly for POE switches delivering Ethernet across an entire floor. Edited April 2, 2024 by BigFatTeddy
Noise levels are significantly higher with these 40mm fans. I've experienced this with other switches used in OT setups, particularly under tough conditions where extra cooling was necessary. In those cases, sound wasn't a concern. Here, the focus is on moving air through filters to prevent anything from entering the switch. This particular switch is intended for my home environment, and minimizing noise is the priority.
For optimal performance, placing fans directly above each heatsink would ensure even cooling. A larger fan setup might have been more practical, and a consistent push-pull design could improve airflow distribution, minimizing hot spots.
The bigger audience didn't form because the biggest hole punch I possess measures 75.2mm in diameter. Since these items cost a lot, that was the exact size. The hotspots are worth noting, but honestly, the design ensures steady airflow using just two 40mm fans. The heat from the chipsets isn’t a sudden spike but a steady level. The push/pull setting was chosen after testing other configurations; it performs best for this model, especially with the extra chipset in the upper left corner that adds two combo ports. That chipset isn’t ideal. The bigger aluminum heat sink at the bottom is contributing least, and I actually have a switch version with just two heat sinks, so it’s largely irrelevant. The fan positions were selected to provide adequate airflow to the power supply and the specific chipset in the top left. Changing to a push configuration would only raise the temperature of the black heat sink by about 2°C.
Yeah, I see on my M.2 slot one side gets almost no airflow while the GPU handles a lot of heat. It looks like the design didn’t account for this. The chipset’s VRM prevents air from reaching the M.2 slot. For future fixes, I’d stick to using a metal fin setup with a 1950x ASRock M.2 slot.