Question unclear about the BSOD but only at my place
Question unclear about the BSOD but only at my place
Hey guys,
I made a post a couple of months ago here, about how i was having blue screens but only at my house, and they were all ntoskrnl.exe.
Well i've since discovered that my house is not the issue, but basically having an internet connection.
So my pc will not get a bsod if i unplugg the ethernet cable (i've left it running for 10 hours straight and many more times for 2 or 3 hours without having a bsod).
If i boot it in Safe mode with internet connection, he will also not crash with bsod (tried it a couple of times for like 3 to 4 hours, with no bsod).
But if i use it normally with internet connection, he will get a Bsod after around 1hour and 30 minutes, give or take. (It used to be a lot shorter like every 5 minutes to every 20 minutes, but now it's happening every 1:30hours or so).
I've tried everything under the sun, except replacing CPU/Mobo, here is a quick list of what i've tried:
- A different outlet.
- A different power strip.
- A surge protection power strip.
- A new power cable.
- Energy mode in performance mode
- Also different peripherals.
- Fresh Windows install
- Updating Drivers. Reverting drivers to the basic ones. Updating again.
- Updating BIOS and Chipset
- Trying with 1 ram stick. Trying with the other one. Doing it in different slots. And also trying a completely different Ram stick.
- All the Cmd, comands and none of them noticed any errors.
- Stress testing the pc several times, with no issues detected.
- Turning XMP off
- Tried using the internet via USB Wifi adapter and it still crashed
- Tried using a USB Ethernet adapter, with my network adapter turned off and it still crashed
- Tried the stock ethernet driver and the most recent one, and the result is the same
- Clean boot
- Windows in place upgrade
(and maybe more that i'm not remembering it)
After i did the Windows in place upgrade, and i removed the Amd drivers, and installed the most recent ones from my Bios website the code on the bluescreens has changed in 3 of the last 4.
Before they would exclusively just be ntoskrnl.exe without bug check string, but now on those 3 it's still caused by ntoskrnl.exe but with the string: IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL.
Another thing to notice and that i'm doing right now, is that if i run Driver verifier he will not get a Bsod, at least for the time that i have been running it.
I've done it like 3 times, each one with an up time of 3 to 4 hours with no Bsod, but if i turn driver verifier off and use it normally i get the Bsod after 1hour and 30 minutes or so.
So i can't provide dumps while using verifier because he hasn't crashed sinced.
This is the link to the most recent ones:
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/r866...ey...x1djvgib6s&st=129cajxn&dl=0
My specs:
- CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600
- Motherboard: MSI B450 Tomahawk Max
- GPU: Nvidia RTX 2060
- RAM: Corsair DDR4 2x8GB 3600Mhz
- Harddrive: SSD Samsung 1TB 870 QVO
- PSU: Nox Hummer
I really appreacite it if someone can take a look at the dumps and point me in the right direction to solve this, since i've been at this since April.
Thank you very much.
Ensure the content stays focused and concise across all sections.
I wonder if it's a faulty PSU used to power your Ethernet router or switch?
To explain. Many broadband routers and network switches with Ethernet ports are powered by small mains "bricks" with a +12V DC or similar output. It might be +5V, it could be +24V.
It's common for mains bricks to have only two pins connected on the mains side, i.e. Line and Neutral only. If the PSU is Class 2, double isolated, it won't use the mains safety earth.
Most switched mode PSUs contain Class-X and/or Class-Y RFI filter capacitors on the mains input. Sometimes leakage currents from these capacitors feed through on to the +12V DC output (at high impedance).
The result (on rare occasions) is you can end up with not only +12V and 0V DC connections to the broadband router/switch, but also a 50Hz or 60Hz high impedance mains voltage of several tens of Volts.
This mains voltage (which isn't normally dangerous or above the SELV limit) gets passed through the broadband router/switch and appears on the Ethernet cable feed to the computer.
The computer is normally grounded to the mains safety earth unless you have a faulty mains outlet in your home. Hence you have one grounded unit (computer) and one non-grounded unit (router/switch).
When you connect an Ethernet cable with a high impedance mains voltage superimposed on the data and 0V wires, the AC voltage affects the sensitive logic circuits in the PC which are probably powered from +5V.
Several volts RMS (or higher) at 50/60Hz superimposed on the +5V/0V DC Ethernet signals could cause the computer to crash.
As a check, disconnect the DC PSU from the broadband router. Get a cheap multimeter and set it to an AC Volts range, e.g. 200V AC. If the meter has a 20V AC range, try that.
Connect one meter lead to the barrel of the DC power jack (0V) and the other meter lead to the mains safety earth.
The meter should read 0V AC with the DC power brick switched off.
Plug the DC power brick into the AC mains, switch on and check the meter again. If you see several volts AC or higher, you've got AC leakage through to the DC output of the PSU.
Find another DC power brick with the same output voltage and current rating, e.g. 12V at 2.0A. Set the multimeter to the 20V DC range. Check the DC polarity of both supplies is the same. Normally the inner socket on the DC jack is positive and the outer barrel negative. Do NOT use another brick with a different DC output voltage.
Check the new DC brick with the meter on the 200V (or 20V) AC range, to see if there is any leakage component on the new DC brick. If none, use the new DC brick to power the broadband router and connect the Ethernet cable to the computer.
With any luck, the fault will have disappeared.
Thank you for your reply Misgar. The technician who came to fix my PC also suspected the router, but for other reasons. He convinced me to reach out to my ISP and request a factory reset or a replacement. I performed the factory reset and the PC functioned properly for three days before the BSOD reappeared. I contacted the ISP, explained the issue, and they kindly replaced the router with a newer model, including the PSU. One hour after the new router was installed, the BSOD returned again. I might consider bringing in some equipment to test my theory since the tech guy is on vacation, and I’m currently stuck. Thank you for your detailed explanation—I really appreciate it.