Question Black square artifacts appear only at specific resolutions after pressing alt+F4 to exit the game.
Question Black square artifacts appear only at specific resolutions after pressing alt+F4 to exit the game.
Yesterday night I was playing Green Hell and had to quickly move my pupper to emergency. Don't worry, she's fine. I pressed alt+F4 and closed the app. Upon returning home, I observed these irregular black squares shifting when I hovered over icons or opened windows. This issue appears only at 1440p, 1620p, and 1080p. 1620 and 2160 work without problems.
I've been doing a mild overclock on my system for about 2-3 months, but it remains stable in the low to mid 50s, never exceeding 62. I haven't encountered any artifacts or crashes in the game due to this change. My rig is a decent-sized Corsair tower equipped with three 120mm front intakes, one 120mm top exhaust, and three 120mm exhausts on an AIO at the top. The CPU stays below 60, except for brief spikes up to around 65 when launching a game. Then it settles back into the mid 50s.
At this stage, I've completely removed all display drivers and performed a full reinstall. After opening the tower, removing the card, and giving her a thorough reset, everything worked perfectly. I also cleaned the CMOS battery just for fun. Some games still show strange ghosting squares at these resolutions, but they're unaffected at other settings.
My main concern is that a few games become extremely difficult to run at 1440p, or that's the highest resolution I can get for them. For example, Stalker 2 runs quite well at 4k with DLSS balanced, but 1440p DLAA seems a bit sharper and runs noticeably smoother, especially in areas with many NPCs.
I'm using the following components: MSI MAG B550 Gaming Plus (with the latest BIOS just last week), Ryzen 7 5800X, MSI RTX 5070 Gaming Trio, 32GB Corsair Vengeance 3200MHz, MSI MAG 800W Gold+ PSU, MSI MAG 3X 120 AIO Cooler, and a Corsair full ATX modular tower. My setup includes a Samsung Evo 870 SSD, 960M2 NVMe, and a WD Black M2 drive.
Thank you for your help.
It might be GPU memory if you have an overclocking (OC) enabled, particularly with a recent driver update.
I've reset the Afterburner to stock settings. It seems related to the DSR factors in the image scaling options of the nVidia app. Using legacy scaling works fine. I haven't checked game performance yet, but switching to "DL Scaling (same quality, 2x more efficient)" causes the artifacts. I'm planning to run STALKER now to see how it performs.
Just to confirm. You didn't encounter the issue at those previous settings before alt-F4 and return. Was the program shut down when you came back, and did the computer remain in idle mode?
All accounts have been corrected. The main concerns are related to DLSS/DLAA. Applying those settings leads to unusual shaders and reflections. I tested three different games; DLSS/AA causes strange ghosts/tracers and odd shading. Other AA methods work, though they are about 3-5 fps slower and less stable.
Skate, Automobilista 2, and STALKER 2 are the primary titles I’m playing right now that support DLSS. All three feature similar odd kaleidoscope reflections when using DLSS at any setting, but they function just fine with any other AA configuration. On my desktop, the monitor is only 1080p, so I enable super resolution to push it to 1440p, which helps games run at that higher resolution instead of the lower one. In the NVIDIA control panel, when I set 1440 or 1620 via DL Super Resolution and choose that resolution for my desktop, the screen displays those small black squares moving around. With 1440 or 1620 or any other resolution through Legacy DSR, the display looks normal. However, games that rely on DLSS or AA as graphics options appear to behave poorly, resembling bad LSD unless I switch to TAA or FSR. This results in a noticeable drop in frames—typically 3 to 7 fps—or worse, visible jaggies in shadows, steering wheel details, and dashboard stitching. 😆
As I mentioned before, I went into the Windows control panel and fully removed the driver, restarted the PC and installed it from scratch, twice now. On the second attempt, I reinserted the card and reset the CMOS because I was inside there and the battery was usually under the card. I checked for Windows updates and tried rolling back to earlier driver versions, following all the usual steps.