PSU clicks during Q-Flash
PSU clicks during Q-Flash
Hello enthusiasts! I recently assembled my ideal gaming rig. It isn’t my first time setting up a PC, but this one definitely turned my hair gray... The problem: After connecting the USB with the new BIOS into the correct USB A port, pressing the Q-Flash button, the PSU clicks, yet the Q-Flash fails to start. What I’ve attempted so far includes using different drives, restarting in various modes, clearing CMOS, unplugging the power supply, removing the PSU, and even resetting the motherboard. Key observations: When I initially built the system, aside from memory issues, it functioned temporarily. After a fresh boot with updated drivers and BIOS, it remained stable during intense gaming sessions. However, on the second day, when trying to power it up, I saw the D-ram LED light up. After several attempts, it booted into the Aorus logo before launching Windows. Once there, I could play normally without extra steps. But after a restart failed, I had to re-seat the RAM, which helped temporarily—until it stopped working again. Then I unplugged the PSU, used the power button to discharge the motherboard, and it worked. Each time I needed to turn it on, I had to go through a complicated process. It was exhausting, and eventually I gave up, feeling frustrated with this repetitive troubleshooting. I reached out to the PC support community on Discord for help and followed a detailed guide. Important notes: My specs include a 7500F X870E AORUS ELITE WIFI7 ICE (Rev. 1.2), an 2080 FE / GTX 960 graphics card, 6400MHz RAM (AMD compatible), SATA SSD for booting, and an EG1000G PSU.
I'm curious if this might be a faulty memory controller in the CPU. Could you try another processor to see how it performs? Also, does the computer produce any beeps or post codes during startup? If the system has a speaker installed, it could assist in identifying the problem.
Initially, do you have any code on your LED display? This will greatly assist in troubleshooting. It’s important to verify if your RAM matches your motherboard’s compatibility list. DDR5 might cause issues if it isn’t listed. I once had two 32GB sticks that weren’t recognized because they weren’t on the compatibility list, and sometimes my PC would lock up during resume. After booting, memory errors appeared, flagging one stick as “unknown vendor” in the BIOS—something unusual. I went through several memory tests and found the fix when the correct RAM was used.
For many users, this isn’t a common problem, but it’s worth checking. I haven’t heard much about Gigabyte boards or GPUs causing this, but it could be related to the power supply unit (PSU) or internal components. The simplest approach would be swapping the PSU if possible, especially if you can find a nearby store that helps. This test usually doesn’t cost much and could save time.
To be honest, the lack of QFLASH functionality suggests the motherboard might be the issue, but we need more details to confirm. If you’re unsure, starting with a PSU swap would be a low-risk first step.
I don’t have any extra CPUs. The system ran very smoothly while gaming, and it restarted properly once it was powered up at 6400mhz. The speaker setup is a good thought, but I don’t own any speakers. I receive postcodes, but there are so many, usually when I turn it on and the motherboard displays CPU temperature and it looks like it’s working, but there’s no video output.
I'm sure it's not the PSU, it performed well during gaming stress tests. The random shutdowns seem more related to the GPU than the motherboard. RAM works too. The main issue was that after booting for 12 hours of gaming (DBD and Dota 2 at 2k 144Hz), I tried updating the BIOS but it didn't help. I keep getting various error codes, and they change—sometimes 00, sometimes D4, occasionally up to ten different ones in a row, which suggests a boot issue.
I’d send back the mobile if it’s still covered by warranty and I receive a refund, otherwise I’d consider another brand within my budget. I own an MSI MPG Edge Ti with Wi-Fi that matches your model and is more dependable based on my experience. I usually try to fix issues myself since it’s always fun to explore new hardware problems, but if it’s under warranty just request a return.