Problem with using or installing new parts causing power failure.
Problem with using or installing new parts causing power failure.
I’m assembling my daughter’s first gaming setup using a mix of used and brand-new components, such as the old ASRock X570 Taichi and a Ryzen 9 5900X from an earlier build. The unit won’t power on at all. When the PSU is switched on, the Mobo lights up, but pressing both the case and motherboard power buttons gives nothing; there’s no activation, no sounds, and no fans running. The case fans, GPU, and AI are not turning on either. The PSU (EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G3) was moved from my current rig a week ago without any problems.
I’m seeking advice on how to best figure out why the power isn’t coming on. Everything seems connected and powered in. I made the mistake of not testing the motherboard and CPU beforehand. My plan is to remove any extra components step by step, aiming to identify faulty wiring, shorts, or dead parts.
Thank you for your help and insights ahead of the new year!
After using liquid metal and ripping the CPU out of the socket, all bets are off. I've ripped my fair share of really ancient CPUs out of their sockets when the thermal paste set rock hard, but I've never used liquid metal.
It's possible the socket or mobo may have been contaminated with fine droplets of liquid metal. Equally likely, some (invisible) mechanical damage has occured in the socket.
I'd check the PSU on another system, then consider consigning the mobo and CPU to the scrap heap. The CPU might still be OK, but do you really want to risk it in a known good mobo if there's any chance of liquid metal contamination?
As a matter of interest, was your Copper water block Nickel plated? Liquid metal tends to "eat" some surfaces and you end up with pitting and corrosion.
@Ralston18 used only cables that came with the unit. The PSU works well. I moved it from my rig in the morning to the new build just a few hours later. I verified all PSU connections to the motherboard, PSU, and front panel cables thoroughly—everything is properly seated. I reset the CMOS multiple times, even using an old battery removal method, to ensure it was fully reset. All non-essential components and cables have been disconnected from the motherboard.
@Misgar after three and a half years, the Conductonaut had hardened completely; nothing remained liquid. The aio was a CORSAIR Hydro Series H100i RGB PLATINUM with no nickel plating on the copper block. I never used liquid metal again. My current preference is Noctua NT-H2.
@All I have a few more tests to perform, but it seems this mobo and CPU are likely going to be replaced. I plan to install only one RAM stick at a time (there are four). I found a YouTube video about a dead stick that stopped the motherboard from powering on but caused the PSU to cycle rapidly—this isn’t my situation. Thank you for the advice and support.
Well, both the Taichi and the ASUS ROG Strix B550-F Gaming WiFi II are 5900X toast. I swapped them in with a Ryzen 5 5600 and my daughter has a solid build that should hold up for a while. She gets the benefits from my old gear while I upgrade later. This thread is closed—thanks for the comments and advice.