Problem occurred with the wired link, user is new to the computer.
Problem occurred with the wired link, user is new to the computer.
New pc (call it PC1), bought a few days ago. The MB is Gigabyte B850 Gaming X Wifi6e. Installed Windows 10 Pro, everything worked fine, with wired and wifi internet.
Today I lost the wired connection. The wifi is fine, both on the computer and the router. Called a team from the ISP, they came quick, tested the direct connection and the signal, they said it's fine. "Maybe it's your drivers" they said on their way out.
Indeed, all that I have done today was messing with some drivers. I don't know if this is the source of my problem, but I will try to describe it.
[ Earlier today, I was trying to pair a bluetooth keyboard with some difficulties and having barely surface knowledge about computers, I installed
QMK Toolbox
as a recomendation from the keyboard manufacturer. Thinking it would help with the firmware of my keyboard, I clicked "install drivers" from QMK Toolbox. It installed a dozen drivers, automatically. I have no idea what.
I remember that soon after, my wired connection was struggling, disconnecting and reconnecting many times in a few minutes. Maybe it's a coincidence, maybe not. This is why I'm here, I'm not a wise man. ]
What I did:
- Went for network reset in Windows > Settings > Networking and internet > Status. No change.
- Uninstalled all the networkinng adapters, reinstalled them, updated. No wired internet.
- Connected another pc (PC2) at the same network and with the same cables, with and without router, working perfectly in wired (has no wifi).
- Put the cables back to PC1, no wired internet.
- Used commands from the Microsoft support page for resetting/renewing, with no results:
-
netsh winsock reset
- netsh int ip reset
-
ipconfig /release
-
pconfig /renew
-
ipconfig /flushdns
- I reset Windows. No wired internet.
- I reinstalled Windows all together with nothing kept on the OS drive. No wired internet.
- I pulled everything from the router, unpowered, reset (not factory reset). Left it a few minutes and reconnected. Nothing.
Considering the PC2 works fine with the router and without it, on the direct connection, I'm thinking the problem is at PC1. I would exclude a driver issue, as I reinstalled a clean Windows.
I am out of ideas. It might be a setting from BIOS? Maybe something physical happened with the motherboard?
What details should I provide more? Please bare in mind I'm a novice in everything computer related.
Thank you for any help.
with the same length and structure:
It shows:
Windows IP Configuration
Host Name . . . . . . . . . . . : DESKTOP-4HPAE04
Primary Dns Suffix . . . . . . . : No
Node Type . . . . . . . . . . . : Hybrid
IP Routing Enabled. . . . . . . . : No
WINS Proxy Enabled. . . . . . . . : No
Ethernet adapter Ethernet:
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . : Realtek PCIe 2.5GbE Family Controller
Physical Address. . . . . . . . : 10-FF-E0-85-C4-EC
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . : Yes
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . : Yes
Link-local IPv6 Address . . . . : fe80::24e4:3cba:a2ff:9b7a%13(Preferred)
Autoconfiguration IPv4 Address. . : 169.254.75.251(Preferred)
Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.0.0
Default Gateway . . . . . . . :
DHCPv6 IAID . . . . . . . . . : 219217888
DHCPv6 Client DUID. . . . . . . . : 00-01-00-01-2F-7D-48-BD-10-FF-E0-85-C4-EC
DNS Servers . . . . . . . . . : fec0:0:0:ffff::1%1
fec0:0:0:ffff::2%1
fec0:0:0:ffff::3%1
NetBIOS over Tcpip. . . . . . . . : Enabled
Wireless LAN adapter Local Area Connection* 1:
Media State . . . . . . . . . . : Disconnected
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . : Microsoft Wi-Fi Direct Virtual Adapter
Physical Address. . . . . . . . : BE-C7-46-EE-BB-B7
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . : Yes
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . : Yes
Wireless LAN adapter Local Area Connection* 2:
Media State . . . . . . . . . : Disconnected
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . : Microsoft Wi-Fi Direct Virtual Adapter #2
Physical Address. . . . . . . . : B2-C7-46-EE-BB-B7
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . : Yes
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . : Yes
Wireless LAN adapter Wi-Fi:
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . : Realtek 8852CE WiFi 6E PCI-E NIC
Physical Address. . . . . . . . : BC-C7-46-EE-BB-B7
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . : Yes
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . : Yes
Link-local IPv6 Address . . . . : fe80::a376:ba72:4ada:37ac%5(Preferred)
IPv4 Address. . . . . . . . . : 192.168.0.115(Preferred)
Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0
Lease Obtained. . . . . . . . : Tuesday, April 1, 2025 9:13:19 AM
Lease Expires. . . . . . . . : Tuesday, April 1, 2025 11:13:19 AM
Default Gateway . . . . . . . : 192.168.0.1
DHCP Server . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.0.1
DHCPv6 IAID . . . . . . . . : 79480646
DHCPv6 Client DUID. . . . . . . . : 00-01-00-01-2F-7D-48-BD-10-FF-E0-85-C4-EC
DNS Servers . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.0.1
NetBIOS over Tcpip. . . . . . . . : Enabled
Ethernet adapter Bluetooth Network Connection:
Media State . . . . . . . . . . : Disconnected
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . : Bluetooth Device (Personal Area Network)
Physical Address. . . . . . . . : BC-C7-46-EE-E6-F0
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . : Yes
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . : Yes
check if manually configuring a static ip without dhcp for the wired ethernet resolves the issue
I tested the troubleshooter on the Ethernet network using both automatic and manually assigned IP addresses. I received these messages.
In the second image, what I see in the network is an unidentified network, which appears to be my wiring through the router.
The bottom picture shows the static IP example from a tutorial on tp-link.com.
The "ipconfig /all" outputs are showing clear information.
1) Both the connected wired and wireless adapters are active. Only one adapter should be active; wired connections are better than wireless ones.
2) The wired adapter seems incorrectly set up. For instance, the subnet is 255.255.0.0. In most small networks this would be ideal unless a static IP is required. Unless a specific need exists, the router should assign a DHCP address to PC1. The router’s IP is 192.168.0.1 with a subnet mask of 255.255.255.0 – typical for many small setups. (Variations exist: some routers use 192.168.1.1 with the same subnet.) Users can adjust settings themselves instead of relying on default values.
3) IPv6 is turned on, which can cause issues for many users. Turn it off.
4) The wireless settings show a lease duration of just two hours. This isn’t inherently wrong, but it’s usually longer than desired. Adjust it to a week or more as the router allows. The time should be set in minutes, hours, or days via the admin panel. The lease is managed through the router’s configuration interface. Anyone with admin privileges must update this setting.
Wireless works since the Wi-Fi adapter is linked to the router (192.168.0.1/255.255.255.0) and receives a DHCP IP of 192.168.0.115. Note that the DHCP address may change based on availability in the router’s settings.
What to do:
Keep the wireless adapter unchanged—do not modify it.
Update the wired adapter to match the network/router configuration. Use other wired devices as a reference for their "ipconfig /all" output. Differences are likely limited to DHCP IP and MAC addresses.
Switch the wireless adapter off, activate the wired one, and restart the device.
Document the changes you made, including original and new values, and capture screenshots for your records.
Pause the lease time adjustment until now. The main goal is to secure a functional wired connection.
[Based on the recent screenshots, consider getting an IP address automatically from your router at 192.168.0.1.]
I understand your point with Ralston18, but you shouldn't enable both Ethernet and Wi-Fi simultaneously. Windows usually handles this well enough. It seems to recognize that Ethernet is generally faster than Wi-Fi, though it can make mistakes sometimes. There are also settings that influence these choices. When everything functions properly, it’s a useful feature. However, it’s unusual for the Ethernet port not to receive an IP address from the router’s DHCP server. Normally, when multiple interfaces are active, they each get distinct IP addresses. The router doesn’t recognize them as the same device, so if this were working correctly, both connections should show valid addresses. You’d then need to investigate further to determine which interface was actually used. DHCP is a straightforward process, and since Wi-Fi is functioning and other devices are working, the issue likely lies with your computer. For testing, you could disable Wi-Fi and assign a static IP—192.168.0.250 seems like a good candidate. Use 255.255.255.0 as the mask and 192.168.0.1 as the gateway. Then try pinging that IP address. If it responds, you can proceed to troubleshoot the DHCP problem or stick with the static IP. If it fails with a static IP, the issue might be with the port drivers, which have had some bugs over the years, though recent updates have largely resolved them. I recommend checking the latest Realtek driver for your system.