Plan your home network effectively for optimal performance.
Plan your home network effectively for optimal performance.
I'm planning a three-story home with about 3,200 square feet and need to set up my internet connection. I'm checking if the suggested setup—modem, managed switch, TP-Link TL-SG1016PE, and two PoE-powered WAPs—will work. Any adjustments or alternatives you recommend?
Since you're already using PoE, why go wireless? That still looks quite strong. Compare it to setups from other firms such as Netgear and Ubiquiti.
assuming the modem also functions as a router, that's fine. otherwise, connect a router between the modem and the switch. under the topic, here are some extra ideas if you haven't considered them yet: - organize all your network cables (or better yet, every cable) inside conduits. a well-built house can last a century, but your network wiring won’t. plan from the beginning that you’ll eventually replace it. - install conduit with a pull string in nearly every room. you might not use it right away, but it will become necessary later. - place a large wooden panel on the wall at the entry point for all cabling coming from the rest of the house. it’s impressive not having to drill into concrete to mount new gear (since you’ll replace it eventually). i don’t understand what you’re suggesting with this part. the main goal of PoE is delivering power to wireless devices...
All the wiring should be inside the conduit. This would be really costly and time-consuming. There are specific spots in the house where it makes sense, but not at all—this is way too much. Your electrician might get upset. It’s fine for big commercial builds, but not necessary for homes. Cat6a can last a long time, and unless the cables go outside, they shouldn’t degrade inside walls or ceilings. I’ve worked on many houses over 50 years old with old copper lines; as long as they’re inside, they stay intact and aren’t corroded (just for voice, not for today’s networks). It’s copper wrapped in plastic—this is unlikely to last much longer than untreated wood. If you’re concerned about future networking upgrades, add more wires during construction, like two per spot instead of one. Just run it wherever you think you might need it later. The only real need would be for higher-speed devices and internal speeds, but I’d evaluate each spot based on its location relative to your network equipment and nearby offices or data centers. Otherwise, yes—install a router between the modem and switch. Using wood boards is smart; if your LV panel is in a closet, keep wires above the shelf so your gear stays safe. Just ensure your electrician adds extra outlets near where the wires connect, especially if you’re not using a wall-mounted panel for the LV system.
Thanks for sharing your setup! It sounds like you're optimizing for cost and efficiency now. The UDM setup does simplify things—no separate router needed, just using APs together. Just make sure to check if your devices support all-in-one configurations.
many cables are sold on spools inside conduits. in my family home everything comes from conduits. yes, it costs more upfront, but it looks great even after 10 years. also, things like this—straight up not practical for building a house that should last a century—are just unrealistic. that’s like someone in the 90s putting coax under the wall thinking “this will be really good forever.” To be honest, here at least, all main services need to be in conduits no matter what.
Without knowing your location is ridiculous — the effort required would be unreal. In a new construction, wiring is hidden between the studs and never exposed again (unlike the bare copper of earlier decades). You're likely misunderstanding your family home. Also, imagining building a house you'll never open up in a century is wild. For now, consider conduit behind TVs for future media needs or run it from utility rooms to key spots. But for every single outlet, you'd need a lot of work. An experienced electrician would probably just charge a premium. OP should use CAT6a wiring. That's the right choice.
it's the same effort involved. the cable is delivered in conduit, so order it that way. it stays on the spool inside the conduit, then goes into the wall through the conduit, and finally connects to the outlet boxes also in conduit. i don’t recommend this because we often run into issues with the conduit—there’s just one cable that isn’t in conduit anymore. it’s an old CAT5e model that was supposed to last a long time, but now it’s slowing us down. it’s the only one that can handle POE+ over its length, and it’s the one leading to the new access point. i’d replace it, but it requires many straps, a crawlspace trip, and possibly tearing up some flooring in the living room—resulting in poor Wi-Fi. you don’t have to do this unless everything behind it can stay put. i’m not saying avoid drywall removal, but it’s pointless if you already know it’ll become obsolete soon. also, don’t assume upgrading is easy just because you think about it now. it’s like having to replace the bumper every time you change oil—possible, but better to plan for it upfront.
designing the system so the oil filter is accessible avoids extra hassle, and you’re aware it will need future work.
pre-wired conduit with CAT6A isn’t readily available, and I won’t waste time searching DIY stores just to prove a point. the conduit around our home is inexpensive—under a dollar per meter online. buying it in bulk could save money, and pre-wired options are usually cheaper than adding both cable and conduit later.
if you install a kilometer of conduit, expect an extra $500 on the billing line. and since you can buy wire in conduit, the electrician’s job drops significantly—especially for low-voltage work where certification isn’t required. i’m confident the first time you need to cut through drywall, it’ll be worth it.
you’ll pay back that $500 quickly, either during the wall installation or after painting.