passive cooling tdp to rad size
passive cooling tdp to rad size
Iv got a 1080ti with a 5930k when I first expected it to be much quieter due to the amount of rad space. I was aiming for passive cooling. The main concern is determining how much rad space is needed per 100w at a desired tdp for passive operation.
the goal is to balance the temperature from cold plate (GPU + VRAM + VRM direct contact plate) to hot plate (aluminum fins), focusing on how quickly room temperature (25 deg C) reduces the fins or similar surfaces. Implementing the approach you mentioned demands a large surface area; passive cooling PC cases exist (the cold plate channels heat via a heat pipe and uses the case body as an exchanger), though they may be difficult to obtain.
All GTX 1080Ti PCB designs (NVIDIA reference boards, tall PC boards like ASUS Strix or EVGA FTW, etc.) include hot VRM that also require adequate active cooling. It seems unclear if any passive case is available to cool both the CPU and GTX 1080Ti effectively.
A BeQuiet silent wing 3 fan provides better noise performance relative to other fans in this setup.
the goal is to balance the temperature between cold plate (GPU plus VRAM and VRM in direct contact) and hot plate (aluminum fins). The concern is how quickly room temperature (25°C) reduces the fins or similar surfaces. Following your suggestion demands a large surface area, passive cooling PC cases exist—like those with channels for heat pipes and case body as exchangers—but they’re difficult to find.
All GTX 1080Ti PCB designs (NVIDIA reference boards, ASUS Strix, EVGA models, etc.) include hot VRM that also require active cooling. It’s unclear if any passive case is available to cool both the CPU and GTX 1080Ti effectively.
BeQuiet silent wing 3 fan provides better noise performance than other fans on radiators, allowing effective GPU cooling with liquid nitrogen, EKWB waterblock, and EVGA GTX 1080Ti K|NGP|N.
Initially, things aren't that straightforward. You need to think about air movement, pump size, temperature levels, and noise from the pump and power supply. I currently have four suggestions:
1. Opt for a soundproof or isolated enclosure.
2. Install a tiny Peltier device with a passive heatsink on top to cool the water. This could help replace fans, but it needs some modification skills.
3. Use fans that produce less than 20dB, making them almost inaudible.
4. Opt for headphones or extend cables while keeping the case farther away.
Watercooling wasn't originally intended as a fanless or passive setup just because of the design of water cooling radiators. These radiators are small, packed with fins and tubes, and they really need airflow to effectively move heat away using coolant. As discussed earlier, even low-speed fans can make a significant impact, but achieving passivity is unlikely. Therefore, using fans and adjusting fan curves with PWM controllers seems like a more viable solution.