No, you don't have to replace the router due to THICC walls.
No, you don't have to replace the router due to THICC walls.
She often mentions that despite our 100mbps plan, the loading bar stays visible longer than expected. Most of the devices on the first floor are browsing social media sites like YouTube, Facebook, and Instagram. The setup looks like the network we have at home. Our router is a Tenda F3 model.
Obtain a signal repeater would definitely help, right? I’d rather set it up for a hotspot instead.
TP Link offers high-quality, budget-friendly range extenders and access points that I find worth considering.
It's constructed from various routers connected together on the same network, such as from the ISP equipment to the Tenda F3s, all set up with their standard routing settings. This setup could lead to NAT complications. What was your intention? Could you tell me the model of the ISP device?
You're building your network with cement walls about 4 inches thick, and you're adding a router on the first floor because Wi-Fi coverage isn't there. It's a custom setup using your ISP's BT service. A mesh network could be a good idea for better coverage across your home.
Choosing a new router offers limited improvement. The thicker the material, the weaker the Wi-Fi signal becomes, reducing both coverage and speed. You’re bound by the rules of physics. If you’re not using 2.4 GHz yet, you might have some options, but overall there’s little you can do.
This device acts as a fiber gateway with an integrated router. Adding another gadget afterward might break its routing capabilities, leading to NAT problems. Best practice is to set the Tenda F3s in AP mode using static LAN IPs outside your ISP's DHCP range. Adjust each F3's WiFi settings so their 2.4GHz and 5GHz signals don't overlap or clash with neighboring networks. WiFi Analyzer can assist in checking channel usage.