New Build Without Display Including 40 Series Cards
New Build Without Display Including 40 Series Cards
I've assembled several units, yet this most recent attempt has left me perplexed! I've attempted all possible solutions so far, hoping you might offer insights I haven't considered. My goal is simply to ensure the computer consistently displays BIOS information.
Parts list:
12600K
Gigabyte B660M DS3H AX Mini-ATX DDR4
Crucial 32GB 2x kit DDR4 3200
Thermalright Assassin Air Cooler
Samsung 980 Pro 1TB
Apevia Jupiter 800w PSU
MSI 4060 TI
Sama Mini-ATX Tower
After finishing the build, I couldn't see BIOS on my monitor (no signal). I changed the DP cable to HDMI without any effect. Connecting an HDMI cable to the motherboard still allowed me to view BIOS. I verified the BIOS settings: Resizable Bar was enabled, Primary Graphics set to PCIE. Despite these adjustments, the video card still wouldn't post.
Suspecting the 4060 TI, I removed it and connected it to my gaming rig, which immediately displayed BIOS. Testing with a 4070 from my gaming system also worked—no display on BIOS.
I replaced the 4060 TI with an old RX580 (8pin power), and it functioned correctly. BIOS appeared on multiple occasions. Returning to 40 series cards, I used a known good Thermaltake PSU, but still no display. Everything else lights up—keyboard, mouse—and the PC responds as expected.
My initial conclusion is that the 40 series cards weren't compatible with the older 600 series Gigabyte board. Since my motherboard was a dozen revisions behind and the F22 version had compatibility fixes for 30 series cards, I upgraded to the latest F23 model. No changes made. Frustrated, I contacted NewEgg (Great CS) and initiated an RMA.
I overnighted an Asus B760M-A AX D4 Prime, and the behavior persisted. Setting PEG as the primary display ensures BIOS appears on next boot, but powering down leaves the display inactive until I reconfigure it in BIOS. Adjust the cable to the motherboard port, change the primary display to PEG, press F10 and save, then quickly switch back to the 4060TI to restore the display.
So far, I haven't altered Memory or CPU settings. At this early stage, it seems only the CPU is interfering. I could try Corsair memory, but what else can I do? I've swapped the motherboard, PSU, and tested the graphics cards in another system. I'm close to sending the CPU back for a replacement. Any advice would be appreciated?
Occasionally, simply updating the BIOS isn't sufficient; a hard reset is also required. I would try a hard reset first and check if the 40 series card is recognized. Ensure the card is the initial one used after the reset.
Do not skip or alter any of the steps. Follow them precisely as described.
BIOS Hard Reset process
Turn off the device, disconnect the power supply and unplug the PSU cable from the wall or power source.
Take out the CMOS battery on the motherboard for roughly three to five minutes. In certain situations, you might need to remove the graphics card to access the CMOS battery.
While the battery is removed, keep pressing the power button on the case continuously for 15-30 seconds to drain any remaining charge in the CMOS circuit. Once the five minutes are complete, reinsert the battery and make sure it goes in the correct orientation as it was removed.
If you had to remove the graphics card, you can reinstall it now, but be sure to reconnect any power cables or display cable that were connected before.
Reattach the PSU cable, turn the power supply back on, and restart the system. It should show the POST screen with options to set up CMOS/BIOS. Enter the BIOS setup program and adjust the boot settings for Windows Boot Manager or legacy systems, depending on your OS installation.
Save your changes and exit. If the system successfully POSTs and boots, you can proceed further, including returning to the BIOS to configure additional settings such as Memory XMP, A-XMP, D.O.C.P profiles, fan profiles, or other custom configurations that may have been lost during the reset.
In certain scenarios, after entering the BIOS, it might be necessary to load the Optimal or Default values and then save your settings to fully reset the BIOS and recreate the hardware tables.
Prior to this, I replaced my CPU with a verified one. No video appeared afterward. The motherboard lacks a CMOS battery. I reset it by using the jumper for ten seconds. I haven’t encountered a motherboard without a CMOS battery before. I’m uncertain about further steps to clear it.
It has a CMOS battery, which you can easily observe in the picture below next to the main PCIe port. To reach the CMOS battery, you must take out the graphics card. The jumper pin method isn't the same; it didn't work more than 100 times, while using the CMOS battery and performing a hard reset did succeed in many cases.
The image you shared shows a B760M-A AX D4. You mentioned having a B660M DS3H D4 listed in your specifications. Therefore, which board are you actually using?
In my initial message, I mentioned that I had returned the B660 to address the problem. Please let me know if you need anything clarified.
It seems there are two distinct boards functioning identically. It’s unlikely this is related to a board or BIOS problem.
What exact model of your Crucial memory kit do you have?
The situation here suggests the power supply is the most likely culprit. Apevia is known for producing some of the poorest PSUs on the market, with few models that perform adequately. I haven’t come across any review of an Apevia power supply that even meets basic standards, let alone good ones. Because both builds use the same PSU, it increases the chances significantly. In my opinion, this is where I should begin, and you’ll likely see a clear agreement among reviews about Apevia power supplies being generally low quality and unreliable.
Good to know! The experiments I conducted today: Swapped the PSU for a Thermaltake Smart 600w – no difference in performance. Used a single stick Crucial 16gb memory in Slot 2/4 – no change observed. Installed a single stick Corsair Dominator 8gb memory in slot 2/4 – no change. Set up a dual channel Corsair Dominator (16gb total) – still no alteration in behavior. And... drum roll please... I removed the 13600k from my main system and installed it on the new motherboard – no behavioral shift. All parts have been replaced, and I was close to giving up. But an article I read here offered some encouragement: I updated to Windows 11 and plan to apply the patch/patch after work, hoping it resolves the firmware issue. I’m optimistic since it’s affecting both of my 40 series cards...