Need a replacement switch and some routers? Anyone willing to assist?
Need a replacement switch and some routers? Anyone willing to assist?
I recently relocated and am dealing with a few challenges. First, I need a replacement switch to replace the one that was taken out so the wiring functions properly. Second, the walls are packed with concrete and metal, making Wi-Fi coverage poor—this would be an exaggeration if not true. Lastly, the cable box for my TV requires a direct connection to the ISP modem/router; otherwise, it won’t work at all. Overall, these tasks seem a bit complex, but I’m trying to handle them as best I can. The first and last points shouldn’t be too tough, as a large enough switch (12-24 ports) should address both problems simultaneously. Since I need new routers, I thought it would help to discuss the issues together so we could find a cohesive solution. Regarding the setup, the ISP router is at the front, covering most of the house, but the newest additions appear completely blocked. I suspect the dense materials are causing the blockage. The ISP box is in the newer section, and I only have one cable from the old switch to the modem. I’m unsure if Wi-Fi can pass through the floor—multiple routers might be needed. I’m considering a router that can mimic the ISP modem and provide a pass-through on Ethernet ports, though I have no certainty. It would be great if all devices shared the same Wi-Fi connection so guests don’t have to switch networks. If anyone has experience with this, I’d appreciate any advice or a guide on how to spoof the modem. A unified network would be ideal, and it would save me from constantly changing connections. A nice bonus would be having a single router handle everything across the whole house, eliminating the need for multiple devices to connect separately. Money isn’t a concern as long as I get good value, and I live in Europe—though that might affect availability. Thanks a lot ahead of anyone who helped with this!
You should use several wireless access points to boost coverage, not just routers. This can be done by switching existing routers into AP mode and ensuring identical SSIDs across non-overlapping channels for both 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands. Alternatively, purchase dedicated APs that connect directly to the switch via Ethernet. A smarter choice is an SDN-based system that smoothly switches between APs, preventing connection drops for mobile users. Options include Ubiquiti UniFi and TP-Link Omada.
Confusion is arising here. The Wi-Fi router and Ethernet routers are mixing signals. Wi-Fi sometimes works through thick materials but usually struggles, while Ethernet needs proper wiring—often concrete or special conduits. There’s a device called a diversibit that handles both at once; it can be bulky, essentially a long spade bit. I tend to just buy the extensions and swap in different adapters for cost savings. There are also Wi-Fi extenders that pick up weak signals and boost them, helping around corners. I’m not sure if that would help with your issue. From what you described, it seems like the problem is limited to one spot. You might try moving around the perimeter of your home or placing a repeater in the gap between rooms. If the support beams are aligned correctly, you could run a cable through that space and connect it near the TV area.
My understanding is still limited, but I’d appreciate the chance to run a few cables from here. This would let me connect the TV and box directly via wired connection instead of relying on Wi-Fi. I’m hoping it could work best when the router’s signal boosts the Wi-Fi as well. I’m worried about whether the TV box will accept a cable from another router than the ISP’s, especially if it’s set to AP mode—does it also affect the wired access point or just Wi-Fi? Updated September 2, 2021 by Brumbo, more details added.
For navigating obstacles beneath carpet can be quite practical. It’s straightforward even when the floor is continuous. There’s also a product called wiremold that assists—metal channels you attach to solid surfaces. Some folks avoid it because they find it looks unappealing. For actually penetrating materials instead of circling around, I’ve used a Diversibit. Make sure to obtain necessary approvals from property owners or local authorities if you’re working in an apartment or condo, especially when dealing with concrete. Local regulations might also apply. Be careful not to damage pipes, wiring, or important structures. You might find rental tools at nearby hardware stores.
I believe the simplest solution would be to set up a router with both wired and wireless connections in the closet, connected via an Ethernet port. From there, you can link wires to your TV and other devices (refer to the pictures). However, I also need the Wi-Fi signal to be stronger throughout the house since the walls interfere with it. The main challenges are installing a switch between the ISP modem and the router, and configuring the TV box to use only a direct Ethernet connection from the ISP router. I think you’d want to configure the router as a switch for cables and a wireless access point for mobile devices.
Consider using a single Wi-Fi repeater to extend the signal and cover the same area.
The main problem is that I usually receive just a single Wi-Fi signal, sometimes none at all, which means the connection might not be powerful enough to work properly.
The switch connects after the router to add more Ethernet connections. Depending on the ISP device, certain ports might be needed for specific VLANs or IPTV traffic. I've experienced this with my fiber provider's equipment, which handles internet, phone, and TV through one unit. It's best to maintain a clear connection between the TV box and the ISP device. "Spoof" isn't the right term here. You can mimic the SSID and some WiFi settings, but you must avoid overlapping channels as discussed earlier. This approach ensures the functionality of Ethernet ports remains intact.