My PC is shutting down during a power outage even though it's connected to a UPS ?
My PC is shutting down during a power outage even though it's connected to a UPS ?
Hello, I'm facing a problem where my PC shuts down during power outages even though it's connected to a UPS. I'm using the same UPS on several 3D printers that draw more power than my PC uses when idle. A lot of my work has been lost because of this issue. Here are the details about my UPS model:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429...UTF8&psc=1
System specifications:
CPU: i9-10900k
GPU: evga 3090 hybrid
RAM: 32gb Kingston
PSU: Enermax 1200w platinum
My PC usage during work sessions is...
The item’s instructions mention a 2.5-minute runtime under full load, but warn that overloading may reduce this time. The screen likely displays the expected duration during a power failure.
During a power cut with only my workload active, it displays 15 minutes for battery life and a 60% load. This duration should be sufficient to shut down my PC, modem, and desk lamp linked to the UPS, which remain operational. The computer will power off immediately and then restart right away. Current load and UPS details are provided.
Batteries inevitably stop working. Have you changed the battery?
Does your UPS have a self-test feature? My UPS units routinely perform a self-test each week, and temporarily switch the output to battery for a short period while the main power is stable. If the UPS identifies rapid battery drain, it will fail the self-test.
It passes the battery test, but the PC turns off when under load. Running a printer at 600w keeps it running, yet the PC drawing 300w causes it to shut down. I suspect a UPS problem. I've used ten of these units for printers and switched them out with the PC, but the issue remains.
You'll need to purchase a different UPS. It might be that the transfer speed is too low and voltage fluctuations occur, causing the PC to fail. I suggest using a double conversion UPS. This ensures the load always runs on AC generated from DC—either internally or via battery DC. I currently use the APC Smart-Online 1500 UPS and monitor it remotely with an Ethernet card.
I don't understand why I didn't think to test this before, but it looks like my PSU can't manage the switchover. I just ran a test on my wife's PC, which has similar specs except a 3080 and a Seagate 1200w PSU, and it still works when I unplug the UPS.
Understanding how intricate this setup is, it’s clear you’re dealing with a 1200W PSU connected to a 1000W UPS. Obviously, you aren’t always operating at maximum power draw, yet this alone suggests you might need a bigger UPS for your PC. Most trusted brands offer calculators on-site to assist in selecting the right equipment.
It’s worth noting that if all backups are powered from the same circuit, there could be a problem with insufficient overall power supply. Have you considered transferring some loads to another circuit (unless you’re already doing so)?
Are your PC and backup devices running on an extension cord or power strip?
Do you have any peripherals that can be safely disconnected from the backup circuit while keeping the PC and screen operational?
All ten printers are connected to three different circuits compared to my PC. As mentioned in the previous comment, my PC uses the same rated PSU as these printers, though a different brand, and it doesn't shut down. I'm considering the EnerMax PSU might not be able to handle the switchover.
The 3090 consumes more power than the 3080. You might be correct. People have asked about the replacement batteries. I've been using an APC branded rack style power supply for years. It's a robust unit, and I got it at a good price by finding a place to store it. Recently, I had to replace the batteries, even though APC lists the manufacturer's recommended battery on their website. I couldn't locate them anywhere. The manufacturer's recommended battery is a pair of 12V 9AH batteries. I reduced the unit's voltage to 12V 7AH and it functioned properly, though with slightly reduced runtime. I'm not very familiar with this model, so I don't know the exact setup or configuration of the batteries. If you're comfortable with low-voltage and series connections, you might want to try a larger set of batteries that fit. You can find F-connector style batteries everywhere. If you're unsure about the connection type or the power output of a battery, it's best not to attempt it—those batteries could deliver enough current to cause serious harm.