Make sure your build works properly
Make sure your build works properly
Hi guys!
I am new in bulding pcs and would like to get an opinion on my configured build. I am not going to overclock, just want to play all the new games in high fps and don't want to worrie about soon needed upgrades
Maybe someone has some good tips or knows anything, which I forgot about. I am happy about every answer and advices!
Here are my components:
https://ibb.co/vBwF0TB
AMD Ryzen 9 7950X3D
G.Skill Trident Z5 NEO RGB schwarz DIMM Kit 32GB, DDR5-6000, CL36-36-36-96, on-die ECC
GIGABYTE GeForce RTX 4080 SUPER Aero OC 16G, 16GB GDDR6X, HDMI, 3x DP
MSI MAG X670E Tomahawk WIFI
Lian Li Galahad II Trinity 360 White
be quiet! Straight Power 12 850W ATX 3.0
And my Case, which I already have at home:
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0CHP77RDG?ref=...asin_title
Welcome to the forums, newcomer!
You could've compiled your parts list on a site like this;
https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/
just want to play all the new games in high fps and don't want to worrie about soon needed upgrades
So far your build looks fine but if it's possible to make tweaks to your build, can you specify what your aboslute budget is for the build? Including all the titles you want to tax the build with without an etc would help the community in suggestions towards you/your build.
One thing though, you forgot to include the make and model of your case for your build. One part that you could swap out, is go for a B650 chipset board. What sort of features are you looking at on the X670 chipset/platform?
Moved thread from Components section to Systems section.
Hi, thanks for the update!
The current cost is around 2700€, but I’m open to spending more if the value is right. A better GPU, like a 4090, doesn’t seem worth it to me.
I also prefer not to buy an Asus motherboard since there have been many issues with RAM and power supplies.
My situation is fine—I found it appealing and it was on sale on Amazon.
CPS C3T500 ARGB Sales Kit Tower ATX-Case from PCCOOLER
I believe there is potential to purchase higher-quality components instead of paying more. As discussed earlier, opting for a solid B650 board instead of a X670 would provide similar performance while saving some costs. If you are focused on gaming, a 7800x3d might be a more suitable option, although the prices for these models have recently increased due to the upcoming release of 9000 x3d parts. If you have time to wait, I would monitor these options to assess the value in terms of performance and price.
I’m unfamiliar with this case but it seems to be another Lian li O11 clone, which most companies now offer, though few match the original’s build quality. Although I recently built a PC for a friend using a Hyte Y70 and found that felt premium, I used a white O11D EVO, which was also a good case. I’m not certain about the price you’re spending on this case from Amazon—it might be acceptable—but I would personally prefer an original case to ensure better airflow and build quality.
Is the goal to achieve a mostly white build?
A white build would be great, but I’m not keen on adding a few hundred euros just for the color. The case seems to be a copy, right? I invested 140€ with the fans included. The original price was around 180€ and the fans weren’t part of the cost. I noticed the B650 only supports PCIe 4.0, while the X670 has PCIe 5.0. I thought maybe in a few years I’d just need a new GPU and wouldn’t have to worry about a new mainboard. DDR5 RAM is another tech that won’t change much in the next five years, so it was also important to me.
That is understandable. White builds do tend to cost a little more and it is purely aesthetics.
Have you already bought all of the components listed and are just asking if they are ok or is there still some bits to get and you have bought some of them - like the case?
The case may well be perfectly fine and if you bought it then enjoy it. You do get 6 fans and so it should be OK for airflow. The reviews suggest the main problems are the rats nest of rgb cables but this is common with any RGB fans.
Pcie 5 is still a long way off for graphics cards in my opinion as we are not even saturating a pcie 4 interface yet. A 4090 only loses a few % on a pcie 3 interface so I wouldn't worry too much about this. In terms of storage drives then again unless you are just doing benchmarking you wouldn't notice the difference in day to day performance and certainly not in games. I would save the money and possibly use it to get a bigger storage drive for games, a beefier PSU or something else. Again this is personal preference.
Regarding ASUS motherboards then I am unsure of any real issues other than the recent RMA situation which was a bit naughty of them. I have only used ASUS motherboards for my personal builds and they have never had any issues at all. I will likely use them again for my next but there are plenty of other good boards out there that if you don't feel comfortable then you can leave them out the equation
I haven't purchased any parts yet, only received some m.2 drives. I can also return the case I already bought. Using the prime days, I noticed this case was reduced by about 40€. Three of the fans will be replaced anyway with water cooling for the CPU. I'm open to better suggestions like you did on the mainboard.
I would consider giving it a try since it seems quite manageable. There are some small diamonds available that aren't branded. Keep an eye on minor details such as dust filters, which can be added if needed. Depending on the radiator placement, you might be able to use all fans along with the AIO. I usually go for intake fans but many people opt for exhaust fans. Both options have their advantages and disadvantages. I often run a lot of fans but keep them at lower RPMs to reduce noise. You should check what the fans included in the case are like—they claim they’re PMW and should be adjustable.
A 850w unit should work well, though I haven’t checked the total power consumption of all your parts. I mostly use Corsair RMx power supplies because they’ve performed reliably. My current PSU is nearly 9 years old and will need replacement before its warranty ends. Avoid getting too close to maximum output, as there could be short-term spikes from components. There’s a solid tier list on the forum, and choosing an A-tier PSU should give you better reliability and longer warranty coverage. The next step after 850w is probably around 1000w, even though I might not need it right now, just to be safe.
Here are your choices for positioning the AIO. You considered swapping them with the bottom units and wondered about different placements. You asked if it makes sense to put it in front of the glass to prevent outside air from entering. Your preference is for intake, but you're aware many use exhaust systems. This explanation will clarify those options.
You don't want the AIO radiator at the bottom because it would likely make the pump the highest point in the loop. Most AIOs place the pump in the CPU block, and having air around it isn’t ideal for long-term pump life, cooling performance, or noise. The best setup is to position the radiator either in front/side to bring cool air in from outside the case, or on top as an exhaust to remove warm air from inside. Usually, if you use an intake, your GPU might run a few degrees hotter, and with an exhaust, your CPU could be slightly warmer. There are some excellent YouTube videos explaining this topic—Gamers Nexus did a thorough one, and Jayz2cents also posted a simpler version. Just search for AIO radiator placement.
With the case design, choosing a 360-degree model often means you’ll need an exhaust at the top due to the side mount limit of about 240 mm. It’s a balance, but good airflow usually makes a noticeable difference.
A few AIOs place the pump inside the radiator, allowing bottom mounting, but you must consider the tube length between the CPU and the radiator mounts.
Hope this clarifies things.