Lots of problems come up right after I put a new motherboard, processor, and memory in?
Lots of problems come up right after I put a new motherboard, processor, and memory in?
I no longer need help because I installed a new SSD and started fresh with Windows on it. Everything works great right now. About two months ago, I upgraded some big parts of my computer. Since then, I've been having annoying problems. Before everything worked fine. Sometimes when using the mouse or keyboard—especially in games—they stop working. The screen freezes for a few seconds, then both the keyboard and mouse get stuck on what they clicked before freezing starts. The mouse moves suddenly in random directions. When I restart my PC, my keyboard disconnects and I have to unplug and plug it back in to use it again. (The mouse turns on but won't work; the keyboard shuts off after a few seconds of being turned on.) I have a Tourbox, which is a drawing controller plugged into USB. It sometimes stops working completely and I have to unplug and replug it to make it work. I already replaced my RAM with brand-new sticks from a different company and bought a new motherboard from Asus under warranty. I've tried updating all the drivers and doing temperature checks while playing, but nothing looks strange or out of the ordinary. I also tried using other keyboards and mice in different USB ports. Nothing has fixed it. Maybe this is unrelated, just in case it's related to something else. While playing Overwatch, the game crashes randomly during matches. Only this one game has that issue, though it suffers from all the other problems listed above. Motherboard: Asus Tuf Gaming B650-E Wifi, BIOS: American Megatrends Inc., 32GB RAM: Corsair Vengeance 32GB DDR5-6000 CL36 CPU: Ryzen 7 7800X3D Cooler: NZXT Kraken 240 GPU: Radeon RX 7800 XT PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 650 GM, 80 Plus Gold (I don't know the wattage rating, maybe 8 years minimum). Chassis: Hyte Y60. OS: Windows 11 Monitors: Dell S3222DGM, Dell S2721HGF SSD/HDD: Samsung 98- Pro 2 TB M.2 2280 PCIe 4.0, Samsung 970 Evo Plus 500 GB, Seagate Barracuda St2000DM08-2FR102 (Windows main).
Welcome to the forum, new friend! Did you restart or reinstall the operating system after upgrading or swapping parts? If not, that might be why things are broken here on the site. Here are some details about your computer setup: Motherboard is an Asus Tuf Gaming B650-E with Wi-Fi, RAM is Corsair Vengeance 32GB DDR5 running at 6000MHz and low latency (CL36). CPU is a Ryzen 7 7800X3D, GPU is a Radeon RX 7800 XT. Just to clarify: I bought this whole thing after some problems happened before because my old card was a 3060 Ti when I swapped things out. When you post a question here about fixing something, it's common practice to tell us all the parts you have. Please list your specs like this so we can see them clearly: CPU and cooler: Motherboard: RAM: Hard drive or SSD: GPU: Power supply unit (and if possible, note how old it is besides its make and model number): BIOS version for your motherboard right now. Also moved this thread from the "Components" section to the "Systems" section so everyone looks in the right place.
Are you running your RAM at XMP/EXPO/DOCP 6000MT/s or at the JEDEC default of 4800MT/s? If you are overclocking your RAM, turn off DOCP (Asus BIOS) and check stability at 4800MT/s. I suggest booting the computer from a USB flash drive that contains MemTest86 and let it run for at least one full pass (2 to 4 hours). Repeat a complete MemTest86 test scan at every RAM speed you set in the BIOS, like at 4800MT/s or 6000MT/s. Aim for zero errors in MemTest86. Even one error means your RAM is not stable. https://www.memtest86.com/ If 6000MT/s is unstable in MemTest86, learn how to manually overclock the RAM and try 5200MT/s, 5400MT/s, 5600MT/s, 5800MT/s until you start getting errors in MemTest86. Then slow down the speed by at least 200MT/s to get a stable setting. Slower steady memory is much more important than flaky high speed settings. According to CPU World, the 7800X3D is "guaranteed" up to 5200MT/s. You might be running your CPU's Integrated Memory Controller channels too fast if you use 6000MT/s. There is a skill to overclock RAM and automatic XMP settings don't always work. https://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/Zen/AMD-Ryzen 7 7800X3D.html Memory controller Memory channels (total): 2 Supported memory: DDR5-5200 ECC supported: Yes If you upgraded from Windows 10 to 11 on a drive connected to the new motherboard, you should be okay. If you upgraded from 10 to 11 on a drive connected to the old motherboard and then moved that drive to the new one, this can cause problems. Some people (including me) get lazy and transfer old Windows SSDs to different motherboards. Windows might seem fine in the new system, but strange things can happen because you didn't follow best practices. On my systems, everything ran incredibly slowly until I reinstalled Windows from scratch. It takes me 15 to 20 minutes to install Windows on an SSD, plus several hours to tweak settings and install all my favorite programs. Total time is 4 to 5 hours. Contrast this with 60 seconds to plug in an existing Windows drive into a new system, and you can see why some people take risks. If you have any doubts, reinstall Windows 11 from scratch, for example on a spare drive (even a 120GB SATA SSD will do as a test). Once you've sorted everything out, you can wipe your main boot drive (M.2 NVMe?) and reinstall Windows. It is often best to "nuke it" (Aliens quote) by wiping the drive and doing a clean install (no old data or settings kept). Backup any important files elsewhere if needed. Make sure any other hard drives and SSDs are physically disconnected during Windows installation. This ensures all necessary hidden and visible partitions created by Windows are written to the correct (boot) drive only. You can reconnect any other drives after booting into the new Windows Desktop for the first time. While fixing problems, unplug all external hardware except the essentials (mouse, keyboard, monitor). Get the basic system working first before adding peripherals.
I have never overclocked anything, so its just what the default settings are right now. Maybe I can try Auto Overclock with AMD Adrenaline since I dont know enough about it yet. But wait, I reset my PC and reinstalled Windows a couple days ago, and nothing changed there. Sadly, windows is running on an HDD that I havent upgraded since my first build nearly 10 years ago. I definitely plan to upgrade soon, transfer all files to a new SSD, in the near future just to get rid of it.
If your computer feels jittery and keeps running at normal speeds without going fast, I don't recommend trying to speed it up. Doing that might make problems worse. Instead, take a closer look and see if your RAM is actually overclocked too. If you can't find the setting in the BIOS easily, try some special software like CPU-Z or HWMonitor to check how hard your memory runs on its own.
If your RAM is running at what it was meant for (stock JEDEC settings), you probably want 2400MHz when multiplied by two to get DDR, which equals 4800MT/s. This might show up as 4800MHz in the software. If you see numbers like 3000MHz or even 6000MT/s that are higher than normal, your RAM is being overclocked and should be turned off.
Beyond just slow down the computer running Windows, if your hard disk is 10 years old, it might already have bad blocks or corrupted files making things slow. Here are three easy fixes you can try: run CHKDSK on C: with the F switch to check for errors and fix them; use sfc /scannow from Command Prompt (make sure you have admin rights) or DISM to clean up OS problems; and finally, if you still need a drive as a backup, buy a cheap 120GB SATA SSD for around $15. That's enough to run Windows without needing anything else. If you can afford it, get a bigger 500GB or 1TB SATA SSD that has DRAM cache because it costs more but is worth it. Generally speaking, regular SATA SSDs are cheaper than versions with extra memory, and having the extra memory makes Windows run faster even if it isn't strictly necessary. If your motherboard has an M.2 slot, check to see if it's slow SATA or super-fast NVMe.
Ram's speed is just under 2400 MB/s, right around 2394/5. The scan found an error and I'm trying to fix it now. It was incredibly slow so I'll update again once that's done. Maybe I should have waited until night time instead, so my PlayStation isn't locked out for twelve hours... For the SSD, I'm planning on buying a 4TB Samsung 990 Evo Plus. Having more space is better than having less.