Looking for guidance on your recent network installation.
Looking for guidance on your recent network installation.
Hello everyone, I’m looking to upgrade my home network and here are a few questions and suggestions. My setup is still simple: I’m using fiber internet from my ISP, connected via their router/modem/switch, which has very little configuration. I have a 1000Mbps Ethernet port but pay for 2000Mbps service. I own a phone, two computers, and a local server linked through Ethernet, plus a printer, TV, some phones, and occasionally laptops via WiFi. I have both 2.4GHz and 5GHz Wi-Fi enabled. The main computer supports 2.5Gbps, the server will work with the upgrade, and another small server is planned. After confirming this is the simplest setup possible with what I have, I’d like to know: can I replace my current router/modem/switch or should I work around it? If yes, keeping the phone and internet would help address some issues.
For reference, I’m using a Livebox 5 from Orange in France. Assuming I can’t modify the equipment provided by my ISP (or if I’m curious), is there a way to combine two Ethernet inputs? For example, a switch with two 1000Mbps ports feeding into it, delivering roughly 2000Mbps. My original plan was to buy a new router, connect it to the ISP gear, and let the new device manage DHCP—just need static IPs for servers, default DNS, port forwarding. I’d add a switch that supports at least 2.5Gbps, connect my computers and servers there, use a simpler switch for multimedia (TV, console), and plug in a Wi-Fi spot to the last switch. The printer should stay on the newest switch without needing a dedicated high-speed port.
Would this arrangement make sense? Did I overlook something important? Even if it sounds good, I’m unsure which gear to choose—any recommendations or specific models would be appreciated. Thanks!
Yes, certain gadgets allow port aggregation—but it doesn’t apply to public internet links. It functions only within your private network. So, to clarify: you’re getting 2 gigabits via fiber, then using a converter and a cat cable that leads into a router? The converter is usually supplied by your service provider. The cat should be able to handle full 2 gigabits. To achieve true 2 gigabit internet, you’d need a dedicated 2 gigabit router. These are typically costly. The only consumer router I’m aware of that supports up to 10 gigabits on multiple ports is the Asus RT-AX89X. It starts at 10 gigabits on one port and can add another with an adapter. Another option is a small business router without Wi-Fi, paired with a separate Wi-Fi hotspot. If you need rapid Wi-Fi and consistent network performance everywhere, consider running the Asus RT-AX89X with a cat device connected to the internet, then connecting a 5 gigabit or 10 gigabit adapter to a switch. Use an affordable switch for other devices or connect them directly to the router. Anything above 1 gigabit Ethernet remains unusual here—there’s a link with various community suggestions if you’d like more details.
You can simply connect the Asus RT-AX89X to swap out the ISP router. The TV should function properly. Phone connectivity might be affected—contact your ISP for clarification. Usually, replacing an ISP router isn’t complicated unless it’s a specialized combo device. Most phones likely use VoIP over CAT or WiFi, which can be manually adjusted if needed. The main issue arises with routers that support more than 1 gigabit; they tend to be costly. In general, swapping your ISP router should work fine. Take a photo of the fiber connection to the router. Often, there’s a dedicated fiber modem where the fiber enters, and from there a standard CAT cable leads to the router. A CAT6e can handle short distances up to 10 gigabits easily. In Europe, you’re usually free to use your own router and modem. Just inform your ISP—if necessary, they might suggest buying a fiber modem and a new router. Many ISPs provide outdated routers; some even offer remote access features that are often compromised locally. It’s best to remove the ISP router first for security. The modem itself is basic—it just changes fiber signals into CAT.
I appreciate the detailed guidance you've shared. It helps a lot as I'm unfamiliar with networking and ISP equipment. I understand the limitations of the current setup and will focus on replacing the router while keeping my existing 2.5Gbps and higher connections intact. I'll reach out early in the morning to discuss options. I've included a photo of your ISP router showing the fiber input, Ethernet port, and connected phone. It seems the device uses direct fiber instead of CAT cable, which might affect configuration. I'm unsure if this model is standard since it connects directly to fiber rather than a CAT connection. I'll need a router with fiber modem capabilities or an additional fiber modem. My setup looks like this: Fiber cable → fiber modem → router → switches → Wi-Fi access point. Let's clarify the exact setup with your ISP for precise configuration.
So you believe it’s a mix of a fiber modem and a router. That’s correct. You’re probably thinking the phone connects via a standard two-wire low-power cable, similar to old analog phone lines. In that scenario, your best option would be to purchase a new device that supports WiFi or CAT connectivity. These are affordable and widely available. You might also inquire with your ISP about any unusual settings they could apply. Generally, I’d recommend opting for a dedicated fiber modem. If you need up to 2 gigabits, consider a separate router. For 1 gigabit, a good built-in WiFi router is sufficient unless you have a large space where a dedicated hotspot would be practical. For full 2 gigabits, the Asus Router RT-AX89X with an adapter and a 10-gig switch works well for multiple devices. If your PC supports 2.5 gigabits, run it directly from the router without a switch—unless you have several high-speed devices like NAS units. Only use a switch if you’re supporting more than one device at over 1 gigabit speeds. For larger setups, look for budget-friendly business routers that also support 10 gigabits; these often need a separate WiFi hotspot. Remember, CAT6 cables are necessary for speeds above 1 gigabit. To achieve 10 gigabits, you’ll likely need at least CAT6e cables, as regular CAT6 can be poorly installed. The upgrade isn’t huge, but CAT7 is a safer bet. Price differences aren’t massive. Also, most non-computer gadgets are limited to 100 megabits—plugging them into higher speeds won’t help much. Just buy from a reliable brand. P.S. Curious about the cost of 2 gigabit fiber in France? Right now you’re paying around 30 euros for 300 megabits, so 1 gig would add another 99 euros—still a steep price compared to alternatives.
Hello, I switched jobs and paused that network update, maybe I missed some details in this post. The phone is linked via an RJ15 cable. The fiber modem/router uses special equipment, as my ISP said it's "unreplaceable" – not sure if that's true but it bothers me. For now, I’m planning to install a second router after the first one (that part didn’t sit well). Then I’ll connect some devices and a switch to it. The only changes I intend are moving the Wi-Fi from the router to another spot in the house where the signal is better (the current setup doesn’t reach all rooms due to wall placement). I might also add a simple 1Gbps switch for devices that support it. Regarding cost, I was paying 42 euros per month for 2Gb fiber, modem, unlimited international calls, mobile with international, unlimited texts, and 50GB data. My phone and fiber were on the same plan. This deal was a one-year offer; if I stick with it, the price will rise to 72 euros. I’ll need to cancel and start fresh if I want to keep the same rate.