Looking for a reliable rock-solid stable overclock (4820K)
Looking for a reliable rock-solid stable overclock (4820K)
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My build:
https://pchound.com/q02oZY/
Processor:
Intel Core i7-4820K
($0 - Owned)
Motherboard:
ASUS Sabertooth X79
($0 - Unavailable)
RAM:
Mushkin Enhanced 16GB (2 x 8GB) Silverline
($0 - Owned)
Memory #2:
Mushkin Enhanced 16GB (2 x 8GB) Silverline
($0 - Owned)
Memory #3:
Mushkin Enhanced 16GB (2 x 8GB) Silverline
($0 - Owned)
Memory #4:
Mushkin Enhanced 16GB (2 x 8GB) Silverline
($0 - Owned)
Graphics Card:
ZOTAC GeForce GTX 780 AMP! SUPERCLOCKED ZT-70203-10P
($0 - Unavailable)
Graphics Card #2:
ZOTAC GeForce GTX 780 AMP! SUPERCLOCKED ZT-70203-10P
($0 - Unavailable)
Power Supply:
Thermaltake 1200W Toughpower Grand TPG-1200M
($0 - Owned)
Storage:
Western Digital 4TB RE WD4000FYYZ
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Storage #2:
Kingston 120GB SSDNow V300 Series SV300S37A/120G
($0 - Owned)
Storage #3:
Kingston 120GB SSDNow V300 Series SV300S37A/120G
($0 - Owned)
Storage #4:
SAMSUNG 256GB 850 Pro Series MZ-7KE256BW
($0 - Owned)
Storage #5:
SAMSUNG 256GB 850 Pro Series MZ-7KE256BW
($0 - Owned)
Case:
COOLER MASTER CM Storm Series Trooper (SGC-5000-KKN1)
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CPU Cooler:
CORSAIR CW-9060009-WW
($0 - Owned)
Operating System:
Microsoft Windows 10 Professional - Full Version 32 & 64-Bit (Download)
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Windows #2:
Microsoft Windows 8.1 - 64-bit - OEM
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Mouse:
RAZER DeathAdder 2013
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Keyboard:
RAZER Blackwidow Ultimate Stealth Edition
($0 - Owned)
Headphones:
SONY MDR-V6
($0 - Owned)
Display:
SAMSUNG U28E590D
($0 - Owned)
Optical Drive:
LG WH16NS40
($0 - Owned)
Thermal Compound:
Arctic Silver AS5-3.5G
($0 - Owned)
Sound Card:
Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Xtreme Audio
($0 - Owned)
My information:
http://valid.x86.fr/m0u2n4
If further details are required, please let me know. I attempted to use the data from these forums, but stability remains a concern. I face occasional crashes and difficulty restarting at lower voltages; I’m worried about exceeding safe limits. Should I consider using a CPU strap for overclocking RAM? I’m uncertain if my RAID setup is secure or more efficient than standalone drives. Excessive heat from graphics cards might stem from insufficient positive pressure when multiple negative fans operate high. Have an HT Omega Claro sound card from my previous build—would that be preferable to the X-Fi? Many questions remain.
My "Stable OC" from before this post:
From your dump it seems you're relying on BCLK for OC, not just the multiplier. For an Intel CPU this isn't ideal. BCLK controls the bus clock speed, which increases the speeds of all components—CPU, RAM, GPU, SSD, and any other connections on the motherboard. This can lead to instability. You're overloading everything else instead of focusing on the CPU. Even with a solid motherboard, heat problems from PCIe, M.2, VRM, etc., will still occur. Lower BCLK closer to 100, adjust the multiplier to around 48, and address any LLC, current, or PLL issues.
From your dump it seems you're relying on BCLK for OC, not just the multiplier. For an Intel CPU this isn't ideal. BCLK controls the bus clock speed, which increases the speeds of all components—CPU, RAM, GPU, SSD, and any other connections on the motherboard. This can lead to instability. You're overloading everything else instead of focusing on the CPU. Even with a solid motherboard, heat problems from PCIe, MCU, or VRM will still occur. Lower BCLK closer to 100, adjust the multiplier to around 48, and address any LLC, current, PLL issues.
Karadjgne suggested adjustments to BCLK, multiplier, and LLC settings. Auto Voltages will be fine-tuned. I'll test some benches for stability and performance. Please list any you'd like to review. Real Bench 2.41 experienced a "Memory Management" BSOD twice. Voltage changed to Manual at 1.395V. Real Bench 2.41: Image Editing logs recorded with timestamps, encoding details, OpenCL stats, multitasking scores, and PCMark 7 link.
Dl prime95 v26.6 and realtemp. Both free. Execute the stress test for an hour with minimal FFT. This ensures liquid cooling temperature stabilization. Begin at 1.25v, high LLC (around 75%), 110% current, turn off features like c-states, and set BCLK to 100 with a multiplier of 45, adjusting from there.
Search online for Intel CPU and motherboard information, as BIOS may contain optimizations that other users have discovered.
Karadjgne :
Dl prime95 v26.6 and realtemp. Both free. Execute that test for a solid hour with small fft. This is to ensure liquid cooling temp stabilization. Begin at 1.25v, very high LLC (around 75%), 110% current, turn off things like c-states, and set BCLK at 100, multiplier at 45 and adjust from there.
Search online for OC instructions for Intel and your CPU and motherboard—there may be tricks in your BIOS that other users have found effective.
C-States Disabled.
After this screenshot, I was listening to that mp3 (after staring at it for an hour, why not?). I received a warning that my 12V was reading 0.00. It didn't seem to impact anything.
In my previous "stable" profile, QPI and Core speed matched. I thought that was ideal. Should I consider increasing the BCLK to bring them closer?
Usually, for Intel CPUs, tuning the OC involves adjusting the BIOS with a multiplier, while keeping BCLK at 100. The motherboard's OC software can also increase BCLK to 103-105, but this is only a basic adjustment since it impacts RAM and GPU, which have many variables that make them hard to rely on. The exact method you use depends on your personal preference, as no single approach is clearly better. Multiplier tuning is simpler and avoids unnecessary changes to other components.
Karadjgne shares his experience with Intel CPUs. Typically, overclocking involves adjusting the BIOS with a multiplier, keeping BCLK at 100. The motherboard's OC software can also increase BCLK to 103-105, but this is considered a basic level of OC since it impacts RAM and GPU, which have many variables. Personal settings vary, but using a multiplier is simpler than changing BCLK, which could unnecessarily affect other components. CPU Strap is an option, though much more challenging to stabilize compared to multiplier overclocking. He plans to gradually increase the multiplier, then core voltage in small steps, and adjust if stabilization fails beyond 1.4v. This approach seems sensible.
sounds about right, just keep in mind that this covers the essentials for a straightforward OC. Once you surpass 4.3GHz, you move into more complex OC where unstable elements such as c-states, PLL voltage, and current become important. Google OC using your motherboard is available, and many have different advice depending on the BIOS, but the core concept—whether by name or not—remains consistent.
Karadjgne:
sounds about right, just keep in mind that this covers the basics for a simple OC. Once you surpass 4.3GHz you move into more complex OC where unstable elements like c-states have to be turned off, along with pll voltage and current.
Searching for OC settings using your motherboard is a good idea—it’s available online and many people share tips that vary depending on the BIOS, but the overall concept remains similar.
Is there a method to determine the right configurations to maximize performance without just guessing?
This is 100x48 Stable, following your guidance. The voltage is above 1.4, but temperatures look fine.
46 was stable at 1.35, 47 at 1.375
Thanks for your assistance!