Looking for a quieter fan to fit the 120 x 120 x 25 space?
Looking for a quieter fan to fit the 120 x 120 x 25 space?
With lots of help from Tom's Forum, I recently put together a new build.
I installed the mobo software that lets me monitor the fan settings from software while in windows 11. Silent, Normal, Manual modes. I'm a little nervous messing with these settings as I don't want to do something stupid and turn off my fans. As a precaution, I could set alarms in my bios for when temps get too high, but I'm not sure what the limit should be.
The fan noise, other than honing sound, has a subtle surging sound to it as well, repeating on a frequency. It's not overly loud, just annoying.
According to my (gigabyte) mobo software, here's what I've got in NORMAL mode which is what runs by default. These vary, of course, but here is a snapshot. Just running the mobo software from desktop, nothing else going on ("no load"). Fan/speed.
"Normal" Mode (default)
CPU/991
Sys1/783
Sys2/697
Sys3/696
CPU temp: 35
Fan Duty Cycle: 56
If I go to "Silent" Mode, I get:
CPU/698
Sys1/672
Sys2/639
Sys3/635
CPU temp: 35
Fan Duty Cycle: 38
In "Silent" mode, the PC is essentially quiet and I have no issues with noise.
At no load, for both Normal and Silent mode, GPU fans aren't running at all, I guess because I'm not stressing the GPU. Of course I do expect to have more noise when I'm under load, but in a quiet room the "NORMAL" fan mode, the noise is petty, but still quite annoying. I can't get used to it.
It SEEMS to me that the noise I'm getting is from the CPU fan. Not sure when it starts, but it definitely goes away when I go from CPU NORMAL (970s) to CPU SILENT (650-690s).
I don't see a way to specifically adjust the fan speed with this software even in "MANUAL" mode. Seems I'm just dragging the dot on the grid I guess to tell the fan when to trigger at what temp rather than what actual speed to run. Same thing playing with fan controls from BIOS. I guess the idea, once I figure out how to do it, would be to tweak just the CPU fan perhaps buy running a custom version of fan speed using the MANUAL mode. But I shouldn't have to do this, right? It's a new PC, not overclocked, and I should be able to run on NORMAL mode. On Silent mode, with no load, cpu temp seems are unaffected, but of course I want to run safely when loaded as well, so I'd like to keep it in "normal" mode if possible.
Anyway, I'm first thinking about hardware fixes.
1) It is possible I didn't apply the thermal paste very well? I could redo it. Does a fan speed of near 1000 suggest it isn't cooling well? At load (furmark) with fans running I plateau at 79 degrees.
2) When I installed the cooler, the fans touched the system ram, so I raised them up a few mms which doesn't mean much if you know the cooler design. Still, I wonder maybe the cooler is contacting the mobo and making a vibrational noise. I don't think this is the kind of noise I'm hearing, but just putting it out there.
3) I bought the Thermalright PS120 SE.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BNH1...=UTF8&th=1
Fan described as:
【PWM Fan】 TL-C12B V2; Standard size industrial grade PWM performance PC fan: 120x120x25mm (4.92x4.92x0.98 inches); Fan speed (RPM): 1500rpm±10%; Power port: 4-pin; Voltage: 12V; Air flow: 66.17CFM (max); Noise level ≤25.6dB(A), high performance fan combined with efficient heat dissipation The cooling body of the unit gives you the best cooling effect.
There are two fans. How about I just buy a couple of high quality "SILENT" fans to replace these? Could you suggest a replacement? The cooler was only $36 and quiet fans can get spendy so is there a not-too-expensive quieter CPU cooler that's able to the the cooling job of the Thermalright? Mostly I'm looking for the fan recommendation as that's a pretty easy fix with quick knowable results.
my build:
PCPartPicker Part List:
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/gmVmBL
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($369.00 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($35.90 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte B650 AORUS ELITE AX ATX AM5 Motherboard ($209.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Flare X5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($106.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial T500 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($84.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial T500 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($139.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte GAMING OC GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER 16 GB Video Card ($829.99 @ Best Buy)
Case: Lian Li LANCOOL 216 ATX Mid Tower Case ($94.99 @ Newegg Sellers)
Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS GX-850 ATX 3.0 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($139.99 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 11 Home Retail - Download 64-bit ($123.94 @ Walmart)
Total: $2135.77
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-03-09 11:46 EST-0500
You don't have to purchase new fans. They're already fairly quiet, and in theory they match some comparable Noctua models, though likely a few decibels quieter than similar ones like the NF-F12. You probably just need to set them to silent mode or adjust the curve manually. It's not worth using desktop programs for this; the built-in or third-party tools from manufacturers are usually ineffective. I generally advise against installing such software and suggest making all adjustments directly in the BIOS. For finer control, creating your own fan curve is better, but silent mode should suffice unless you notice temperatures exceeding around 85°C under full load.
Hi
@Muckster
Concerning fans – they indeed have speed and noise ratings. However, the performance changes noticeably when installed near restrictive components such as air cooler fin stacks or radiators. A quieter fan won’t completely eliminate the sound issues, just alter the pitch.
Manufacturers aim to minimize noise in their fin stacks, but there’s always a balance between efficiency and quietness.
For instance, I own the same PS120SE RGB cooler, but I’ve positioned my front fan slightly higher to accommodate my RAM in the second slot. If I run the cooler with this arrangement and adjust the fans differently, the overall sound profile will vary. Will it be louder or quieter? You’ll need to test it yourself.
I previously suggested the software you mentioned – Fan Control, a free tool for Windows that lets you manage CPU, GPU, and case fans via temperature settings.
getfancontrol.com
On the topic of setting the fan speed incorrectly and risking CPU damage, your observation is correct. When set to a quiet mode or around 700 RPM, the noise is minimal.
You can start with a flat curve from 0° to 45° at 700 RPM, then tweak it by adjusting each gridline or increasing the speed by 5° and monitoring temperatures. This will help you find the optimal balance.
Additionally, consider boosting the intake fan speed slightly to improve cooling efficiency. This depends on your specific airflow setup, so you’ll need to experiment.
Lastly, if possible, decouple the cooler’s fan cables and control them individually at various speeds, especially if you have an extra free fan header in your motherboard.
Noctua is clearly the best choice. However, if appearance matters: Artic or Artic ARGB (artic fans are also a great value). My setup includes an ARGB unit with 8 light zones. The bottom and top sections use Artic ARGB. The middle CPU cooler is Thermalright.
https://flic.kr/p/2oeZAQk
View: https://flic.kr/p/2oeZAQk
Thermalright fans perform well and generate significant pressure. Yet this comes at the cost of increased noise.
Cooler Master fans are poor quality. They produce high noise levels while offering low flow/pressure ratios. I own around 12 RGB fans and 6 non-RGB Cooler Master units. The RGB ones seem cheaply constructed, using only four LEDs. I doubt the ARGB option is superior. It might have six LEDs instead. Overall, they’re a waste of money. The motor balance is bad, vibrations are noticeable, and airflow is restricted even in the P series.
I'm using the software from the mainboard website that closely resembles what I see in BIOs, but I think I could simply install it directly from the BIOS after deciding what I need to do.
To confirm I have the right software, whether I run in silent or normal mode, the fans will still activate (spinning faster or cooling more) when temperatures rise sufficiently. The main difference lies in the temperature at which the fans start to cool the case.
The main concern is determining the ideal temperature threshold.
You're right to mention staying under 85°C, but a CPU that keeps running at 83°C won't last as long as one that operates at 35°C, won't it? Is it reasonable to say that lower temperatures always mean better longevity, or can we establish a cutoff around 40°C below which damage is practically negligible, like 35 or 30°C? Knowing this number is all I need to set the fans properly.
Do you have a standard temperature in mind?
Also, just a note, in both silent and normal modes, the fan activation charts become identical once the case temperature reaches 60°C.
Spoiler alert. I adjusted the (instake) fan about an inch higher than before, keeping the middle one where it was. This appeared to make a noticeable difference. The issue wasn’t primarily about the volume but rather the type of noise or pitch, which was quite bothersome. I plan to keep experimenting, but this change might have resolved most of the strange surging sounds.
Despite years of PC building experience, I’ve never encountered this specific kind of noise before. It makes me think it could be a faulty fan paired with a decent CPU cooler—so I’m considering replacing it to test if that helps.
If I were to proceed, any of the 120x120x25 Notura, Sythe, or Bequiet models would work? Should I look for a PWN fan?
Thank you. I’ve tried it out a bit. I appreciate the standalone software feature.
Yes, that’s logical.
It seems I’d need to relocate one of the CPU fans onto a different motherboard controller to adjust them individually. That would be the only way to fine-tune the intake speed further. For now, I’ll continue testing for a few days to see if adjusting the intake alone was sufficient.
EDIT: Checking my motherboard manual, I noticed a CPU_OPT header. There’s also an option for CPU_OPT in my fan monitoring software. Could I connect a CPU cooler fan there and control it separately? Is that connection limited only to water cooling fans or hardware?
As outlined in the manual:
CPU_OPT (CPU Fan/Water Cooling Pump Header)
The header is 4-pin and has a secure installation method. Most headers do too. When attaching a fan cable, ensure you follow the correct orientation—black wire is the ground. The speed control feature demands a fan with built-in speed regulation.
Thanks for the reply,
It's really a wide range of Noctua options even at 120x120x25. Considering Scythe or Bequiet, etc., they all fall between $9 and $20. The gap between those prices isn't too important to me. What matters more is when it becomes worthwhile to buy a new cooler instead of spending $20–$40 in a $36 one.
I think I’d need a PWN fan. Should I match the 1500 RPM of the original CPU cooler fans? I’m not sure if that would change how they’re controlled by the motherboard. Oh, and I don’t really care about lighted fans—I actually prefer to avoid them.
Based on what I’ve tried so far, my main motivation for getting a new fan is to fix a faulty one rather than just get quieter fans.
The speed and fan control method are unrelated to PWM inputs (4 pin header). You can build a powerful fan operating at 800rpm and 1000cfm, producing significant noise. A comparable high-pressure fan at 800rpm delivers 500cfm quietly and works well with a radiator. This is where the Noctua products stand out. Just because a fan supports 2000rpm doesn’t mean you must run it at full speed—noise rises rapidly with RPM, while cooling efficiency follows a more gradual curve.
This message doesn't contain any new or relevant information. It simply states that there isn't anything significant to add.
Respectfully, doesn’t placing Noctua fans on a Thermalright cooler undermine the value of purchasing a Thermalright (i.e., the price)? Perhaps it’s wiser to opt for a Noctua cooler right away. I support the idea of adjusting the fan curve in the BIOS. Also, if you believe the unit is defective, returning or exchanging it would make more sense since it’s a new build.