Look for a Cat 6 or higher cable designed for shielded runs behind walls.
Look for a Cat 6 or higher cable designed for shielded runs behind walls.
In the near future, the installation company will add fiber to the building, and we’re also completing renovations in the house. Presently, Ethernet cables are running on the walls. If you plan to move them into conduits inside the walls, what specifications should you consider? Should I use CAT6? Solid core? Stranded, or another type?
These standards are often considered less formal than others. They usually offer better performance than cat6a but aren't officially sanctioned. Generally, cat5e suffices for speeds up to 2.5 gbps at 100 meters, cat6 works well for 5gbps or 10gbps up to 55 meters, and cat6a is ideal for 10gbps over 100 meters. The cost gap between high-end cat5e and cat6 should be minimal, so opting for the lowest price suitable for your distance is reasonable. If you expect less than about 30-40 meters from the outlet to the switch, plain cat6 should do. For smaller distances, a modest price difference makes cat6 the better choice. Steer clear of ethernet cables with CCA coating—they can weaken over long runs and are more prone to damage from bends. For short runs (10-15 meters), they might work, but longer distances require solid copper cables. Also consider insulation types; if the cable will be inside walls, ensure it meets safety standards like LSZH or flame-retardant properties to prevent fire spread. Using solid-core cables is preferable for wall connections since you can easily install them with a punch-down tool. Stranded cables are better if flexibility and ease of bending are important, especially for patch cables.
I checked all interior distances using fish wire. The network box was positioned conveniently near every room. The farthest room is about 10 meters, while others are no more than 5 meters away. It seems any cable should work. However, since it’s DSL and a telephone wire might run close to the ethernet in one conduit, could that cause interference? Using CAT7 might help because of its shielding.
Stick to Cat6 or Cat6a with solid core copper. If concerned, opt for FTP cable—it's UTP with aluminum foil around the pairs as shielding. STP is mostly unnecessary; FTP usually suffices. Example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JAVN1C8/ A phone line won't generate much interference. Even if it does, multiple layers of plastic and wire insulation will block most of it. Extra shielding is advised when running Ethernet alongside power cables or old fluorescent lighting, as high-voltage pulses from starters and neon tubes can cause noise in the cable.
In short, phone lines operate at a vastly different frequency than Ethernet or kHz versus MHz ranges. When interference occurs, the main problems stem from higher harmonics rather than just the twisted pair. Shielding helps block high-frequency harmonics, but it offers little protection for lower frequencies unless mains current is present.
You're welcome! I got it—CAT7 is fake, so the next real spec is CAT8 after CAT6a. Regarding your cable question, solid copper on Amazon is long, and for a 100ft run with a 40ft max length, you should be fine. Stranded cables can be prone to damage during pulling, so make sure they're properly stranded or use a padded sheath if needed. The Amazon links you shared look like good options; just check the specs and ensure they match your needs.