Issues with your WiFi connection.
Issues with your WiFi connection.
When connecting routers, each one assigns a unique network address to avoid conflicts. The addresses change as you move up the network hierarchy. Some brands use different subnet ranges like 192.168.68.0/24 or 192.168.100.0/24. I’m curious about this, but it’s not a major issue. Also, connecting a device to the parent router might affect access to the AP web interface. I haven’t tested it myself.
I don’t really know what you’re referring to. It seems to be something from your main router that you haven’t used much. You mentioned not understanding it and being afraid of touching anything. The old saying you heard is about not changing BIOS unless everything works fine. I think it helped you avoid mistakes a long time ago. Updating the BIOS now isn’t exactly the same, but it’s still useful. You’d like to set things up from scratch—your own routers, fiber cables, etc.—but you’re stuck using IPS devices.
Twenty years have passed and things remain largely the same. You’re usually limited to a few settings, and updating your BIOS can still make your motherboard feel like a heavy object if issues arise. Most ISPs let third-party modems in, just ensure they match your fiber type and are listed among their supported devices. Once you have that, you can add any router you like—two separate units would work. From the pictures, it looks like your DHCP pool ignores the first 63 addresses and uses the 192.168.1.0/24 network. This suggests you should be able to access your router’s web interface from anywhere in your home on any device, and the fact it uses 192.168.1.1 shouldn’t conflict with other network devices. In simple terms, everything should function as planned.
I investigated this choice. You should look for a specific SFP from D-Link that was discontinued some time ago. Custom firmware might be necessary, as it could overheat (65°C to 70°C). You’d need strong cooling, and even then, performance would likely be poor. Internet access would still work—phone or cable TV—but it might be unstable. Overall, not a good value. Most enthusiasts do this for hobby purposes, not everyday use.
Real APs are essentially identical; they will assign an IP through DHCP or prompt you to set a static one. Since they’re meant to function this way, they probably have more detailed guides and mobile tools to identify them on your network regardless of their assigned IP.
A lot of these addresses are unused in commercial setups, which is likely why subnets are needed.
It's especially crucial in business settings since everything will be handled from a single point. Additionally, it's likely that management and regular traffic will run on separate VLANs.
Explore the available tech to see how it functions and is set up. You're aware that switch ports can belong to multiple VLANs, but you haven't considered whether an AP can operate across more than one VLAN simultaneously. The Management VLAN and the Clients VLAN are key concepts here. I'll need to identify a reliable brand and purchase a couple units to connect to my managed switch. Give it a try! I've been checking the brands they install at the business you visit, but I haven't deeply examined their features yet.
I'm still figuring out VLANs. I attempted to route bridged modem traffic across VLANs, which meant using one cable for both WAN and management. Eventually, I had to run two cables from each device. It's frustrating because consumer routers use different terminology, making it hard to know what they mean. I also discovered mixed advice about whether VLAN tags affect MTU size. Sometimes the priority is just getting it to work, and in my setup, the modems act like extra switches rather than causing noticeable loss.