Issue with my PC following installation of LG C1 OLED.
Issue with my PC following installation of LG C1 OLED.
I noticed the issue with your PC startup. When you press the power button, it normally shows the Asus ROG screen, but when it transitions to Windows login, you lose signal. Pressing the reset button usually restarts it properly, though the video might take a moment to appear. The problem seems to occur only after logging in. You mentioned testing multiple HDMI cables and it worked on your LG C8, so the hardware connection appears fine. Could be a software or driver issue?
Most likely a connection issue. You said you tried 3 different HDMI 2.1 cables, but HDMI aswell as DisplayPort cables don't support a specific version. They all offer the same amount of pins and therefor can transmit any type of HDMI version. What matters is the signal integrety, which is determined by the quality of the cable. Long story short, companies bullshit you about the version a HDMI cable can "support". So what I recommend you do is to disable fast-boot if not already done and get a proper high quality HDMI cable. Preferably from a reputeable brand like Lindy.
This remains consistent across all cases. The key factors differ in shielding, cable size, connector quality, metal composition, and more. Older cables fail with newer specs because they weren't developed for higher frequencies.
Note: A producer can claim a cable meets HDMI 2.1 requirements, but technically it always does. They must personally verify performance at specific resolutions and speeds.
This situation is comparable to twisted pair network wiring, where defined categories dictate testing needs, length limits, and shielding standards—unlike HDMI or DisplayPort which have more uniform guidelines.
Many Amazon cables are listed only as 4K at 60Hz, while others claim 4K at 120Hz. With so many options, picking one can be tricky. I chose models advertising 4K120 with strong reviews, confident they’ll perform well once the PC is running and video plays.
The concept aligns with what you're expressing. An HDMI 2.1 cable is verified (or should be) to function with HDMI 2.1 since it's engineered for greater bandwidth. The pin configuration matches earlier HDMI standards, ensuring compatibility. Higher-quality cables not specifically certified can still perform if they support the increased data rate. Similarly, with Ethernet, older cables that offer better shielding might handle more data than their ratings suggest. Essentially, we're discussing the same point from different perspectives: certified cables meet the standard for 2.1, while older ones could work if they meet the necessary requirements.
We might be dealing with the same situation. It’s crucial to remember that a manufacturer’s claim of an "HDMI 2.1 cable" doesn’t guarantee it actually exists. That’s the message I intended to convey. If you’re asking about this too, then everything is fine. I wouldn’t rely on them at all. I’ve experimented with HDMI and DisplayPort cables, and based on my experience, they rarely match the advertised features. Let’s be realistic—assuming the cables are correct, the next two factors to consider are your graphics card or your display. Have you checked every possible HDMI port? It seems your graphics card likely has only one available. There’s also the chance a boot setting is interfering, which is why I suggested turning off fast-boot, though this is speculative. You’ll need to test it yourself by adjusting BIOS settings and observing any changes.
I'll attempt to turn off fast boot upon returning home and check if it improves performance. The graphics card features two HDMI ports that function identically (Asus TUF 3080 OC). I've also experimented with various HDMI connections on the TV.
Disabling fast boot didn’t help, so I turned it back on. I set "Launch CSM" in BIOS and restarted. The PC shut down completely and came back up quickly—about five seconds. No data loss, but performance feels off. Still, the signal issue seems resolved. Now entering BIOS is tricky; I can’t boot from a full shutdown, so I have to restart Windows and then delete or press F2. At least the signal problem is fixed.