Is this 650 VA UPS sufficient for your system?
Is this 650 VA UPS sufficient for your system?
Good Day! I’m wondering if this UPS is suitable for my PC, especially since I’m not familiar with UPS systems. I have a Ryzen 5 5600G, 32GB RAM, an RX 580, and six LED fans installed. I can check the product link here: https://pcx.com.ph/products/secure-...NV...otDeWl1a5n. Should I consider a higher VA model to better protect my system?
Nowhere near it.
In battery mode, it produces square wave output.
😵 It has a capacity of 650VA/455W, which is quite limited.
UPS systems can generate three types of waveforms:
1. Square wave – the most affordable, suitable only for rugged equipment such as power generators and motors.
2. Simulated sine wave (also known as stepped-approximated sine wave) – moderate cost, ideal for everyday home devices like refrigerators, washing machines, and lighting.
3. True/pure sine wave – expensive, offering the same quality as a standard wall socket, and suitable only for delicate electronics like medical gear, TVs, and PC power supplies.
Therefore, if you need a true/pure sine wave UPS, a simulated sine wave model might also be viable...
Here it is not close to anything.
In battery mode, it delivers a square wave output.
😵
With a capacity of 650VA/455W, it’s quite compact.
UPS systems can generate three types of waveforms:
1. Square wave – the most affordable, suitable only for rugged equipment such as generators and motors.
2. Simulated sine wave (also known as stepped-approximated sine wave) – offers a moderate price point. Ideal for everyday appliances like refrigerators, washing machines, and lighting.
3. True/pure sine wave – the most expensive option. It replicates the natural power from the wall socket and is perfect for delicate electronics such as medical devices, TVs, and PC power supplies.
If you’re aiming for a true/pure sine wave UPS, simulated sine wave models might still function, though with potential limitations. More details are available below;
For further insights on waveform selection and UPS types, see:
https://suvastika.com/why-choose-a-sinew...erter-ups/
And for a deeper dive into UPS design, read:
https://www.eetimes.com/document.asp?doc_id=1272971
Understanding Waveform and Design
When using a PC, a line-interactive UPS is usually sufficient because power supplies can manage the brief 2ms to 5ms transition time.
Regarding waveform, a true/pure sine wave UPS is optimal. Simulated sine wave models are more budget-friendly but may not work with Active PFC PSUs. You might encounter problems if you use a simulated sine wave UPS with an Active PFC power supply. Here’s what happens, how it occurs, and why:
How to identify PSUs with Active PFC versus those without?
It’s straightforward: any PSU certified at 80+ (such as 80+ Bronze or 80+ Gold) must have Active PFC.
What is Active PFC?
For more details, see:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_fact...near_loads
Potential issues with simulated sine wave UPS using Active PFC PSUs:
When the UPS switches to battery power, it can trigger one of three scenarios:
1. The PC shows an error and shuts down instantly.
2. The PC powers off immediately.
3. The UPS switches to battery, causing the PC to shut down but remain powered by the UPS (PC stays on).
Why does this occur?
Simulated sine wave UPSes generate a zero output during phase transitions, creating a power “gap.” This interruption can affect Active PFC PSUs during the shift from AC to simulated sine wave output (battery mode).
What should you do next?
As mentioned, your PC can operate on a simulated sine wave UPS, but be ready for possible complications. If issues arise, consider swapping to a true/pure sine wave UPS or opting for the latter from the start.
Power Requirements
When selecting a UPS, consider your PC and monitor power consumption. Don’t forget speakers or Wi-Fi routers if you plan to connect them as well. Printers and scanners, for instance, typically draw excessive power and aren’t compatible with UPS input. Check your UPS manual for a detailed list.
Setting a maximum wattage as a baseline is wise—it provides extra capacity and extends runtime. Also, keep in mind that monitors add to the load; a typical monitor consumes between 23W and 52W. For precise figures, I’ll need your monitor’s make and model to calculate its power draw. Wi-Fi routers use minimal power, such as the Cisco EPC3940L consuming 12V at 3A (36W).
Recommended UPS brands include CyberPower, TrippLite, and APC. These are currently top choices.
Note: The more powerful your UPS, the longer it can sustain your PC before the battery depletes.
However, you’ve likely underestimated the cost of a reliable, high-quality UPS. Since its primary role is to maintain power during outages, it comes at a significant price. For instance, I recently spent €230 EUR on a CyberPower CP1300EPFCLCD (1300VA/780W, true/pure sine wave, line-interactive) UPS. With two units in use—one for Skylake and another for Haswell—I’m spending ₱14,420.77 PHP, while you’re currently paying ₱1,650.00 PHP for a similar model.
Because your PC is costly, replacement isn’t easy. If you prioritize protection, it won’t be cheap. But if you want a budget-friendly option, consider purchasing two UPS units: one affordable and one high-performance.
Thank you for the advice, explanation and the links that helped expand my understanding of the subject. I will remember the brands you mentioned so I can explore them more during my search for a UPS. Your insights will certainly be valuable in the future!
Oh my... quality issue with the power supply unit.
For example, on the retail box, it says:
"Supporting: latest dual core or four core Intel or AMD CPU".
But my R5 5600G is a 6 core, 12 thread CPU.
😀
So it seems you can't even use the PSU, according to what AIGO themselves claim about it.
And it doesn't improve.
Continuing from what's mentioned on the box:
"The interior PCB of the power supply uses 10Z thickness copper foil; the current is high and the circuit is very stable."
Why would there be 10 ounce (4mm) thick copper foil inside the PSU?
🤔
Also, I just checked, current can be high or low, but not "large". Yet I don't consider 240V high current. 1000V and above is considered high current.
"Multiple protection technology, such as OVP, OCP, UVP, SCP, OPP multiple protection."
Why mention the multiple protection part twice?
🤔
Additionally, it's missing OTP (Over Temperature Protection). Probably because:
"Designed for only non-tropical climate".
Last I checked, the Philippines is a tropical country.
🤔
That PSU is really a joke and a half.
🤣
For those interested, I found an unboxing video of that PSU. Even though I don't fully grasp what the person is saying, I can still understand:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eLgCAnUFWxM
Regarding suitable PSUs:
Good options are: Seasonic Focus/Vertex/PRIME, Corsair RMx/RMi/HXi/AXi, Super Flower Leadex Gold/Platinum/Titanium.
(My three PCs are also powered by Seasonic. I own two PRIME TX-650 units and one Focus PX-550 unit. Full specifications with pictures are in my profile.)
And for your build, a 650W PSU works well. The RX 580 has an 185W GPU, and if you include GPU power spikes, it might reach around 350W. Adding 200W for the rest of the system brings it to about 550W, making a 650W PSU adequate. A 750W unit is fine too.
Keep in mind: since the PSU powers everything, it's the most critical component inside the PC. You shouldn't compromise on quality for a PSU.
Avoid buying used ones either.