F5F Stay Refreshed Power Users Networks Installing wireless connectivity in a garage located more than 150 feet away from the main residence.

Installing wireless connectivity in a garage located more than 150 feet away from the main residence.

Installing wireless connectivity in a garage located more than 150 feet away from the main residence.

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FinnGamesHD
Member
50
10-23-2016, 08:11 AM
#11
Tyler, you're impressed! But maybe it's a bit much for his goals. Not entirely clear on that.
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FinnGamesHD
10-23-2016, 08:11 AM #11

Tyler, you're impressed! But maybe it's a bit much for his goals. Not entirely clear on that.

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TheDelphox
Junior Member
18
10-27-2016, 06:25 AM
#12
It's not what it seems. According to @Windows7ge, Cat5e and higher support gigabit speeds up to 100 meters. I actually use a Cat6 (no Cat6a) for roughly 48 meters (about 160 feet), which works well with a 10 Gigabit connection and a 70-meter (230-foot) outdoor run at 1 gigabit. That's 150 feet, comfortably within the range. The specs are solid. @Grabow You just need to extend the cable from your existing router or switch into the garage and add an access point. The distance doesn't matter much. Technically, if it has to be buried, outdoor-rated cables aren't necessary since the main purpose is protecting the sheathing from UV damage. But they're still a bit more affordable, so it's worth considering. However, there are several thick trees between those two locations, making point-to-point setups impractical.
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TheDelphox
10-27-2016, 06:25 AM #12

It's not what it seems. According to @Windows7ge, Cat5e and higher support gigabit speeds up to 100 meters. I actually use a Cat6 (no Cat6a) for roughly 48 meters (about 160 feet), which works well with a 10 Gigabit connection and a 70-meter (230-foot) outdoor run at 1 gigabit. That's 150 feet, comfortably within the range. The specs are solid. @Grabow You just need to extend the cable from your existing router or switch into the garage and add an access point. The distance doesn't matter much. Technically, if it has to be buried, outdoor-rated cables aren't necessary since the main purpose is protecting the sheathing from UV damage. But they're still a bit more affordable, so it's worth considering. However, there are several thick trees between those two locations, making point-to-point setups impractical.

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DremlonTV
Member
80
10-30-2016, 07:22 AM
#13
It depends on having a clear view. If many trees block the path, you won't get great outcomes.
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DremlonTV
10-30-2016, 07:22 AM #13

It depends on having a clear view. If many trees block the path, you won't get great outcomes.

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kenken0724
Member
178
10-30-2016, 12:00 PM
#14
something else, I assume there is power in this building??? Perhaps on its own circuit? You could use one of those networking over the power line thingamajigs
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kenken0724
10-30-2016, 12:00 PM #14

something else, I assume there is power in this building??? Perhaps on its own circuit? You could use one of those networking over the power line thingamajigs

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Derb1rD
Junior Member
7
10-30-2016, 07:17 PM
#15
Yes there is power in the building so PoE wouldnt really be necessary, just need a data line to get out there.
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Derb1rD
10-30-2016, 07:17 PM #15

Yes there is power in the building so PoE wouldnt really be necessary, just need a data line to get out there.

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axsthetiic
Member
218
10-30-2016, 11:58 PM
#16
When operating independently, powerline won't function. Even when shared on the same circuit, the distance is at least 150ft—still manageable for Ethernet, but powerline requires much farther wires due to interference. Use Cat5e or higher, outdoor-rated cable. Connect both ends to wall jacks, then run patch cables to the router and a dedicated access point. If your new router supports it, switch it to access point mode and plug it into a LAN port (avoid the WAN port).
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axsthetiic
10-30-2016, 11:58 PM #16

When operating independently, powerline won't function. Even when shared on the same circuit, the distance is at least 150ft—still manageable for Ethernet, but powerline requires much farther wires due to interference. Use Cat5e or higher, outdoor-rated cable. Connect both ends to wall jacks, then run patch cables to the router and a dedicated access point. If your new router supports it, switch it to access point mode and plug it into a LAN port (avoid the WAN port).

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luv1212
Member
61
10-31-2016, 02:31 AM
#17
Looking for alternatives to PoE, similar to the one shown here.
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luv1212
10-31-2016, 02:31 AM #17

Looking for alternatives to PoE, similar to the one shown here.

X
170
11-07-2016, 03:36 PM
#18
I suggest using a PoE AP when AC power isn't present in the workshop. An outdoor-rated cable would handle the job. It can be installed in conduit for easier routing, and if needed, it can also be laid bare without issues.
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xxSuperSweetxx
11-07-2016, 03:36 PM #18

I suggest using a PoE AP when AC power isn't present in the workshop. An outdoor-rated cable would handle the job. It can be installed in conduit for easier routing, and if needed, it can also be laid bare without issues.

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Tonelarone
Junior Member
30
11-07-2016, 04:07 PM
#19
It should cover up to 150 feet. You're 220 feet away from the router in a garage, especially with many trees nearby.
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Tonelarone
11-07-2016, 04:07 PM #19

It should cover up to 150 feet. You're 220 feet away from the router in a garage, especially with many trees nearby.

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Troshin92
Junior Member
9
11-17-2016, 02:08 PM
#20
We had identical setup as you mentioned. We installed an Ethernet cable and then buried it underground during construction. The forums suggested purchasing an inexpensive router to function as an access point, but we haven't acquired one yet.
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Troshin92
11-17-2016, 02:08 PM #20

We had identical setup as you mentioned. We installed an Ethernet cable and then buried it underground during construction. The forums suggested purchasing an inexpensive router to function as an access point, but we haven't acquired one yet.

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