Inquiries about setting up your home with Ethernet, HDMI, coaxial and wall USB connections
Inquiries about setting up your home with Ethernet, HDMI, coaxial and wall USB connections
Hi there. I'm completely new to all this, so I'm reaching out for guidance and to gain some knowledge. My parents' house is almost finished, and I'm planning to get it wired up. First, regarding Ethernet, I'm thinking about Cat 7 already, to make sure the house stays future-proof for upcoming IoT devices. However, finding bulk Cat 7 here is tough—except on Amazon, where I have to order it. I do have a Cat 6a, which is similar, but Cat 7 offers better shielding and supports more data. Do you think Cat 7 is still too much for today's needs? Should I stick with Cat 6a instead? Shielding matters a lot because I plan to run wires alongside electrical ones, especially since they're in plastic tubing. I'm worried about signal loss or damage if the cables get kinked or worn out. Since it's a concrete house, dry walls are essential.
About the Ethernet cable itself, I'm unsure if the flat Cat 7 cables I see online (up to 100ft) are suitable for long runs. I've heard they're not ideal because they lack proper shielding and might cause interference. I prefer twisted pairs with solid shielding, especially for running them along walls. The manufacturer on Amazon said they wouldn't recommend cutting or crimping flat cables, which makes me wonder if that's true. I also want to know if regular crimping tools work for flat ones.
I'm planning to install everything first, then add outlets and a network switch later. I have some questions about the layout and wiring structure. For example: Should every room have Ethernet ports? I need coverage in every floor, including the second floor. There should be two Wi-Fi spots per floor—each with its own Ethernet port. The female keystone will connect to an Ethernet cable, and everything will meet at the ceiling. The internet modem is on the second floor family room, connected to a gigabit switch in the attic via a keystone. Should I use a coupler or just connect directly? Is a separate network switch needed for better performance and privacy? Also, what about power-saving features like turning off the switch when not in use?
I'm also curious about the Asus network switch: does it support multiple ports per room? If an 8-port switch isn't enough, can I combine two switches or buy a bridge to get more ports? Will this affect speed? Do network switches need cooling? Can I power them off when not in use?
Regarding keystone adapters, couplers, and wall Ethernet ports—what's the difference? Should I mix coax, HDMI, and USB on the wall port? Or should I just buy pre-assembled wall ports? Also, what about using a keystone for both coax and Ethernet? Can you customize the ports on a wall port to include HDMI or USB? And how do keystone adapters work with wall USB charging? Are there any limitations on power delivery or compatibility?
Lastly, I want to know more about the overall design. Should I go for a clean, modern look with Asus switches, or is a simpler setup okay? What about the routing of cables and switches—will it slow things down? I really appreciate your help and want to get this right.
I might consider options like patch panels or mosaic systems, which are solutions for these kinds of projects
cat7 offers long-term reliability. The standard flat ones I own are outdated; in some areas special coated versions may be required for fire safety. My ISP or TV provider currently supports only one coax connection, though they might use Ethernet for certain satellite boxes based on the service and equipment. For IPTV, it’s advised to set up two separate connections—one for IPTV traffic and another for regular internet. I installed four Cat6 cables to all potential TV viewing spots. The main areas received an additional run for smart TV functionality, with two coax connections linked to a patch panel in the basement. I also have extra runs throughout the house for Wi-Fi access and future needs, such as a computer in the garage for research or car repair tutorials. Regarding USB charging, using the Keystone isn’t recommended. I’ve installed several built-in chargers in a power outlet; the Leviton models have performed well. For charging issues over distance, consider HDMI with proper cable setup—special one-way cables may be necessary. If you’re serious and budget allows, an HDMI over Ethernet solution like HDBaseT could work better. The newer standards now support USB and Ethernet in a single cable. Your dual router can function, but ensure it’s configured correctly to avoid conflicts. Adding a Wi-Fi extender or AP is preferred to eliminate dead zones. I use Unifi as my main network device and still rely on my ISP gateway for overall management. I also think Google Wi-Fi operates on its own network, which works fine, but a hardwired AP would be more reliable—especially if it’s PoE capable.
Cat7 isn't an official TIA/EIA standard, which means manufacturing differences will be significant in what is offered or promised versus what is actually provided. This doesn’t mean you’ll always receive poor Cat6 or Cat6a cables—just steer clear of CCA cables altogether. For 10GbE, opt for Cat6a and accept the limitations; otherwise, specific connectors are necessary to properly terminate Cat7, which can be costly. You’ll need a modem (assuming it’s a separate unit) connected to a router, then linking that to a switch. A pure modem assigns an IP only to the first device, leaving others without internet access. If using a combo unit or a router between, the router obtains its public IP and distributes private addresses internally. NAT management happens at the router level. Keystone is used for direct wire connections; couplers require the end to be terminated first before insertion. If you handle the wiring yourself, choosing a keystone and punching down wires is preferable to avoid wasted ends. This approach works, though it depends on your setup.