I'm just talking about how some router ads are trying too hard to sell.
I'm just talking about how some router ads are trying too hard to sell.
Hey everyone, I just wanted to share a frustrating experience I had. A few weeks back I purchased a router (Linksys AC1200). On the packaging it mentioned support for speeds up to 1200Mbps, which made me think it would be more than enough for my fiber connection. I also aimed for a budget option since I didn’t need a top-of-the-line model. My main goal was to stream movies while relaxing or use my phone, and I connected it via cable for gaming.
During setup, I discovered that the actual maximum download speed was only 90Mbps on Wi-Fi. Initially, I assumed my main router was the issue, but after some investigation everything seemed fine. I could achieve 400Mbps down on Wi-Fi, 800Mbps over cable, and even 90Mbps with the cable connection itself. When I switched to using a cable directly connected to the router, the speed dropped to 90Mbps once more.
I did some research and learned that the ports on this router don’t support Gigabit speeds, limiting it to 100/10. This meant the real speed came from the connection between the router and my device, not from the internet itself. It was surprising to find out that the 1200Mbps figure was actually just the link speed, not my actual internet performance.
I’m sorry for any confusion this caused and hope it doesn’t encourage anyone else to make the same mistake. I think companies shouldn’t be able to hide this kind of limitation. Attached is a picture of the box for reference.
The connection speed comes from a Wi-Fi 5 device operating at 5Gbps, which can reach up to 1200Mbps. The router appears to be a standard 10/100 port, not a true gigabit model. According to the Amazon packaging, it lists "fast Ethernet" ports, which is misleading for people unfamiliar with networking terminology. It’s intentionally confusing to hide the actual capabilities from average users. When you examine the label closely, it actually shows four Fast Ethernet ports.
For future planning, the speeds listed on WiFi routers represent their ideal performance limits for each WiFi version they support. In real-world settings, no device reaches those theoretical peaks. It's similar to a direct line of sight between the router and the device without any barriers. To fully utilize a gigabit downlink, you'll need WiFi 6. WiFi 5 (AC) typically delivers around 400-500Mbps.
They promote the Wi-Fi performance and combine 2.4 Ghz with 5Ghz capabilities. Pay close attention to the details, since simultaneous use of both frequencies isn't possible—only the speed for the designated band is available. That’s the key point; budget routers usually cost less because they avoid using slower Ethernet connections. Additionally, even with Gigabit ports, a router doesn’t automatically mean it supports full Gigabit internet. The actual speed depends on the internal hardware. Most routers labeled as "Gigabit" often lack proper Gigabit NAT support, which can limit your internet performance if you opt for a higher plan.
Not entirely accurate, I reached 850Mbit with WiFi 5, WiFi 6 boosts it to nearly 940Mbit (though probably not in the price range). Both often drop significantly below that, and I can't reliably maintain speeds over 400-500Mbit even on WiFi 6. This is just how wireless works and how airwave conditions shift. Your initial error was purchasing a router solely to expand WiFi coverage into your bedroom. It might help, but it's usually better to use an Access Point or a model supporting Access Point mode—those are less common in budget options. Your concerns still apply, but router marketing is often unclear. Could you tell if your main router didn’t receive any signal in the bedroom? Even 2.4GHz should suffice for streaming (about 25Mbit for 4K) and general phone use. Downloading large files is where faster WiFi adds real value.
. I reside in a three-story building. The main router is on the first level. I installed a Wi-Fi booster from my ISP on the second floor. Everything functions well on both floors, but on the third floor (my bedroom) there was no signal at all, so I couldn't install another booster. Fortunately, I have an Ethernet cable connecting the first floor to my room. I considered purchasing a budget router and linking the main one to it (using a small TP-link switch). I turned off DHCP on the second router to avoid conflicts. I also assigned it a static IP for easier configuration. I mainly rely on the second router for streaming movies or browsing the web.
Sorry for the delayed reply. Weekend was hectic
. I reside in a three-story building. The main router is on the first level. I installed a Wi-Fi booster from my ISP on the second floor. Everything functions well on both floors, but on the third floor (my bedroom) there was no signal at all, so I couldn't install another booster. Fortunately, I have an Ethernet cable connecting the first floor to my room. I considered purchasing a budget router and linking the main one to it (using a small TP-link switch). I turned off DHCP on the second router to avoid conflicts. I also assigned it a static IP for easier configuration. I mainly rely on the second router for streaming movies or browsing the web.