Hi, I need some advice on how to put together a PC for my dad.
Hi, I need some advice on how to put together a PC for my dad.
If you need more convincing, read this post about Thermaltake Smart PSUs. https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/commen..._disliked/ The reason why Smart PSUs got a bad reputation is because they used a very old design known as "double-forward with group technology". If you load the +12V rail in a group-regulated PSU with a powerful GPU, the +5V and +3.3V rails can drift outside their limits (±5% for 5V and ±4% for 3.3V). Excessively low (or high) voltage on the 5V or 3.3V rails is bad news for your motherboard and other components. Group regulated PSUs do not provide stable voltage on all three rails when one rail is heavily loaded. In addition there's doubt if Smart PSUs include all the necessary under/over voltage/current/temperature protection limits. If you cheap out on protection and the PSU catches fire, it could destroy the whole PC. To quote from the above link: "I’ve used the 80+ whites before and they’re so widely disliked because they’re just plain unreliable at best and dangerous to hardware at worst. Out of around 30 that I’ve used 5 failed only taking the psu with it, 7 failed taking additional hardware with it, and 2 failed taking external hardware with them. They were spread over the course of around 4 years but a failure is a failure." A full review involves connecting thousands of dollars worth of digital programmable loads to the PSU and checking it over a wide range of output powers. The reviewer sometimes does a partial strip down of the PSU, unsoldering capacitors and MOSFETs, to check circuit design and component quality. You don't see this level of testing in simple reviews, which merely describe the PSU's outward appearance, then quote from the manufacturer's product page verbatim. Not a real test. If you're considering a $45 PSUs, you're taking a risk. Not quite as bad as a $25 fire bomb, but not brilliant either. A cheap PSU might work for years in a basic PC without a separate GPU, but it's similar to buying cheap remolds for a sports car. Not worth the risk. Really cheap PSUs come with a 3 year warranty or maybe just 1 year. The manufacturer simply isn't prepared to guarantee it any longer. Better PSUs have a 5-year warranty. Next, there's 7-years, 10-years and finally 12-years. Which PSU do you think has a better design and good quality components, a 3-year waranty or a 10-year warranty PSU? Quality and safety cost money. I appreciate you may be working with a limited budget, but would you mind if your whole investment went up in smoke due to a cheap PSU failure? If your father will be running Microsoft Flight Simulator 2025, you should read this:- https://www.positioniseverything.net/bes...ying_Guide Microsoft have increased hardware requirements considerably with the 2025 release. CPU Requirements The processor is the brain of your flight simulator experience. For smooth flying, look for: High clock speeds (4.0 GHz or higher) Multiple cores (at least 6 cores recommended) Newer generations (for better performance) Graphics Card Considerations The graphics card will make your virtual skies look amazing. Here’s what to look for: Spec Minimum Recommended VRAM 8 GB 12+ GB Generation Current-1 Current Performance Level Mid-range High-end RAM and Storage Flight Simulator 2025 is hungry for memory. We suggest: 32 GB RAM at minimum for smoother gameplay SSD storage is a must-have (not optional!) At least 150 GB free space for the base game Some people recommend 64GB RAM or even 96GB RAM for Flight Simulator which is getting "silly". You can get by with 32GB, or 16GB if you're desperate. https://forums.flightsimulator.com/t/is-...4gb/704261 Good luck with the build.
Also, the quality of parts like VRMs, how thick the baseboard is, the trace work, coatings, and many other small details all decide why one board costs more than another. They aren't exactly the same no matter which chipset family or low-cost model you pick. Low-cost boards are just cheap for a reason. Mid-range boards usually have better quality but lack some extra features found on top-end boards. Low-end boards, on the other hand, are strictly basic. That doesn't mean you can't get a decent board at a reasonable price. It takes a bit of research and some experience to find one that fits your needs.
Thanks for finishing my post. I was on my phone and only had time for a quick reply. I figured those follow-up questions would get everyone else to say their part. But you are definitely 100% correct here. There is so much to consider that it's always overwhelming if you're not experienced in the ins and outs. At least 5600 watt hours is low, and the VRMs and power delivery don't need top-end gear for it.
Here is a review of a great single-stack Thermalright cooler that will keep your dad from losing their mind as the stock AMD cooling goes in and out constantly. I've built lots of Ryzen systems, including two of my own, so let me be clear: you can do fine with one of those stock coolers, but if you don't have to, you should get a better one. Those stock ones are enough to keep it from melting (sort of), but the constant ups and downs and full speed running will take away any fun you might have had. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600 3.5 GHz 6-Core Processor ($116.00 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Assassin X 120 Refined SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($17.89 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock B550M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($105.94 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory ($54.99 @ Newegg) Storage: PNY CS900 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($44.88 @ Amazon) Video Card: ASRock Challenger D Radeon RX 6600 8 GB Video Card ($219.99 @ Newegg) Case: Zalman S2 ATX Mid Tower Case ($53.95 @ Newegg Sellers) Power Supply: ADATA XPG Core Reactor II 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.98 @ Amazon) Total: $693.62 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2025-05-31 13:11 EDT-0400
Lol, I got ripped off by some bad reviews about a game controller. Everyone said it was super cool and that the build quality is great, but when it comes to how comfortable it feels in my hands, it's actually the worst thing I've ever touched. Every time you check an Amazon review and don't read carefully, you're just betting your own money on bad things.
Hi, I'm making a PC for my dad so he can play Microsoft Flight Simulator. Is that a good build? Would buying an extra $20 power supply like the Core Reactor make sense? Also, if we're flying back internationally on this thing, any tips to keep it all working properly? Should I try packing everything into carry-on luggage? Thanks!