Here are good long-term safe settings for a Ryzen 3600 when overclocking:
Here are good long-term safe settings for a Ryzen 3600 when overclocking:
Okay a few days ago I got a new ryzen 3600 and it was worth the upgrade (it used to be a 1500x). But today it's super hot. Google said 32 but it feels like 35, so even with PBO on, my boost goes up to 4 to 4.2 ghz but the heat is bad. It shoots straight to 76 degrees and then slowly climbs to 81 or 84 degrees. So I started testing a fixed overclock and managed to get it running at 4.2 ghz with 1.2 volts (naturally dropping to about 1.18 volt under load thanks to vdrop). When I start Cinebench, the temps are around 60 but they slowly rise to about 71 degrees. But last night someone in an overclock forum told me that a fixed overclock can kill a Ryzen 3000 and it's better to leave it at stock settings because long term this could hurt the chip. So now I don't know whether to keep it stock with higher temps and slower speed, or stick with the overclock. My specs are: Asrock B450 HDV R4.0 (I know this board is bad for OC, it has 4 phases and no heatsink, so I put an 80mm fan blowing air right at the VRMs), 16GB Corsair Vengeance 3200 Cl16 (with Ryzen safe optimized timings), a R5 3600 with Arctic Freezer 33 eSports edition cooling, an Msi GTX 1650Super Ventus XS OC which isn't certified, and a non-cooled Cooler Master 550w power supply (I plan on upgrading this soon). My case has an 120mm intake fan spinning at 1200rpm and two 80mm exhaust fans spinning at 1600rpm. So... I'm happy with my temps and the performance in single and multi scores is great, PPT, TDC, and EDC are all below 100% under full load. My only question is: Is this manual overclock going to damage my chip over time?
Your values should be fine, but people back in the day thought 1.3V was always okay. It turns out that's not true anymore. With Ryzen 3000 series CPUs, each one has its own safe voltage range. To figure out what yours is, turn off overclocking and set Power Limit Optimization (PBO) to automatic. Make sure the LLC setting is on. Close any other software except HWiNFO64, then scroll down to look at "CPU Core Voltage SVI2 TFN" in the CPU section. That number shows exactly how many volts your processor is getting right now. Remember that Core VID is what the chip asks for, but this value tells you what it's actually receiving. Then, either run Prime95 or OCCT and do a quick FFT test on all of your cores to check everything out.
You don't need to trust what you see online; your OC does more than the default settings can handle. It has higher power, runs cooler, and uses less electricity than a standard BIOS usually allows.
Your settings probably look okay at first, but people talking about limits back in the day only saw 1.3 volts as safe. Turns out, a few people found out too late that it was way too much for some machines. When you get to Ryzen processors like the 3000 series, each one has its own specific limit. To find yours: Turn off your manual overclocking and make sure PBO is set to maximum. Also turn on Auto LLC software. Close all other apps except HWiNFO64. Scroll down to "CPU Core Voltage SVI2 TFN." This number tells you exactly how many volts you are actually getting from the CPU (Core VID just shows what it wants, not what it receives). Load a stress test like Prime95 or OCCT and run an FFT on all your cores while watching the voltage. It might jump around a bit before finally settling at one steady point; that final number is your FIT Voltage, which is the maximum safe amount for your chip. Remember, this limit depends heavily on your specific CPU model. I've seen some people say 1.3 volts works, others say even 1.2 volts is fine. You should never go above your FIT voltage, and if you want to be extra careful, aim lower than that number too. Also, heat matters a lot here; even if the voltages are safe, if you're constantly hitting 80 degrees or higher, the CPU could get damaged over time. If you have a brand-new processor, it can usually handle great voltages without problems back then. But early versions of these chips were bad at that, though since late February this year or so, more and more CPUs are hitting high speeds on lower voltages today.
Thanks for getting back to me. I bought this chip on Amazon last month in preorder, so I think it's pretty new. My SV12 stayed around 1.35 volts after six minutes, but sometimes it would jump up and down between 1.3 and 1.38 volts here is the screenshot: Everything was fine except for the XMP profile. Also, Power reporting feels a bit too high to me.
No problem at all, it seems that you have a very nice CPU. That means that your OC is perfectly safe, if you find a way to get your temperatures under control a bit, you can even bring up your voltage to see if you can hit 4.3 (or even 4.4) all-core. If you do get the heat controlled, I'd still recommend that you do not go over 1.28v just to be safe. (That's what I'd do if I had your CPU, and I won't advise things to people that I'd not do myself). For reference, I've got a 3700x that has a fit of 1.25v I run 4.2 all core at 1.218v (purely for temperature reasons, it's much more chilled this way and I don't notice any performance drops). If you want to squeeze our more performance, try and tighten your RAM timings a bit. You said that you have the Corsair Vengence, (you may have the same as I do), if that's the case then tighten your timings to CL14. I hit 14-17-17-17-34 at 1.4v and I've not had the time to really see what else I can do (work takes up all my time), but I do have a feeling that 3600CL16 should be possible. The one caveat to that is that the Corsair Vengence 8gb sticks come in 2 dies, Samsung C-die and a low-grade B-die. If you have the B-die variant, then 1.4v is perfectly fine, but if you have the C-die, do you exceed 1.35v. I've even heard that lowering the voltage on C-die sometimes helps stability for the OCs. Unfortunately, the only real way to check what you have is by opening your case and looking on the RAM stick itself. What you're looking for is a version number (an amazing thing that corsair does to make identifying easier). If your 16Gb is 2x8gb sticks (I hope that it is) then the version numbers mean: 4.31: B-die 4.32: C-die If you have something else, then the full list is here. Note that this is important as sometimes thaiphoon burner gets lost between c-die and b-die. (If you have b-die, don't jump too high just yet, officially this is 'down binned' b-die' and that means that it is sometimes not the good stuff that gets people hyped about - you'll just have to test what you have.) If you have c-die, then this place will be of great help to you. Another way to get more performance is with FCLK overclocking. If you cannot get 3600 on your RAM then see if you can increase your FCLK to 1900. Generally speaking, you want FCLK and RAM speeds to be 1:1 (so 3200:1600) as having it otherwise will force a latency penalty. However, the exception to that rule is if you can get your FCLK to be over 200mhz faster than your RAM speeds. A note on FCLK First, not all processors will hit 1900, bad ones will be stuck at 1700, most go to 1800, the better ones go to 1900. This is because you're playing the silicon lottery all over again, this time with your IO die. That means that you can have an excellent all core OC, but since the IO die is a different chip entirely, that needs to be good as well.
My 3600 ram pulls 120 watts in my same setup, so I think your board is underestimating the power draw. The voltage should be around 1.25 to 1.275 volts for a safe overclock, which means you can easily hit 4.3 gigahertz or more with that. I'd definitely try getting the memory clocked up to 3600 megahertz like the other guy suggested. Oh wait, it looks like your EDC is stuck at 70 amps but the stock limit is actually 90 amps and my board runs at full power at 90 amps even when I set EDC to 250 amps.
Thanks for all this info. According to Thaiphoon Burner, my RAM is a Hynix A-die. I plan to leave it alone at 4.2ghz and 1.2v for now because my motherboard isn't the best for overclocking, and my power supply unit seems to be near its limit, getting really hot. So I'm not going to try harder yet. I really appreciate this info; it will definitely help me once I upgrade my case and PSU (one that is at least 80+ bronze). Also, my monitor runs at 75hz, and my graphics card is a GTX1650S. At the moment, the CPU performance works well enough for all my other parts. Prepared by Thaiphoon Burner Super Blaster