Helpful person is struggling with a recent upgrade. Trying to boost an Intel i5 8600K and GTX1070.
Helpful person is struggling with a recent upgrade. Trying to boost an Intel i5 8600K and GTX1070.
I received a 512GB NVMe SSD ordered today. I found a refurbished unit online with only 1800 reads and 1200 writes, which is still significantly faster than the SSD used for the OS installation. Is there a method to move Windows onto that drive after setup, or should I reinstall it? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks for the guidance! It’s really helpful—I’ve checked GSKill and Corsair options, as they’re more common on second-hand platforms. Should I stick with new parts or is there a reason to go refurbished? Also, I need clarification on the Hwinfo request: what exactly should I provide—an overview or specific categories? There are many export options available; let me know when you have more details!
Your RAM is being overclocked and operating at 1373 instead of the intended 1333. I’m not sure if this is the reason for the 2T command rate. Have you manually adjusted it, which might actually be reducing performance overall? Running XMP 2666CL16 or a lower CL could improve speed, but aim to achieve a stable 1T clock speed. Your RAM should be either new, used, or refurbished—ensure it meets both speed (MHz/MT/s) and CL requirements. CL significantly impacts performance; for example, 2666CL13 is likely better than 3200CL22 despite slower speeds, thanks to lower latency gains.
you only activated xmp 1 in bios, haven’t adjusted anything else with the ram. i’m not sure what those settings mean either. how can i get the results you’re talking about? should i just turn off xmp and run at the default speed of 2666mhz? i’ll look up what the numbers stand for, okay? when you say run xmp2666cl16, do you mean keep xmp1 on but lower it in advanced settings? i’m trying to understand timing and timing options. i should still have xmp1 active, just make sure it’s set properly. i need to know more about what you mean by those parameters. most new rams I see are 3200mhz cl16, and from what i’ve learned so far they should work fine for me. i mainly want more memory than speed because i handle many tasks at once, but maybe it would help if it was faster too. i’m not sure if i can afford new ones this month—i could find cheaper used ones or wait. i put a small amount on two m2 sticks this month, thinking about one that had time left in an auction and no bids. i got it for about 10 euros (several thousand kronor). i’m using it mostly for 256gb memory since i haven’t used it before, and i have another slot. i’m wondering if changing the cpu thermal paste while installing the sticks would help, since the chip is at least 5 years old and usually warms up to around 80-85 degrees under load. what do you think?
I see your idea about command rates. 1T means one command per tick, 2T means every two ticks. Running at 1T usually boosts performance more than just a small MHz jump at 2T. I’m not sure how to switch to 1T if you’ve already enabled XMP1 and haven’t adjusted RAM settings much. Also, if you’re working near the CPU to install an M.2 drive, it might be simpler to skip the heatsink for a closer fit in the nearest slot—this is often the faster M.2 slot. If you plan to reattach the cooler, consider removing it and installing the SSD directly in the closest slot (the larger one) before reattaching the cooler and swapping drives.
I'll keep the focus on your situation. Let's break down what's happening here. It seems like you're dealing with some hardware and software issues that are making it tricky to get everything working smoothly. You mentioned having a thermal paste that's still intact, which is good news. The fact that pressing it out feels normal suggests no immediate damage.
Now, regarding the new drives: you had a 512GB Gen3 NVMe and a 1TB Gen4 NVMe. After migrating your OS to the 512GB drive for a few days, everything worked fine until you got the 1TB one. The BIOS didn't recognize it, and you couldn't boot properly. You tried updating the BIOS on a USB drive, which reset things, but still no display of the new drive in either Windows or Disk Management.
It sounds like there might be a compatibility issue with the Gen3 controller or perhaps a mismatch between the firmware and the new hardware. The fact that you can see the other 1TB drive works suggests the problem is likely with the BIOS settings or driver configuration for the newer model.
You're also dealing with a sound issue using EARTRUMPET, which might be related to audio drivers or volume settings. It seems like tweaking those settings helped temporarily.
Given these challenges, it would be wise to:
- Double-check your BIOS version and ensure it supports Gen3 NVMe drives.
- Try updating the firmware for both drives.
- Consult official documentation for your motherboard and NVMe controller.
- Consider using a different USB port or cable if possible.
Let me know if you want help with any specific step!
I’ll check it out and test it myself. I’ve been searching for more RAM, but cash hasn’t been an option yet. I’m aiming for at least 32 GB at 3200 MHz, though I might settle for 32 if I find a cheaper 64 GB option. It also explained why my “Safe Start” was turned off—possibly a previous setting. That unlocked the upgrade path to Win 11. I’ve updated my BIOS and noticed it’s disabled, which helped me progress. I’m keeping an eye on the situation until I can afford more RAM. ^^
The audio issue seemed to improve after removing two cables, making it 5.1 surround sound. I kept all three plugs in the motherboard all the time, applied a win update, tried various fixes, and even unplugged/reinstalled drivers before switching to black, orange, and green cables. Suddenly everything worked perfectly. WTF XD
I didn't plug anything in, so I can't confirm which port was used. Could you clarify where you connected the monitor cable?