Have you considered how this arrangement will look?
Have you considered how this arrangement will look?
Hello everyone! I’m about to switch our internet service and will need to upgrade from our current Wi-Fi network to something more modern. I’m not very experienced, so I wanted your opinion on whether my ideas are reasonable. The new provider will use an Ethernet cable to connect to a router in our office, which the new company will supply. We’ll have two Ethernet cables: one goes into a GigabitSwitch NETGEAR GS108UK and the other into a Powerline Adapter. The second adapter will link to our existing Wi-Fi setup in the living room. I plan to turn off the Wi-Fi settings on the new router so we keep the current network stable, aiming to avoid any big drop in speed while using the powerline adapters. Does this sound good? What do you think? Your thoughts would be really helpful! Thanks, Franz!
Hi, I noticed your router includes Wi-Fi. I assume it likely has at least four Ethernet ports, which is typical for most ISPs. Unless those ports are not Gigabit, you probably won’t need the switch. If you want extra space for future upgrades, buying a switch makes sense initially to save money. You’d only need the switch if your router lacks sufficient or Gigabit ports. Connecting everything through the switch would improve speed within your network. Powerline adapters may reduce throughput slightly, but strong connections should compensate.
2. I suggest getting a router/modem/switch/access point package that your ISP supports. This can save you money over time compared to paying for their outdated equipment. You can find these at any major retailer or on Amazon. If you tell me your ISP, I can give more tailored advice.
3. A major drawback of owning your own router is that most ISPs only cover the area up to the cable entering your router—they aren’t obligated to extend service beyond that.
4. You’re correct about turning off built-in Wi-Fi. Please share the model of your access point if you’d like more specific guidance.
Here’s a revised version of your message:
Hi @Giiman95, thanks for your response! The diagram you shared matches exactly what I was considering. We’re moving to a 1 Gigabit Fibre Broadband plan from Hyperoptic. Our current router (ASUS-RT-AC87U) is set up to manage the Wi-Fi network, and it’s now running much more reliably after switching to the new router. Your feedback means a lot! I’m even more confident this will perform as expected.
@SupaKomputa You’re right about the router supporting Gigabit Ethernet. The limitation is that the hardware only handles 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi. When you connect the powerline adapter to the switch, do you think it could become a bottleneck for our internet traffic? Since we’re handling many transfers between the two devices and the file server, adding the switch might help optimize performance and reduce strain on the router from the ISP. I’m not sure if this makes sense, but I’d appreciate your thoughts.
Best,
Your current configuration works fine, but the routers and gateways from most ISPs aren’t very reliable. I’d verify whether their router is truly necessary for your connection—it seems to function like a modem. If it does, you could make it pass through. If not, switching to a high-quality router with gigabit ports would be ideal. For wired setups, a switch might be useful. If you opt for a solid wireless router, you might skip the second access point entirely. Alternatively, consider removing powerline adapters and using a wireless AC repeater that connects to an outlet and boosts your main Wi-Fi signal throughout the house. I’m currently using a WRT1900AC, which still delivers strong coverage across two to three houses at over 150 Mbps. Inside my home, AC speeds exceed 400 Mbps, more than sufficient for most wireless devices. That said, my experience may differ because I’m on the second floor with upgraded antennas for better reach. Still, a decent router should be affordable—150-200 dollars should cover most of your home with a Wi-Fi adapter for consistent signal. Eliminating powerline technology will likely yield better overall performance, similar to how AC adapters work with Wi-Fi.
Man, a single gigabit internet connection would really help. I wish it was cheaper for my location in the US. @SupaKomputa mentioned adding a switch to the network. With any setup, overload is possible, but unplugging and plugging it back in should resolve that issue. An idea: use a $15 Christmas tree light timer to cut power to your router at midnight and then turn it off for a minute. This lets the router reset and gives you a fresh connection each morning. This approach was suggested partly by me and @AngryBeaver as an alternative to the hyperoptic model. I’ve also looked into hyperoptic more closely, and their routers look solid. I think they can handle what you need. I strongly discourage the AC repeater idea from @AngryBeaver. Repeaters amplify weak signals, which can cause problems. Better options include mesh networks from companies like Google, Ubiquiti, or Linksys—they create a separate invisible network for your devices. Power-line networking works but isn’t always reliable. The ideal solution would be Ethernet cables throughout the house or a MoCA network. Are you trying to reach your NAS from the living room or other wireless devices?
Key points from the Hyperoptic website include:
- Our support staff are familiar with Hyperoptic routers, but assistance with third-party models may be limited.
- Customers with 1Gig fibre broadband need no special setup.
- DNS servers listed are 141.0.144.2 and 188.172.144.204; you can adjust your own settings if needed.
- To combine your router with Hyperoptic’s, follow these steps: connect your router’s LAN port to our router’s LAN port, turn off DHCP on your device, and disable the wireless signal on the Hyperoptic unit (or contact support for assistance). This allows use of both services.
It's not an issue with signal strength. Beam-forming is only effective for downloads, not uploads. MIMO supports just one beam-formed link at once, which can introduce extra delay. Observing how quickly 2.4GHz was absorbed by devices suggests more users switching to 5GHz will also reduce performance. 5GHz repeaters should be placed nearer to the router because of the shorter distance they cover. They perform well in many scenarios, similar to your setup @AngryBeaver, though not universally ideal. EDIT: MU-MIMO handles multiple beams simultaneously, but devices with this feature tend to cost more due to newer technology. Edited February 23, 2018 by Giiman95 Adding to comment
Mesh networks aren't essential for a modest home setup. They resemble an extender or repeater arrangement, but differ in that each device can communicate directly with any other without relying on a single hub. In contrast, repeaters depend on one central point such as a wireless router, repeating the signal to cover space. Mesh technology is typically applied in expansive areas like businesses, while repeaters are more common in smaller networks. I don’t claim mesh isn’t effective, but it’s unnecessary for typical home use where similar outcomes can be achieved.