Gigabyte Offset Voltage
Gigabyte Offset Voltage
As discussed in the previous thread ( similar issues arise for me. I can achieve "Normal" and +0.000 V only at a specific frequency (3.5 GHz), which isn’t ideal. Once I set the CPU clock multiplier to 46, even without further adjustments, the system fails to boot. I experimented with various settings but nothing changed the outcome—even after a full reset to 3.5 GHz or enabling "Relax OC" at 2133 MHz, I still couldn’t get a boot. I followed a method I thought would help, though it’s just for reference (values are illustrative): 1. Access the BIOS of my stable overclocked CPU (e.g., 4.6 GHz OC, VCore 1.344V). 2. Adjust the CPU Vcore to “Normal” using Intel’s recommended stock voltage. 3. Leave “Dynamic Vcore(DVID)” unchanged at +0.000V. 4. Save and shut down completely (not just restart) to ensure VCore is set correctly. 5. In Windows, check the “Normal” Vcore value via CPUID HWMonitor or CPU-Z. 6. Return to BIOS. 7. To maintain the original OC at 1.344V, adjust DVID offset accordingly: - Reduce DVID offset by -0.024 to reach 1.344V (which equals 1.368V minus 0.024V). 8. Save and shut down fully to confirm the adjustment. 9. In Windows, you’ll still run at 4.6 GHz but with VCore idle at 0.804V and idle at 1.344V. I’m aware that disabling LLC (Load Line Calibration) might help in some cases, but it didn’t change the result here—no boot occurred. What are your thoughts on this “hands-on” approach? Shouldn’t it be effective? Are there any details I’m overlooking?
The same issue arises with me too. I can achieve "Normal" and +0.000 V only at stock 3.5 GHz, which isn’t ideal. Once I added the CPU Clock multiplier (46), even without further adjustments, the system wouldn’t boot. It seems like a coincidence.
Here’s the approach I considered, which I believe could help (values are just examples):
1. Access the BIOS of your stable overclocked CPU (e.g., 4.6 GHz OC with VCore at 1.344 V).
2. Adjust the CPU Vcore to “Normal,” using Intel’s recommended stock voltage for the current settings.
3. Leave “Dynamic Vcore(DVID)” unchanged at its default of +0.000V (just enter 0.000).
4. Save (F10) and completely power down (not just restart) to ensure VCore is set correctly.
5. In Windows, check the “Normal” Vcore value (e.g., 1.368) using CPUID HWMonitor or CPU-Z.
6. Return to BIOS.
7. To maintain the existing OC at 1.344 V, adjust Dynamic Vcore(DVID) by the appropriate offset:
- Reduce it by -0.024 to reach 1.344 V (which equals 1.368 V minus 0.024 V).
8. Save (F10) and fully shut down again to confirm the offset is applied.
9. Back in Windows, you’ll still be at 4.6 GHz, but with VCore set to idle at 0.804 V and load at 1.344 V.
I’m aware that disabling LLC (Load Line Calibration) might help, though it didn’t change the outcome in my case. It’s unclear whether this step is necessary or helpful.
What are your thoughts based on your own experience with DVID Offset? Shouldn’t this method be effective? Am I overlooking something?
burnhamjs :
philipew :
The same thing happens to me. I can get "Normal" and +0.000 V working but only at stock 3.5 GHz (not great). The moment I put in the CPU Clock multiplier (46), even with absolutely nothing else changed, it no longer boots. I tried multiple combinations but even a complete stock reset (3.5 GHz) and "Relax OC" for the memory (also unchanged at stock 2133 MHz) offers no more booting. Just bad luck I suppose.
Here is the method I had in mind, which I think is sound (the values are for illustrative purposes only of course) - I wrote it on the back of an envelope while sitting on the plane:
1. Go to the BIOS of your already stable overclocked CPU (e.g. 4.6 GHz OC and VCore value of 1.344 V)
2. Set CPU Vcore to “Normal”, the stock voltage recommended by Intel, based on the current settings
3. Keep “Dynamic Vcore(DVID)” (which lights up just under) unchanged at its default value of +0.000V (just enter 0.000)
4. Save (F10) then completely shut down (
not just a restart
) to make sure that “Normal” is applied to VCore
5. Back in Windows, read the “Normal” VCore value (e.g. 1.368) via CPUID HWMonitor and/or CPU-Z
6. Go back to the BIOS
7. To keep your existing OC running at 1.344 V, offset the Dynamic Vcore(DVID) by the right amount:
8. - Lower “Dynamic Vcore(DVID)” using an offset of -0.024 to reach 1.344 V (= 1.368 V – 0.024 V)
9. - Save (F10) then completely shut down (
not just a restart
) to make sure that the offset is fully applied
10. Back in Windows you will still be at 4.6 GHz, but with VCore “idle” at 0.804 V and VCore “load” at 1.344 V
I know that LLC (Load Line Calibration) can also be disabled if it interferes, but in my case it makes no difference - no boot.
What do you think with your "hands-on" experience with DVID Offset? Shouldn't this method work? Am I missing something?
philipew - while I don't think we have found a definite answer, there is one additional step that I recommend adding which may or may not be contributing to my success as well as ZEBuckeye81's. (basically going from AUTO to NORMAL instead of going from a manual vcore to NORMAL.)
1. Go to the BIOS of your already stable overclocked CPU (e.g. 4.6 GHz OC and VCore value of 1.344 V)
and set Vcore to AUTO.
1a. Save (F10) then completely shut down (not just a restart) to make sure that
“AUTO”
is applied to VCore
It was difficult to get it to go into the "Auto" mode (3 attempts), then it took several more shutdown/restart sessions to get the "Normal" to stick. From there I never got Windows to complete its run. It would stop on the blue window (black background), with or without a few turning dots underneath, then freeze. On other attempts it would write under the blue window: "PREPARING AUTOMATIC REPAIR" (no turning dots) then feeze. It never got any further than that.. I must have tried a good dozen times. In the end I was afraid to cause problems in Windows (corruption, etc.). But after the last trial, when I restarted with my saved OC settings, it came back as before. There must be something in my settings. They also more extensive than yours. I will publish them later so that you can have a look. Maybe I should simplify them....
It was tough getting it into the "Auto" mode (three tries), then several shutdown/restart cycles were needed to make "Normal" work. From there, Windows would freeze on the blue window with or without a few turning dots, then stop. On other attempts it would display "PREPARING AUTOMATIC REPAIR" without dots and then freeze. It never progressed beyond that point. I likely ran into problems trying to fix it (corruption, etc.), but after restarting with my saved settings, it returned to normal. It seems there might be something in my settings that needs adjustment. They’re more detailed than yours. I’ll share them later so you can review. Maybe simplifying them would help...
It was challenging to get it into the "Auto" mode (three attempts), followed by several shutdown/restart cycles needed to lock in the "Normal" setting. From that point on, Windows would halt at the blue window with a black background, sometimes accompanied by a few spinning dots, then freeze. On other tries, it displayed under the blue window saying "PREPARING AUTOMATIC REPAIR" without any dots and then froze. It never progressed beyond that stage. I likely ran many attempts, worried about causing Windows issues (corruption, etc.). After the final test, restarting with my saved OC settings restored it to its previous state. It seems there might be something in my configuration that needs adjustment. They also have more comprehensive settings than yours. I plan to share them later so you can review. Perhaps simplifying them would help...
Wow – yes, I didn’t experience such problems before. I’ve never encountered any issues switching between manual Vcore and AUTO Vcore. What BIOS version are you using?
I’m running the latest F6 BIOS (this build is only six months old), but it probably gave up on the "DVID Offset" VCore after that. Continuing to try it doesn’t seem worthwhile from my perspective. The current settings don’t provide the flexibility I needed for the "load" VCore value, which still stays within the 12mV range (1.260, 1.272, ..., up to 1.440). It’s also unclear if it can return to a perfectly stable "before DVID offset" state without losing performance.
I was aiming to adjust the load value slightly lower, like setting it to 1.280 V instead of 1.284 V, even if it’s just a small change. The significant drop in DVID offset is good, but only affects idle voltage. At idle, current is much lower than under load, so the power saving is minimal. The real concern is the impact on temperature during load – what I want is a reduction in heat when the CPU is working.
Besides saving money each year, setting VCore to "Normal" (DVID offset) doesn’t improve CPU performance noticeably. I’m used to keeping BIOS settings like VCCIO, VCCSA, and PCH at "Normal" for better power efficiency under load. This helps reduce overall power use and temperature. However, at idle, the current is far lower than when under load, making the savings negligible.
What I’m after is reducing temperature specifically during operation. Besides saving a few cents annually, this setting doesn’t enhance performance. I’m not convinced the benefits justify the drawbacks of using DVID offset, which might explain why Gigabyte doesn’t promote it and its setup feels clunky compared to other guides. It’s rarely used by serious overclockers like TweakTown, and it has a low profile within the community.
I’m still searching for something valuable. Unlike the i7, the 6600K doesn’t have a BIOS option to improve current quality by tweaking PWM phase control (e.g., Extreme Performance). This is exactly what I need – better current could allow a more stable OC and bring the load VCore down into the 12mV range without sacrificing performance.
Thank you for sharing this insight. It’s a unique aspect of the Gigabyte ecosystem.