F5F Stay Refreshed Hardware Desktop Found the (broken) Xeon Platinum 8180

Found the (broken) Xeon Platinum 8180

Found the (broken) Xeon Platinum 8180

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Calpex
Junior Member
11
04-18-2016, 11:36 PM
#1
You don’t necessarily need the Die Mate WS 3647 unless you plan to use it repeatedly or for original creation. A single use with other tools should be fine.
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Calpex
04-18-2016, 11:36 PM #1

You don’t necessarily need the Die Mate WS 3647 unless you plan to use it repeatedly or for original creation. A single use with other tools should be fine.

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Phunthime
Junior Member
18
04-19-2016, 03:08 AM
#2
They aren't soldered, so you can simply run a blade around the outside edge of the IHS plate to remove the glue. This will free the plate and you're done. Thin shaving razors work best. If the plate has two sides, place tape on one side to avoid cutting yourself. Good luck!
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Phunthime
04-19-2016, 03:08 AM #2

They aren't soldered, so you can simply run a blade around the outside edge of the IHS plate to remove the glue. This will free the plate and you're done. Thin shaving razors work best. If the plate has two sides, place tape on one side to avoid cutting yourself. Good luck!

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David112008
Junior Member
18
04-19-2016, 09:44 AM
#3
That's understandable. It seems like you're having trouble finding confirmation.
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David112008
04-19-2016, 09:44 AM #3

That's understandable. It seems like you're having trouble finding confirmation.

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bubba2397
Junior Member
12
04-21-2016, 08:03 AM
#4
That was really shocking!
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bubba2397
04-21-2016, 08:03 AM #4

That was really shocking!

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63
04-21-2016, 09:55 AM
#5
I've made some adjustments to the text.
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flowerlover326
04-21-2016, 09:55 AM #5

I've made some adjustments to the text.

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bellaboost
Junior Member
32
04-23-2016, 08:03 AM
#6
Clean removal looks great! Using your thumbnail helps lift the adhesive from the PCB. For stubborn residue, a pencil eraser works well. If re-gluing is needed, place four dots in the outer corners and secure with a socket clamp. Pernatex ultra black is available at most automotive parts stores.
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bellaboost
04-23-2016, 08:03 AM #6

Clean removal looks great! Using your thumbnail helps lift the adhesive from the PCB. For stubborn residue, a pencil eraser works well. If re-gluing is needed, place four dots in the outer corners and secure with a socket clamp. Pernatex ultra black is available at most automotive parts stores.

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233
04-23-2016, 12:01 PM
#7
I cleaned it up using my ID. The A1 memory channel is now unusable, so it won’t be popular. I plan to turn it into an art piece, which is why I’m thankful for the epoxy removal tips.
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captainevan100
04-23-2016, 12:01 PM #7

I cleaned it up using my ID. The A1 memory channel is now unusable, so it won’t be popular. I plan to turn it into an art piece, which is why I’m thankful for the epoxy removal tips.

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master_scope
Posting Freak
794
04-23-2016, 04:09 PM
#8
For anyone trying this later, the outer parts can be trimmed off easily using a regular utility knife. The edge around the die is much finer and needs a very thin razor. I attached a new Shark shaving blade with a strip of pink duct tape to one of its edges, then slid it between the IHS and the daughterboard holding the die. After feeling sure I could cut enough material, I used a trigger pull clamp with one pad taken off. The PCB was placed on a rubber pad, and the unpadded side was lined up with the bottom of the IHS so the die stayed clear. Finally, I turned on the grip until the board flew across the room. Cleaning was quick—just used iso to remove the TIM and a charge card or fingernail to clear most of the epoxy.
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master_scope
04-23-2016, 04:09 PM #8

For anyone trying this later, the outer parts can be trimmed off easily using a regular utility knife. The edge around the die is much finer and needs a very thin razor. I attached a new Shark shaving blade with a strip of pink duct tape to one of its edges, then slid it between the IHS and the daughterboard holding the die. After feeling sure I could cut enough material, I used a trigger pull clamp with one pad taken off. The PCB was placed on a rubber pad, and the unpadded side was lined up with the bottom of the IHS so the die stayed clear. Finally, I turned on the grip until the board flew across the room. Cleaning was quick—just used iso to remove the TIM and a charge card or fingernail to clear most of the epoxy.