Did I alter all components except the CPU and could that be linked to the problems?
Did I alter all components except the CPU and could that be linked to the problems?
I am extremely frustrated and let down. I created a new setup to replace my eight-year-old configuration. Here are the components:
PCPartPicker Part List
Type
Item
Price
CPU
Intel Core i5-13600K 3.5 GHz 14-Core Processor
$259.95 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler
Deepcool AK620 68.99 CFM CPU Cooler
$54.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard
MSI PRO Z790-A MAX WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard
$239.99 @ Amazon
Memory
Corsair Vengeance RGB 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory
$239.99 @ Amazon
Storage
Silicon Power UD90 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive
$104.97 @ B&H
Storage
Seagate Exos X14 12 TB 3.5" 7200 RPM Internal Hard Drive
$188.99 @ Amazon
Video Card
EVGA FTW3 ULTRA GAMING LE iCX3 GeForce RTX 3080 Ti 12 GB Video Card
$550.00
Case
Lian Li O11 Vision ATX Mid Tower Case
$139.99 @ Adorama
Power Supply
Thermaltake Toughpower GF A3 Snow 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply
$144.44 @ Amazon
Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
Total
$1923.31
Generated by
PCPartPicker
2024-06-07 21:23 EDT-0400
I should mention that the RTX 3080 Ti was purchased used from Facebook Marketplace and I have no reason to doubt it is faulty, though I can't be certain. Everything fit together nicely, and Windows 11 was installed successfully. However, after a few days, tabs in Firefox would crash intermittently. Within another day or so they became constant, along with Discord (which uses a browser I believe) and SteamWebHelper.
I considered that my RAM OC might have caused file corruption over time, so I reinstalled Windows this time keeping everything original. It ran well for a while but gradually started to fail again, especially Firefox. I switched from Chrome to Firefox after tabs kept crashing. I suspected the SSD might be failing, so I reinstalled Windows using the old SSD from my previous build. The system crashed completely without a BSOD, and I could no longer boot. No display output was shown on either the DP or HDMI connectors on both boards, and all indicator LEDs on the motherboard turned off, including the boot LED even after disconnecting all drives.
MSI support suggested using q-flash+ to update the BIOS, which should have been compatible with my CPU. After that attempt failed, they asked for the exact RAM model I had installed. They explained that since it wasn't listed as compatible on their site, I needed different RAM. Based on some searches, this seemed like an overstatement—the models listed were only those tested by the company, not a true indicator of compatibility.
I chose to return the board to Amazon and purchase a GIGABYTE Z790 AORUS Pro X. It arrived today. After installing everything and trying to boot, there was still no display output, and the motherboard's VGA LED stayed on. I removed the GPU and used only the integrated graphics, but the VGA LED remained lit. I flashed multiple BIOS versions in hopes of a solution, but nothing worked. I tried swapping my RAM with the G.SKILL Trident Z5 from my girlfriend’s system, but it didn’t help. I also used the PSU they tested with before and didn’t make any changes. I’ve replaced every component I could find—RAM, GPU, PSU, motherboard, and an M.2 drive. There’s only one CPU left in stock that hasn’t changed, and I’ve re-seated all connectors on both boards. Can we really assume there’s a problem with my CPU?
At the upcoming successful restart:
Check Reliability History/Monitor and Event Viewer.
Both tools might record error codes, warnings, or event details just before or during crashes.
Will the build enter Safe Mode and function consistently?
This motherboard?
https://download.msi.com/archive/mnu_exe...-AWIFI.pdf
Make sure you have the correct User Guide.
Go through the entire guide to ensure all installed parts are compatible and set up properly. Focus on warnings and small details.
Notably regarding RAM:
According to the "Important" note on Page 27:
"Always insert memory modules in the DIMMA2 slot first."
Details matter.
Try clearing CMOS with RAM, GPU, and drives disconnected. Use CLR CMOS pins instead of removing the battery. Reassemble everything except the 3080ti to test if IGPU functions. It shouldn't matter the order in which the DIMM slots are installed before powering up, as long as RAM is in the right slots. Assigning slot 2 first would be for a single stick setup. This guide covers the basics manually.
Certainly try removing the CMOS if you're experiencing display problems. Refer to your motherboard manual for guidance.