F5F Stay Refreshed Hardware Desktop Device fails to start or initialize properly.

Device fails to start or initialize properly.

Device fails to start or initialize properly.

Pages (3): 1 2 3 Next
A
AJ663
Member
78
03-31-2020, 04:34 AM
#1
With each passing moment, the issue draws nearer. I'm unable to get the system to send a POST request. Here are the details: The setup includes a Spoiler ASUS P4C800-E Deluxe Pentium 4 HT at 3.4 GHz, a Prescott 1GB DDR 400, two 1GB DDR 400 modules, two 1x512MB DDR 400 units, a GeForce 6800 Ultra, an ATI 3D Rage II with DVD cooler, and a Silent Pro Gold 1000W cooler from Cooler Master. The motherboard was provided by @Bitter. I've been cooling the CPU using a stock LGA775 cooler and a fan mounted on top. Initially, when I tried to boot yesterday in my Lian Li PC-62, it failed. The symptoms were clear: after pressing power, the system would start, wait about ten seconds, then shut down completely with no beeps. When I switched to a DVI-A to VGA adapter with a VGA monitor, the same happened. Later, using a DVI-D to VGA adapter, it worked just fine. I spent several attempts replacing cables, RAM, power supplies, and even removed the board entirely to test with only a single 1GB DDR 400 stick and the Thermaltake PSU. Still no response. Eventually, I realized my fan was connected to the SYS_FAN1 header instead of the CPU_FAN header. After some time, I moved the fan and restarted it. The board still wouldn't power on. I then changed the GPU to a PCI 3D Rage II with VGA port, but it didn’t help. I tried a beeper speaker to check for any codes, but nothing came through. I also installed two 512MB DDR sticks, yet no signal appeared from the board. Around that time, I noticed a jumper was stuck over the CHASSIS header. I removed it and tried booting again. The keyboard lights flashed when turned off, similar to my P3 system after startup, but only briefly. Pressing NUMLOCK had no effect, suggesting the keyboard hadn’t initialized. I removed the small heatsink from two VRMs and restarted, but the problem persisted. I reset the CMOS multiple times using the jumper and removing the battery. Despite all these efforts, the system still powers on and then shuts down. I’m at a loss and hope someone can help me resolve this. Thank you for your time!
A
AJ663
03-31-2020, 04:34 AM #1

With each passing moment, the issue draws nearer. I'm unable to get the system to send a POST request. Here are the details: The setup includes a Spoiler ASUS P4C800-E Deluxe Pentium 4 HT at 3.4 GHz, a Prescott 1GB DDR 400, two 1GB DDR 400 modules, two 1x512MB DDR 400 units, a GeForce 6800 Ultra, an ATI 3D Rage II with DVD cooler, and a Silent Pro Gold 1000W cooler from Cooler Master. The motherboard was provided by @Bitter. I've been cooling the CPU using a stock LGA775 cooler and a fan mounted on top. Initially, when I tried to boot yesterday in my Lian Li PC-62, it failed. The symptoms were clear: after pressing power, the system would start, wait about ten seconds, then shut down completely with no beeps. When I switched to a DVI-A to VGA adapter with a VGA monitor, the same happened. Later, using a DVI-D to VGA adapter, it worked just fine. I spent several attempts replacing cables, RAM, power supplies, and even removed the board entirely to test with only a single 1GB DDR 400 stick and the Thermaltake PSU. Still no response. Eventually, I realized my fan was connected to the SYS_FAN1 header instead of the CPU_FAN header. After some time, I moved the fan and restarted it. The board still wouldn't power on. I then changed the GPU to a PCI 3D Rage II with VGA port, but it didn’t help. I tried a beeper speaker to check for any codes, but nothing came through. I also installed two 512MB DDR sticks, yet no signal appeared from the board. Around that time, I noticed a jumper was stuck over the CHASSIS header. I removed it and tried booting again. The keyboard lights flashed when turned off, similar to my P3 system after startup, but only briefly. Pressing NUMLOCK had no effect, suggesting the keyboard hadn’t initialized. I removed the small heatsink from two VRMs and restarted, but the problem persisted. I reset the CMOS multiple times using the jumper and removing the battery. Despite all these efforts, the system still powers on and then shuts down. I’m at a loss and hope someone can help me resolve this. Thank you for your time!

A
ATacticalCat_
Member
201
04-01-2020, 06:48 AM
#2
I checked the board for shorts and found some unusual connections. Everything linking to the northbridge seems to work together. There are two random RAM slot pins that connect, as well as two unrelated AGP slot pins. A PCI slot pin matches a RAM slot pin, and a few other pins also show continuity beeps. I noticed similar patterns with USB headers and DDR slots. It doesn’t seem like AGP and DDR pins are shorting together, but I’m not sure if there’s something obvious wrong or a major hardware issue.
A
ATacticalCat_
04-01-2020, 06:48 AM #2

I checked the board for shorts and found some unusual connections. Everything linking to the northbridge seems to work together. There are two random RAM slot pins that connect, as well as two unrelated AGP slot pins. A PCI slot pin matches a RAM slot pin, and a few other pins also show continuity beeps. I noticed similar patterns with USB headers and DDR slots. It doesn’t seem like AGP and DDR pins are shorting together, but I’m not sure if there’s something obvious wrong or a major hardware issue.

S
SuperScout345
Member
217
04-09-2020, 07:48 PM
#3
Updated #2: I returned to the 6800 Ultra and replaced my PhysX card. At first it emitted five short beeps. The manual only lists a sequence like 2, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 10—no five. That’s confusing. I checked again after restarting, but still no sound. Then I swapped in a 1TB WD Caviar Green with W8.1. Still nothing. Finally, I moved the card and installed my 3D Rage II +DVD, plugging the monitor into it. Still no response.
S
SuperScout345
04-09-2020, 07:48 PM #3

Updated #2: I returned to the 6800 Ultra and replaced my PhysX card. At first it emitted five short beeps. The manual only lists a sequence like 2, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 10—no five. That’s confusing. I checked again after restarting, but still no sound. Then I swapped in a 1TB WD Caviar Green with W8.1. Still nothing. Finally, I moved the card and installed my 3D Rage II +DVD, plugging the monitor into it. Still no response.

C
CreeperKaeKae
Junior Member
14
04-10-2020, 08:06 PM
#4
I believe the manual was included in the box with it. Beep continuity is a rough test, and those components could all be shared power rails on either the 5V or 3.3V rail or ground. Look at the pins you're using for beeping on the 20-pin header to see their connections. Also, make sure you're using a high-ohm computer-safe multimeter—just like for Pikachu!
C
CreeperKaeKae
04-10-2020, 08:06 PM #4

I believe the manual was included in the box with it. Beep continuity is a rough test, and those components could all be shared power rails on either the 5V or 3.3V rail or ground. Look at the pins you're using for beeping on the 20-pin header to see their connections. Also, make sure you're using a high-ohm computer-safe multimeter—just like for Pikachu!

D
De3r
Junior Member
25
04-10-2020, 08:53 PM
#5
They don’t have it right away, but ASUS provides PDFs for most manuals. I’ll check later. Dad is back and will share his thoughts too. Not sure what to expect, but I cleared the power just in case. I’ve been using it for similar tasks without any issues.
D
De3r
04-10-2020, 08:53 PM #5

They don’t have it right away, but ASUS provides PDFs for most manuals. I’ll check later. Dad is back and will share his thoughts too. Not sure what to expect, but I cleared the power just in case. I’ve been using it for similar tasks without any issues.

M
MrCurseful
Member
54
04-20-2020, 12:40 AM
#6
Alright, I guess I have the manual somewhere then but you got the IO plate so that's cool. I still really suspect dead caps, it's 20yrs old and from the era of cap plague. Not all bad caps swell on top, some push out the bottom. Some don't even show any external signs of failure but have failed electrically. You'll have to either try to force the board to spit out some beep codes, get a post code PCI/ISA card, or probe at things for the brief moments it's on. You can force some beep errors by trying to POST without RAM, CPU, maybe no keyboard. If it won't spit any beeps for errors then it's not even getting far enough into POST, it may be hitting a bad power rail from failed caps and halting there before it's even able to load BIOS into working memory to execute POST operations. I think I have that sequence right, I haven't ran through all this in a long time. Anyway, those POST code cards can be super useful! Also, don't feel bad. I've got a B450 matx Steel Legend with some pretty RGB on the south bridge that does not post, just lights up the pretty RGB. So I understand the frustrations, I really do.
M
MrCurseful
04-20-2020, 12:40 AM #6

Alright, I guess I have the manual somewhere then but you got the IO plate so that's cool. I still really suspect dead caps, it's 20yrs old and from the era of cap plague. Not all bad caps swell on top, some push out the bottom. Some don't even show any external signs of failure but have failed electrically. You'll have to either try to force the board to spit out some beep codes, get a post code PCI/ISA card, or probe at things for the brief moments it's on. You can force some beep errors by trying to POST without RAM, CPU, maybe no keyboard. If it won't spit any beeps for errors then it's not even getting far enough into POST, it may be hitting a bad power rail from failed caps and halting there before it's even able to load BIOS into working memory to execute POST operations. I think I have that sequence right, I haven't ran through all this in a long time. Anyway, those POST code cards can be super useful! Also, don't feel bad. I've got a B450 matx Steel Legend with some pretty RGB on the south bridge that does not post, just lights up the pretty RGB. So I understand the frustrations, I really do.

D
DuckManWoo
Member
103
04-24-2020, 01:26 AM
#7
I connected the speaker because it offers a vocal POST function that identifies issues. I removed the CPU to check its status. After turning it on, it reported no CPU installed. Once I installed the CPU and secured the heatsink, it still didn’t respond. When I removed the RAM, instead of the expected error message, it triggered a shutdown after about ten seconds. It seems there might be another problem. I’m unsure what to choose—should I stick with my current capacitors or try something different?
D
DuckManWoo
04-24-2020, 01:26 AM #7

I connected the speaker because it offers a vocal POST function that identifies issues. I removed the CPU to check its status. After turning it on, it reported no CPU installed. Once I installed the CPU and secured the heatsink, it still didn’t respond. When I removed the RAM, instead of the expected error message, it triggered a shutdown after about ten seconds. It seems there might be another problem. I’m unsure what to choose—should I stick with my current capacitors or try something different?

M
Mini_Muffin24
Member
179
04-29-2020, 11:02 AM
#8
Or try guessing one letter at a time or all at once and check if it works. If you need some practice boards, I have at least three available. One has burnt VRM and a few are old but still functional P3 models that work.
M
Mini_Muffin24
04-29-2020, 11:02 AM #8

Or try guessing one letter at a time or all at once and check if it works. If you need some practice boards, I have at least three available. One has burnt VRM and a few are old but still functional P3 models that work.

F
Fireman3789
Junior Member
2
04-29-2020, 01:51 PM
#9
badcaps.net offers an excellent discussion board—don’t miss it!
F
Fireman3789
04-29-2020, 01:51 PM #9

badcaps.net offers an excellent discussion board—don’t miss it!

S
Some_Dunkus
Member
190
04-29-2020, 03:50 PM
#10
It's an AMI bios. 5 beeps is a failed cpu.
S
Some_Dunkus
04-29-2020, 03:50 PM #10

It's an AMI bios. 5 beeps is a failed cpu.

Pages (3): 1 2 3 Next