Consider purchasing a ready-made PC or constructing one yourself?
Consider purchasing a ready-made PC or constructing one yourself?
Some initial observations about your list:
The cooler includes quality paste.
You can purchase the same SSD in a 4TB form for around $350.
There’s no change in performance and it simplifies managing a single drive.
Give the included fans a try first.
They are simple to replace later.
A 2100 RPM speed may be too loud.
Using two 140mm fans could reduce noise.
Is there a need for an SFX PSU when the case supports a full-sized one?
All the important questions. I had no idea what an SFX was... I just chose it because it had high ratings. Thanks for reviewing—I'm really new to this but thought I could handle it over a weekend with some YouTube guidance.
Perfectly, I'd prefer my build to look very neat and tidy, with a clean, eye-catching design (not just random colors). I want dark tinted glass and only white light inside the case, if any at all. How do the RGB lights get controlled on a custom PC? I've only used pre-built units before that came with software already installed.
Ideally, I'm planning to research more before making this decision, but I was checking out these links:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Corsair/comment..._air_5400/
https://www.reddit.com/r/Corsair/comment...8/finally/
https://www.reddit.com/r/Corsair/comment...400_build/
I didn't expect any fans to be included with these builds. I'll take a look, thank you!
SFX represents a smaller standard for a power supply unit.
ATX versus SFX versus SFX-L: Understanding Power Supply Formats and Dimensions
Power supplies are available in three primary sizes. This guide clarifies each option.
www.corsair.com
A complete ATX power supply features a bigger, quieter fan.
PSU tier ratings are subjective assessments of performance.
I consider the warranty period on these units as a fair measure of durability.
Twelve years is a respectable lifespan, while ten years offers a decent balance.
The main drawback of an excessively powerful unit is its price.
A power supply only draws the amount of power it needs, not more than it can handle.
A more robust PSU might run at full capacity in the most efficient part of its range. On a quality model, the fan may even remain off.
Seasonic vertex PX-1000 is a solid choice:
https://www.newegg.com/seasonic-usa...6817151267&cm_sp=product-_-from-price-options
Choosing a case is personal. Select one that looks appealing to you—it will stay with you for years.
I’ve previously used Lian li cases, which are of high quality.
Check out the lancool216RX:
https://www.newegg.com/lian-li-atx-...ss...000Z-000A8
It performs well with air cooling.
The included 160mm fans provide ample airflow without noise.
For more details about a case, read reviews or obtain the manual.
I would like to express my deepest gratitude for all your assistance so far. I’ve implemented many of the changes you recommended, except for the power supply—since I opted for the Corsair model, which was roughly $100 less. I’m planning to take the next step and assemble my own system. This was a project I tackled about 25 years ago; recalling it, I had to remove the pins from the back of the HDDs to configure master/slave settings.
I’m nearing completion and just want to double-check a few points. The final cost should be around $3k or $3.5k once I replace one of the video cards, which seems reasonable given the adjustments. Could you advise whether it’s better to downgrade or drop any components?
What distinguishes the two graphics options in my build, and do you prefer one over the other? Both are expected to be available soon. I’ve heard the Aorus cards are of high quality, but I’m not sure if there’s a significant difference that justifies the price jump.
Regarding memory, I’m considering whether to keep the differences between CL30, CL32, and CL36. I might go for the standard look and would appreciate removing the liquid cooler in favor of a regular fan. I’m also thinking about switching to the case you suggested—Lian Li O11 Vision ATX Mid Tower—and the Corsair AIR 5400 RS-R.
Are there any extra items I should add, such as cables? The build guide mentioned using cables from Asiahorse for the PSU; what would that be, and is it necessary?
How significant are the differences between CL30, CL32, and CL36 RAM? I might purchase a bundle at MicroCenter, but I’m unsure if it’s worth it compared to the recommended parts.
Speaking of sound cards, do you still need one? I currently use the Logitech Pro X2 Lightspeed wireless headset.
More thoughts:
1. The basic processor for both cards come from the same place, namely Nvidia.
A vendor may apply more or less overclocking to one or the other.
One cooler or the other might be better.
I have no preference, and would probably pick the cheaper one.
But, find a review of each and look at what they say.
2. Perhaps just me but unless you are an overclocker, I would go with an air cooler.
Games will not effectively use more than half the 16 processing threads of the R7-9800X3D.
Even under load, the heat generation is not excessive .
Noctua maintains a list of suitable air coolers for many processors.
Here is their list for the R7-9800X3D:
https://www.noctua.at/en/compatibility/b...3d#details
. I have used the Noctua NHd15s for many years.
https://www.newegg.com/noctua-nh-d15s-ch...0005-002Y6
It costs less than the aio you picked and will last forever.
It is also very easy to mount.
3. Use ONLY the cables that come with your PSU. Aftermarket cables may not work as well.
4. With ryzen, be very careful about ram compatibility. Not all seemingly compatible ram will work properly.
Pick a ram kit from the motherboard ram QVL support list.
Or, go to G.skil or another vendor and access their ram support list.
Pick a 2 stick kit that is explicitly supported for both your cpu and your motherboard. Do not count on part picker; do your own verification.
Ryzen performs better with fast ram.
At any given ram speed, lower timings are better(and more expensive)
5. Try the included sound first. It is very good these days.
If you are an audiophile with high end speakers, you can always add a sound card later.
They can be tricky.
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Some time ago, I make a list of my build process. It may help you.
MY build process:
Before anything, while waiting for your parts to be delivered, download
and read, cover to cover your case and motherboard manual.
Buy a long #2 magnetic tip philips screwdriver.
A small led flashlight is also useful.
I find it handy to buy a power switch like this for testing.
https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16812119009...tion=power switch&cm_re=power_switch-_-12-119-009-_-Product&quicklink=true
1. I assemble the critical parts outside of the case.
That lets me test them for functionality easily.
A wood table or cardboard is fine.
2. Plug in only the necessary parts at first. Ram, cpu, cooler, psu.
Do not force anything. Parts fit only one way.
Attach a monitor to the integrated motherboard adapter if you have one, otherwise to the graphics card.
3. If your motherboard does not have a PWR button, momentarily touch the two pwr front panel pins with a flat blade screwdriver.
4. Repeatedly hit F2 or DEL, and that should get you into the bios display.
5. Boot from a cd or usb stick with memtest86 on it. memtest will exercise your ram and cpu functionality. memtest86 is sometimes included in a bios app.
They boot from a usb stick and do not use windows.
You can download them here:
MemTest86 - Official Site of the x86 Memory Testing Tool
MemTest86 is the original self booting memory testing software for x86 and ARM computers. Supporting both BIOS and UEFI, with options to boot from USB.
www.memtest86.com
Memtest86+ | The Open-Source Memory Testing Tool
Memtest86+ is an advanced, free, open-source, stand-alone memory tester for 32- and 64-bit computers (UEFI & BIOS supported)
www.memtest.org
If you can run a full pass with NO errors, your ram should be ok.
Running several more passes will sometimes uncover an issue, but it takes more time.
Probably not worth it unless you really suspect a ram issue.
Opinions vary on updating the bios.
Normally, one does not update a bios unless there is a fix for something that is impacting you. I violate this rule on a new build and will update to currency up front.
Use the usb option, not the windows option.
If there is a severe problem, the impact is small.
6. Install windows.
7. Install the motherboard cd drivers. Particularly the lan drivers so you can access the internet.
Do not select the easy install option, or you will get a bunch of utilities and trialware that you don't want. Drivers only.
7. Connect to the internet and install an antivirus program. Microsoft defender is free, easy, and unobtrusive.
8. Install your graphics card and driver if you tested with integrated graphics.
You will need to remove the graphics card later to install your motherboard in the case.
As a tip when screwing the motherboard into the posts, give the screw a small counterclockwise turn until you feel a click.
That lets you know that the screw will engage properly.
Make a note of how the graphics card latches into the pcie slot.
The mechanism will be hidden under the card and may be difficult to work if you have not previously checked how.
9. Update windows to currency.
10. Only now do I take apart what I need to and install it in the case.
11. Now is the time to reinstall your graphics card.
One of my coworkers who mainly plays WoW asked for some tips on upgrading his PC. After some investigation, I discovered that due to the game's reliance on CPU rather than GPU, upgrading the graphics card won't help much—even a 5090 won't make a big difference. However, it turns out the game benefits from extra cache on X3D CPUs, which is a good approach since it can noticeably boost performance in this title.
For Cyberpunk, a 3080 Ti should work fine without any problems. I own a 4080 and can achieve 4K at maximum settings with full ray tracing (no path tracing) at 100 fps when using dlss set to quality and frame generation. Check your configurations. Unless you attempt native 4K rendering with ray tracing, you should see more than 30 frames per second.
Although the CPU tends to get extremely hot during gameplay (my temperatures rarely exceed 50°C, which is impressive), most modern games require shader compilation at launch and after driver updates, causing the chip to overheat. If I don't undervolt it, my 360 AIO can hit over 90°C during shader compilation.
WoW really demands a lot from the CPU. The top choice for boosting performance is upgrading the processor. Concerning Cyberpunk, I faced some issues getting it to run smoothly—it even crashed several times. I plan to experiment with it tonight. I managed to play it before, but never in detail mode (please don’t check my Steam library).
I was planning to buy a laptop rather than a new desktop and ended up getting a Lenovo Legion 9i. It’s decent, but playing on the couch isn’t the same as working from an office with a complete setup.
The only thing holding me back right now is the price—$3,500—and the fact that a pre-built unit with the Ryzen 9950X3D and double the RAM costs just $500 more. I’m still weighing my options but have printed out my list and might visit Microcenter tomorrow morning.
Regarding your inquiry about sound cards today, they are not necessary.
Using a sound card does improve audio quality.
I explored this topic using a Sound Blaster AE-5 Plus.
Looking back, I could have chosen an external DAC instead. This would separate the DAC from the noise produced by the motherboard. However, I didn’t encounter any problems with the internal DAC.
With the AE-5, the audio experience is richer, more spacious, and clearer, though it still depends on the speakers you have.
If your speakers are low quality, a DAC isn’t worth the investment.
The results vary depending on the headphones you use.
A USB-connected headset includes its own DAC, so sound quality is affected by the dongle.
A 3.5mm headset will rely on the motherboard’s codec or a separate DAC if available.
Open-back versus closed-back headphones also matter; open-back offers a broader soundstage and is better for gaming.
For headphones, 3D audio effects can be simulated in Windows using Windows Sonic—a free tool that replicates Dolby.
The AE-5 includes Dolby encoders, but activating them costs $15 for up to 10 devices.
In Windows, you now have two choices: Windows Sonic or Dolby.
Currently, with Logitech Z625 2.1 speakers and the SB AE-5, there’s no static when no sound is playing, unlike the motherboard audio which often has background noise. This is especially noticeable at higher volumes.
For gaming, I use Sennheiser s506 and Blackshark V2 headsets. The Sennheiser delivers great sound but lacks a microphone, while the Blackshark V2 provides good audio and a mic when needed.
Whether you need a sound card depends on your preferences.
Just wanted to say thank you so much to everyone who helped out with this. I have a brand new PC sitting next to me that I think is going to be absolutely great. I've listed it's specifications below of what exactly I ended up getting.
A few quick notes. Firstly, I had originally decided to go down to a 5070 Ti but Micro Center had an Asus 5080 Prime Overclocked on sale for $1000 so I went ahead with that as a card. I absolutely splurged on the case and some of the accessories, but really happy with how it turned out and how it looks.
The processor had a deal with the motherboard that was cheaper than a large amount of the B850 motherboards so went that route as well (combo came out to about $500).
I was able to get out the door for $3,021.36 plus tax. The case is stunning! I also found a Lian Li 8.8" LCD screen that I mounted inside the case that was open box for $65 which is awesome!
PCPartPicker Part List
CPU:
AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D 4.7 GHz 8-Core Processor
($454.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler:
Lian Li Hydroshift II LCD-C TL 90.1 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
($229.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard:
MSI PRO X870E-P WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard
($235.00 @ Amazon)
Memory:
Klevv CRAS V RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory
($296.99 @ Amazon)
Storage:
SK Hynix Platinum P41 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive
($249.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card:
Asus PRIME OC GeForce RTX 5080 16 GB Video Card
($1290.99 @ Amazon)
Case:
Lian Li O11D EVO RGB ATX Mid Tower Case
($159.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply:
Lian Li EDGE GOLD 1200 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply
($294.22 @ Amazon)
Case Fan:
Lian Li UNI FAN SL-INF Wireless 69.7 CFM 120 mm Fans 3-Pack
($104.99 @ Amazon - OOS)
Case Fan:
Lian Li UNI FAN SL-INF Wireless 69.7 CFM 120 mm Fans 3-Pack
($104.99 @ Amazon - OOS)
Total:
$3421.15
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by
PCPartPicker
2025-12-09 02:33 EST-0500