Comparing WiFi and Ethernet over powerline offers different performance and setup options.
Comparing WiFi and Ethernet over powerline offers different performance and setup options.
I reside in a vintage home constructed in the 1960s. It relies on fuses rather than circuit breakers. This house boasts a distinctive trait: it was designed by an Electrical Engineer (former owner), and its internal wiring lacks standard copper specifications found in modern homes. The installation is notably overbuilt—wires exceed the thickness required back then. An electrician offered to completely rewire for free, capitalizing on the valuable copper content, which we politely rejected. This matters because appliances like refrigerators or microwaves don’t affect lighting levels, indicating a different electrical layout. We even possess several 15-amp circuits capable of handling more than 25 amps simply due to wiring thickness—though that’s a side note. The house features a dedicated room for internet access. Cable COAX enters via the street, passes through walls to the modem, and our VOIP line extends outward, looping back outside the property. The phone sits roughly 30 feet from the modem, but the cable stretches about 300 feet due to its external path. My goal is relocating computers to my bedroom, positioned at the far end of the house. I prefer keeping the modem and router in place because rerouting the landline would be impractical, and the existing router offers solid coverage for most areas, especially since it’s mounted in a closet near the ceiling—minimizing space use. There isn’t a continuous roof structure; there are attics at both ends with an open central roof section. The only viable choices appear to be Ethernet over Powerline or WiFi. The current Netgear Wireless N dual-band router struggles with 1080p video, while the older 2.4GHz model provides decent performance but lags. Websites load quickly, but streaming in 1080p isn’t feasible. Which method will deliver better results? I’m contemplating moving my Haswell server to a new setup, placing my printer and 3D printer near my existing computers for occasional remote access. I’m also thinking about using a laptop as a gaming server, streaming games via external monitor over the LAN.
Well, powerline could work, you'd just have to experiment (you can buy kits for as little as $50 so they're not that expensive). You may get higher throughput (raw transfer speed) but possibly higher latency and sometimes hiccups - if you read lots of reviews about powerline devices you'll read about issues like this. Think if you can maybe route some flat ethernet cable along the walls or under carpets or along the top corners of the rooms - here's an example of a 50ft flat ethernet cable : https://www.amazon.com/Cat-Ethernet-Cabl...00WD017GQ/ and here's the black version : https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Internet...06XXH72SZ/ You can either tape the cable to stay in place or maybe use some plastic cable ties or something to lock it in place along the length... you could use raceway / plastic channel things to put cable within in areas where someone may step on the cable and break it example : https://www.amazon.com/D-Line-Raceway-Pa...07KFNYR7G/ Another option would be to squeeze some fiber along the power cable or through the roof somehow ... the connectors are big but the fiber cable itself is small and legally would be acceptable to route it along power cables because it's just light going through fiber glass, no low voltage wires. Problem is finding someone to install the connectors on fiber after you route the fiber where you want it, equipment to install connectors is expensive.
Considering a premium Wi-Fi 6 mesh setup with multiple indoor nodes works well. I tend to prefer hardwiring connections.
They offer WAPs based on area measurements. At work I often handle around 10,000 square feet of space. For individuals, simply search online to determine your current size and adjust accordingly. The largest option available for a home user appears to be the ASUS model covering 5,000 square feet. I noticed a NightHawk AX6 priced at 3,500 sq ft, but it seems you should disable the DDOS protection on those devices... It might be worth considering another brand.
I recommend avoiding any one AP and relying on it alone. For home use, raw performance is a mixed bag—Netgear Orbi line impresses but costs a lot. Older Wi-Fi 5 setups were budget-friendly, yet even basic 2-node Wi-Fi 6 systems start around $700 and go up to $1500 for a 5-pack. These systems support about 5000 sq. ft. The Orbi model stands out because it uses its own backhaul radio to connect nodes without draining client bandwidth. They also offer a Wi-Fi 6E version, though it’s pricier. Overall, it’s powerful when used correctly.
I'm curious about how much depends on the wiring and how much on the tech itself. I'm open to trying it, but my choices are limited to outlet options: there are just two power sockets in the bedroom, both sharing the same socket. The other outlets aren't grounded, missing the third prong. The router/modem is in a room with two usable outlets that seem logical. I don’t have ethernet cabling running through the kitchen floor, and there’s no crawl space under the modem room. If I wanted to run Ethernet, I’d have to drill holes in the walls, dig outside, and bring the cable back in.
The biggest issue with WiFi is that I don’t have devices supporting WiFi 6. The most advanced ones here only use WiFi N, at best. Plus, metal in the walls and nearby neighbors using microwaves, cordless phones, etc., make the 2.4GHz band ineffective. The 5GHz band is heavily congested, and the walls block it well. There’s no central spot in the house for a range extender either. I could still make it work, but it would be frustrating.