Check the motherboard or CPU.
Check the motherboard or CPU.
Hello everyone, here we are again—ASUS Crosshair v8 WiFi (all setup done with the latest BIOS installed, around late March 2024). Here’s what I’ve got:
- 5900X with ASUS crosshair v8 WiFi (WiFi enabled)
- Ekwb waterblock made for the board, covering VRMs and CPU (only 4 screws, not easy to remove)
- 4x Corsair Vengeance 18@3600, 16GB each (QVL fine)
- Side note: 4x 16@3200 16GB sticks, Nighthawks by TeamForce
- DOCP didn’t work (non-QVL), so I swapped ems a while back—no issues, just mentioned having spares
- ASUS 4090 with custom waterblock – XFX 6700 18@3200, 16GB custom block
- PCI 1x to 16x riser, USB 3.0 (still unused ATM but plugged in)
- Quadro 4000 RTX
- More fans than necessary, all fans are Thermaltake models, high-end/expensive
- No RGB; 2500/3000 RPM peak at 120s and 140s
- Thermal solution: DC5 pump with 500ml reservoir (for redundancy, helps the pump cycle water)
- Quadra 4000 RXT
- More radiators than needed
- All fans are Thermaltake – high-end/expensive
- No RGB, either 2500/3000 RPM peak at 120s and 140s
- Thermal solution: DC5 pump with 500ml reservoir (for redundancy)
- Another DC5 pump connected to drain ports on top radiator (420mmx60mm) with separate 1L reservoir – for backup and to help the pump cycle water
- PSU: ASUS 1500W PLATINUM, Corsair
- Only powering the motherboard, CPU (aux CPU), and 4090
- Powering the Molex for the TT pump only
- Best brand for critical components: “gamemax” 1050W Bronze
- Used PSUs: Seasonic 1000W Bronze, only powering the motherboard, CPU, and 4090
- PSU swap: Swapped Corsair power lines for the correct ones – a bit of a hassle
- PSUs plugged directly into outlets, each with separate breakers (no tripping yet)
- 2x Samsung 980 Ti NVMe, 2023 model, made in Korea/Vietnam
- Had 2021 variants that didn’t update firmware promptly – drives would fail if not updated
- EU version available (better than US? Not sure), need 12/10 gauge power cables per wire
- Thermal solution: PSU swap, thermal take TT71 view – everything disassembled to a skeleton
- PSU swap reason: Needed 2x PSUs for redundancy and better cooling
- PSU specs: Seasonic 1500W PLATINUM, Corsair
- Powered GPU top to bottom (as per notes)
- Issue: Q-code reads 00, can’t flash BIOS via USB (no POST light)
- What might have happened: I was overclocking the CPU recently
- Monitoring: Used Cinebench R23/AIDA64 (prime95?) and HWinfo for core voltages, temps, etc.
- Notes: Handwriting Cinebench scores, hashrates, voltages/temps
- BIOS: All stock except a few minor tweaks; SVM, 4G decoding, RAID disabled
- Power settings: Extreme mode, 120% CPU, 140% DRAM
- Notes: 8x SSDs, fan hub, video cards… (see below)
- Power cables: 12/10 gauge, positive/negative/ground per wire
- PSU specs: EU version (better than US? Not sure)
- Power cable: 12V, 24W rating
- PSU location: Inside case – PSUs plugged directly into outlets, separate breakers per outlet
- GPU placement: Installed top to bottom as mentioned
- Problem: Q-code 00, no POST, crashes at 4600MHz (cores not adjustable)
- Scored: ~20100 Cinebench, 0.0089 hashrate (may be outdated)
- Notes: Tried 43x power, lowered voltage by 2 increments, finally stabilized at 4600MHz
- Restarting: Stable after adjustment
- Monitor: Monitor went blank on login, GPU activated after “dos” image, desktop as usual
- FPS: ~1.2v average per core
- Next steps: Increase voltage gradually, test with higher voltages if safe
Need more info: What exactly was the issue? Did you try different BIOS versions? Any clues on the motherboard model or PSU type?
Thanks!
the board is in bad shape and seems to be stuck from trying to reset the BIOS or the BIOS might have crashed itself. it’s likely a motherboard problem, not just a CPU or GPU issue. you’d probably need to power down the CPU or unplug it completely to clear this error, which is why you’re seeing 00. this code usually points to a motherboard fault, possibly due to a disconnected CPU or a faulty chipset. buying multiple CPUs isn’t helping here, as these older boards are designed for specific configurations. if you try to save the BIOS, use a ch341a chipset with female jumper switches. you can usually reflash the BIOS through an unmarked SPI header near the left side of the socket labeled 1331. as a last resort, remove everything except the heatsink, reset the CMOS, turn off power briefly, and let it dry. sometimes boards fail because of dirt or accidental damage—especially after a reset that causes voltage spikes. if it keeps failing, it might be beyond repair.
CPU and RAM seated first ensures BIOS comes out first. Set up both BIOS next time if available. If one appears blank, use the USB and locate the read spot. Hope CPU wasn't affected by overheating or overclocking. I used dual BIOS boards—mobile version and UEFI blue one—and both can be overclocked.
Can a mobile device display output or bios without a CPU? That’s the question. It might not be straightforward—making sure you clearly define what you mean by “safe” and programming both bios properly is important. Just because something has been updated doesn’t mean it’s ready to run without a processor.
Checked up on the cha341, seems like a USB dongle. Basic idea is it powers the board but doesn’t flash data under normal USB use—they don’t actually write anything. If it were dirty, water might help, but boards usually need more than just moisture. Burned components or short circuits seem more likely. I’m pretty sure it’s not just a smell issue; physical damage would make sense. If I need to flash a UART manually, testing with a voltmeter pin by pin could reveal problems. It’s possible I’ll have to disassemble it all just to figure out what’s wrong.
You link it to a laptop or similar device using female jumper wires and connect it to the unmarked SPI header I mentioned. This is the process for reflashing and uploading via UART. The header you're referring to is likely the SPI interface, which communicates with the microcontroller. Since you're new to UART, it might have seemed confusing at first, but it's a standard method. You don't need to desolder unless you're replacing components; otherwise, check the adapter board compatibility with your new BIOS chips.